Chains, especially smaller gauge ones can stretch a lot from you put them on,
they are not a fit and forget item, they need constant monitoring and tightening,
they also need loosening as when they cool down they will shrink and pull tightly
against the bearing in the saw, that destroys the bearing, it can flat spot it and causing
it to slide instead of roll, that wont go on for long until you are in trouble.
Also, use a good brand of chain, I think Stihl make a chain that will fit that saw, so do Husqvarna.
I turn my chain over every three tanks, I carry a tooth brush small enough to slide in above the chain
and pull / push the sawdust and dirt out, then I work from the bottom and back to clean the area all out,
then I loosen the nuts, remove the cover and clean it before removing the bar and cleaning it / the mating surfaces,
again the tooth brush does all this in a couple of swipes,, then I few pulls down the bar rails from nose to tail with
a small piece of wire I bend onto the tooth brush by drilling a hole in the brush, this takes all takes a minute or so to do.
Bars need turned, and chains need rotated in use too, the second time / after six tanks I will use a new different chain,
on that bar, I will not use the chain off my identical saw, I keep them apart so I know when something goes wrong its
related to a particular saw, setup, unless I damage a chain and have no choice.
As mentioned already, cutting style can be a cause of throwing chains especially in certain cutting environments,
small twigs will get in and send your chin off, this too puts incredible strain on your saws bearings.
A bigger saw with longer bar can soak up some of the stress but a smaller one will stretch the chain and pull badly
against the bearings in the process.
With the info posted in this thread, you will be better able to spot the danger signs in regard to derailing
chains, when it all comes together the light will come on, you will see things you did not before,
like riding a bicycle, its hard to forget.
