Stihl 024AV will not idle

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Michiganman09

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Howdy, I've got an early Pre commie collapse West German manufactured model 024AV. Bought it in a no start condition. I replaced the plug, fuel line and filter, and reset the carb to factory H & L settings. I ran it a few times and it ran good while cutting but would idle rough an die frequently, even with the idle set screwed all the way in. It eventually got worse and would not idle at all so I rebuilt the Whalbro carb, pulled off and cleaned the muffler (piston, ring, and cylinder wall looked ok and not scorched or scoured as far as I could tell) and put a new impulse line on it, no change would run on choke and WOT but not idle at all even with several H & L adjustments. I replaced the carb with an aftermarket replacement and saw acted exactly the same. My next step is to spray a little carb cleaner on the crankshaft seals and see if the engine revs and one or both seal is bad. Does anybody have any tips or advice or anything else I should look for. I'm pretty new to chainsaw and small engine repair so any advice would be welcomed. I don't have any tool to test compression or vacuum yet.

Thanks,
 
Crankseals dead is highly likely - Get yourself the oem gasket kit, It includes all the gaskets and the seals:
Partnumber: 1121 007 1050
 
Update on the 024AV: I tore the saw down again and noticed significant piston scoring on the exhaust outlet side and certain she will need a top end rebuild. The head looks to be original and was wondering if it would be worth it to have it honed or purchase a replacement. Also I'm having a hard time locating OEM parts to rebuild the top end. Does anybody have advice on where to find OEM, NOS, quality refurbished OEM parts, or good quality aftermarket. Further teardown should reveal if the bottom end also needs a rebuild. I will keep you guys updated.
 
Update on the 024AV: I tore the saw down again and noticed significant piston scoring on the exhaust outlet side and certain she will need a top end rebuild. The head looks to be original and was wondering if it would be worth it to have it honed or purchase a replacement. Also I'm having a hard time locating OEM parts to rebuild the top end. Does anybody have advice on where to find OEM, NOS, quality refurbished OEM parts, or good quality aftermarket. Further teardown should reveal if the bottom end also needs a rebuild. I will keep you guys updated.
Stihl parts are not easy to get online in the US. Only reliable source is a dealer. Your cylinder is probably ok. Search transfer removal and you will find plenty of threads. I personally sanded my MS460 cylinder. I would get a Meteor piston and Caber rings and the above gasket kit from your dealer. Here's what my piston looked like.20201007_203650.jpg
 
Stihl parts are not easy to get online in the US. Only reliable source is a dealer. Your cylinder is probably ok. Search transfer removal and you will find plenty of threads. I personally sanded my MS460 cylinder. I would get a Meteor piston and Caber rings and the above gasket kit from your dealer. Here's what my piston looked like.View attachment 936045
Thanks for the info. I was able to find a Meteor piston and Caber rings online for it and just ordered them. Now I just need to get the tools to hone the jug and hopefully get her back together.
 
Thanks for the info. I was able to find a Meteor piston and Caber rings online for it and just ordered them. Now I just need to get the tools to hone the jug and hopefully get her back together.
You're welcome.

Make sure you vacuum/pressure test it before running it. You need to verify first to make sure you don't burn it down again.
 
Stihl parts are not easy to get online in the US. Only reliable source is a dealer. Your cylinder is probably ok. Search transfer removal and you will find plenty of threads. I personally sanded my MS460 cylinder. I would get a Meteor piston and Caber rings and the above gasket kit from your dealer. Here's what my piston looked like.View attachment 936045
I have cleaned up pistons like that and reused them, simply because I couldn't get another piston or the replacement would take too long to arrive.
 
Put her in the FJ pile and run…not walk away, or do what I do and sell any good parts on eBay. Rebuilding a pro style saw correctly takes some skill and a lot of luck. I’ve tried 2-3 and they all end up with air leaks…..I’d advise against it. You can waste lots of money learning, and the frustration you cause yourself isn’t worth it, unless it’s something you really are into. I wasn’t and I gave up, went back to working on simple stuff.
 

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