The Shooters Apprentice
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep, found it. There is a few live versions of the show on YouTube as well.
Jackyl - The lumberjack 1992
Jackyl - The lumberjack 1992
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Hahaha "when I Jack my lumber
I couldn't get a look at the silvery saw but pretty sure the other was a homelite.
Actually quite cool how he used the brake to play the saw
I couldn't get a look at the silvery saw but pretty sure the other was a homelite.
Actually quite cool how he used the brake to play the saw
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
Today was a big day for me, since I just replaced my first set of crank seals. I feel a bit foolish for putting it off for so long, because it turned out to be easier than I expected.
Of course, I absorbed all the knowledge on the subject that I could before actually doing it. I can't imagine trying to do it(and many other things) without knowing all the little tricks from people who have decades worth of experience.
For this 3800, I made myself one of those little soda can sleeves to guide the seal on. I made sure to round off the sharp ends. Then I lightly oiled the inside of the seal before putting it into place on the crank with the sleeve, where I then decided to do what some have done and brush on a light film of blue threadlocker on the outside, since there was some mag rot close to the clutch side seal and I want to make sure there's no issues there.
Took an appropriate deep socket and tapped it in as close to the original depth as I could, then I carefully twisted out my soda can sleeve. You can see my results, does it look correct? Hope I put these in properly, we'll know soon enough I guess.
Interestingly, I noticed when I removed the flywheel side seal that there was a lot of wet grime underneath, which I cleaned out before putting the new seal in. This is the side I theorized had the main leak when I first got this saw doing the tilt test. Does all that filth confirm it?
Of course, I absorbed all the knowledge on the subject that I could before actually doing it. I can't imagine trying to do it(and many other things) without knowing all the little tricks from people who have decades worth of experience.
For this 3800, I made myself one of those little soda can sleeves to guide the seal on. I made sure to round off the sharp ends. Then I lightly oiled the inside of the seal before putting it into place on the crank with the sleeve, where I then decided to do what some have done and brush on a light film of blue threadlocker on the outside, since there was some mag rot close to the clutch side seal and I want to make sure there's no issues there.
Took an appropriate deep socket and tapped it in as close to the original depth as I could, then I carefully twisted out my soda can sleeve. You can see my results, does it look correct? Hope I put these in properly, we'll know soon enough I guess.
Interestingly, I noticed when I removed the flywheel side seal that there was a lot of wet grime underneath, which I cleaned out before putting the new seal in. This is the side I theorized had the main leak when I first got this saw doing the tilt test. Does all that filth confirm it?
The Shooters Apprentice
Addicted to ArboristSite
In the live shows he used a Stihl Farm Boss
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
On a side note, could someone please point me in the direction of an air filter, either aftermarket or NOS, that will actually fit a 3800?
I finally checked an aftermarket filter by Forester that I recently bought for this, since the original air filter is completely worn out.
Looked fine, except it's way too big and doesn't even come close to fitting. I tried trimming it down and bending it to as closely match the original as possible, I got it really close but I don't trust it for doing any cutting with.
I finally checked an aftermarket filter by Forester that I recently bought for this, since the original air filter is completely worn out.
Looked fine, except it's way too big and doesn't even come close to fitting. I tried trimming it down and bending it to as closely match the original as possible, I got it really close but I don't trust it for doing any cutting with.
If you got it to fit it will be as good as any really. Id just use it
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Agree. The original filters aren't that good at keeping sawdust out. Just check your filter often and you'll be fine.
MK I just bought 2 new air filters 34-38 and they were like 14 shipped for pair. Stens branded.
Jackyl - the lumberjack
Well it seems after digging into my newly acquired Poulan 5500...It's broken. Not a happy camper about it.
Sounds like time to contact @srcarr52
Must be the time for guys unloading cracked saws without telling buyers. 
Should see the 2 badboys a guy just bought. 1 the back half of crankcase behind fly wheel cracked and can be removed. The whole section.
He posted the pics on the chainsaw repair group. I'll go grab pic.
Going to offer him a crankcase to fix.
Should see the 2 badboys a guy just bought. 1 the back half of crankcase behind fly wheel cracked and can be removed. The whole section.
He posted the pics on the chainsaw repair group. I'll go grab pic.
Going to offer him a crankcase to fix.
Dang he said both were broken there. So spilt more.
Also split a 3000 for a guy for a pto side.
Also split a 3000 for a guy for a pto side.
Wildman, I guess not. That's truly unfortunate. I have to ask what you think caused this: cumulative use over time or a drop on a hard surface? Any other signs of damage? Will the location of the crack(s) affect compression? Will it take a replacement case half or can it be mended? No matter the course, good luck. Max.
I think it was abuse from use. The saw is absolutely filthy and packed with sap and saw chips. It also had a large bow bar on it.
I'll probably just swap the case half to a good one. Unfortunately it will probably be orange but such is life.
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
I've had a bit of a clown show with my 3800 the past couple days. 
After I got the new crank seals in and reassembled everything together for a quick test, I got it started and immediately noticed the difference that the new seals made. Made a small adjustment to the carb/idle and it was idling beautifully, even after letting it sit for several minutes getting warmed up.
All was well, until I decided to try getting some cuts in with it. Almost immediately I was back into the land of pain and suffering with the carb settings being constantly off. It was like I was right back to where I was before putting in new crank seals.
It wasn't until I got frustrated and turned the saw off to seat the hi/lo jets in to start over that I realized what was going on. The lo jet that I set at 1 turn out? It took 2 and 1/4 to turn it back on. The hi was 1 3/4.
The carb screws were vibrating out on their own.
I had this happen to me with my Mac 10-10A after I ran its carb through my ultrasonic cleaner. You could stand there, rev the saw and watch the dumb things turn out.
No big deal, I just put a drop or two of blue threadlocker on each one, set it to 1 lo, 1 1/8 hi and let it sit overnight.
The following day, I got the saw started again and everything was wonderful. The hi jet needed to be turned out just a tiny more, but once I did that I cut a full tank worth of fuel with no issues at all. Runs great, cuts great. Nice firewood saw.
But, of course, after I fueled it up again was when the plastic starter pulley decided to crap out on me. I hadn't noticed it before, but the teeth or whatever that grab hold of the starter pawls were all worn down. Worn to the point that when you give a strong pull, the pawls just slip and chew up the teeth even further.
So that's where I'm at now. 3800 is back to being dead in the water until I can get my hands on one of those pulleys. How's that for bad luck?
After I got the new crank seals in and reassembled everything together for a quick test, I got it started and immediately noticed the difference that the new seals made. Made a small adjustment to the carb/idle and it was idling beautifully, even after letting it sit for several minutes getting warmed up.
All was well, until I decided to try getting some cuts in with it. Almost immediately I was back into the land of pain and suffering with the carb settings being constantly off. It was like I was right back to where I was before putting in new crank seals.
It wasn't until I got frustrated and turned the saw off to seat the hi/lo jets in to start over that I realized what was going on. The lo jet that I set at 1 turn out? It took 2 and 1/4 to turn it back on. The hi was 1 3/4.
The carb screws were vibrating out on their own.
I had this happen to me with my Mac 10-10A after I ran its carb through my ultrasonic cleaner. You could stand there, rev the saw and watch the dumb things turn out.
No big deal, I just put a drop or two of blue threadlocker on each one, set it to 1 lo, 1 1/8 hi and let it sit overnight.
The following day, I got the saw started again and everything was wonderful. The hi jet needed to be turned out just a tiny more, but once I did that I cut a full tank worth of fuel with no issues at all. Runs great, cuts great. Nice firewood saw.
But, of course, after I fueled it up again was when the plastic starter pulley decided to crap out on me. I hadn't noticed it before, but the teeth or whatever that grab hold of the starter pawls were all worn down. Worn to the point that when you give a strong pull, the pawls just slip and chew up the teeth even further.
So that's where I'm at now. 3800 is back to being dead in the water until I can get my hands on one of those pulleys. How's that for bad luck?
Wildman you are better off replacing the case half if you can find one. That would be a real bear to weld back up and have it look good. It could be done but just a bunch of work.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Does ur Lo and HI sneedles have the springs on them? They shouldn't self adjust. Starter pulleys are difficult to find esp. the 3400 style. Good luckI've had a bit of a clown show with my 3800 the past couple days.
After I got the new crank seals in and reassembled everything together for a quick test, I got it started and immediately noticed the difference that the new seals made. Made a small adjustment to the carb/idle and it was idling beautifully, even after letting it sit for several minutes getting warmed up.
All was well, until I decided to try getting some cuts in with it. Almost immediately I was back into the land of pain and suffering with the carb settings being constantly off. It was like I was right back to where I was before putting in new crank seals.
It wasn't until I got frustrated and turned the saw off to seat the hi/lo jets in to start over that I realized what was going on. The lo jet that I set at 1 turn out? It took 2 and 1/4 to turn it back on. The hi was 1 3/4.
The carb screws were vibrating out on their own.
I had this happen to me with my Mac 10-10A after I ran its carb through my ultrasonic cleaner. You could stand there, rev the saw and watch the dumb things turn out.
No big deal, I just put a drop or two of blue threadlocker on each one, set it to 1 lo, 1 1/8 hi and let it sit overnight.
The following day, I got the saw started again and everything was wonderful. The hi jet needed to be turned out just a tiny more, but once I did that I cut a full tank worth of fuel with no issues at all. Runs great, cuts great. Nice firewood saw.
But, of course, after I fueled it up again was when the plastic starter pulley decided to crap out on me. I hadn't noticed it before, but the teeth or whatever that grab hold of the starter pawls were all worn down. Worn to the point that when you give a strong pull, the pawls just slip and chew up the teeth even further.
So that's where I'm at now. 3800 is back to being dead in the water until I can get my hands on one of those pulleys. How's that for bad luck?
I found a "Orange" case half. Saw will look funny but at least be back to usable and complete. Would rather have it be mix matched colors then not usable at all.
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
They do along with the little rubber thing that fits over both of them, but they don't seem to exert that much force.
I think the issue is that the ultrasonic cleaner gets things so clean and spotless that if there's been any wear to the threads at all, they're much more likely to start backing out even under pressure without all the old "structural" grime and oil coating the threads.
I've gotten in the habit of putting a tiny drop of blue threadlocker on the needle threads every time I run a carb through the ultrasonic, but I forgot to do that on this one.
Similar threads
