Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[Kodiak Kid]

Thanks man.
I need to watch more videos so I can get good at those upside down face cuts lol.
Since it was leaning a bit towards the house I left the face a bit shallower than I would have to allow me to get a short wedge in before finishing the back cut. I had a rope on it, but didn't want it to set back.

Good call. Another option, and I do this often with small trees. Is if little room to work a wedge, you can make your back cut first too. Then set a wedge in god and firm but don't start driving it until the tree is faced up. Especially if its tied off! All depends on how bad a lean. You don't want the tree to chair over backwards when you start your face cut. You probably already know all this. Just thought I'd mention it.

Cut safe, stay sharp, snd be aware.

 

[farmer steve]

I didn't say SPUCE. I said "SPRUCE" You must be the cousin from Boston!

Musta been the fumes from the spray bombs I was using to paint the patio furniture. And it's Baaston.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

He said SPRUCE! He's gonna bring @dancan out of hiding.

 

[farmer steve]

Had to run to town and get more paint. Saw this for @H-Ranch. A Mag- wheelbarrow.

 

[chipper1]

Yes my saw was pretty much in the face cut with the chian brake lever up against the handle bar and the outside dawg barely biting the wood on the bottom cut of the face cut when making the last couple step dutch's. Not sure this near impossibe task could have been completed with one of them husky saws! Good thing its a Stihl!

I definitely understand about the down side of sacraficeing bar length for bigger dawgs, and good point! My 260 goes from 16" of cutting length to roughly 13" with the after market felling dawgs on her.

Yeah, I was glad I wasn't getting one of my huskys dirty lol, and I wouldn't want to risk getting one of them pinched/crushed.
Loosing 3" .
I've had some big dogs in the past, real nice for doing those upside-down notches (LOL), as they will hold the saw up on your lower cut, but mostly not needed here. When flush cutting or felling trees with large root flares they are great to have.
If I need to make a Humboldt I can make my gunning cut and then just bore in and across so I don't have to hold it up, more than one way to skin a cat.
Many of the newer aftermarket dogs help line up your chain with the pivoting point(3 point dogs), which should make pivoting from the gun to the lower cut on a Humboldt easier and make hitting the opposite side easier for us rookies too.
This saw was sold, but it had the big safety pros on it and a wrap handle, nice falling saw.



Here she is in the wood.



This is about as big as I like fo everyday cutting/falling. But I also have 60 and 70cc saws set up with small dogs for bucking with a 20 or 24, no need to spin a longer chain if it's not needed.

 

[WoodAbuser]

Had to run to town and get more paint. Saw this for @H-Ranch. A Mag- wheelbarrow.
View attachment 995798

What do you think H-Ranch. Are you ready for an upgrade?

 

[chipper1]

Good call. Another option, and I do this often with small trees. Is if little room to work a wedge, you can make your back cut first too. Then set a wedge in god and firm but don't start driving it until the tree is faced up. Especially if its tied off! All depends on how bad a lean. You don't want the tree to chair over backwards when you start your face cut. You probably already know all this. Just thought I'd mention it.

Cut safe, stay sharp, snd be aware.

It wasn't bad, probably could have just swung it .
It would have came over with the slightest bit of banging (it never set back on my wedge, even with that thin hinge), but since I needed the throw bag/line and rope for other limbs and everything was there, might as well rope it .

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Thanks man.
I need to watch more videos so I can get good at those upside down face cuts lol.
Since it was leaning a bit towards the house I left the face a bit shallower than I would have to allow me to get a short wedge in before finishing the back cut. I had a rope on it, but didn't want it to set back.

One thing I'd like to mention. When making a face cut be it a Conventional or Humboldt. If you bar is perfectly level when starting your horizontal cut. Witch is most always the first of the two face cuts. Then, with the saw dawgs touching the tree up against the kirf from your first cut, and at the front of your hinge. The bar, 90 degrees perpendicular to your first cut, but also level from top bar rail to bottom bar rail. Regardless of degree of steepness in you second cut. The two cuts will most always meet perfectly! I hope I explained that well. Because it would take me a week to draw a diagram that my three year old niece could draw with crayon in a couple minutes, and probably look better too!

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

It wasn't bad, probably could have just swung it .
It would have came over with the slightest bit of banging (it never set back on my wedge, even with that thin hinge), but since I needed the throw bag/line and rope for other limbs and everything was there, might as well rope it .

Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Yeah, I was glad I wasn't getting one of my huskys dirty lol, and I wouldn't want to risk getting one of them pinched/crushed.
Loosing 3" .
I've had some big dogs in the past, real nice for doing those upside-down notches (LOL), as they will hold the saw up on your lower cut, but mostly not needed here. When flush cutting or felling trees with large root flares they are great to have.
If I need to make a Humboldt I can make my gunning cut and then just bore in and across so I don't have to hold it up, more than one way to skin a cat.
Many of the newer aftermarket dogs help line up your chain with the pivoting point(3 point dogs), which should make pivoting from the gun to the lower cut on a Humboldt easier and make hitting the opposite side easier for us rookies too.
This saw was sold, but it had the big safety pros on it and a wrap handle, nice falling saw.

View attachment 995800

Here she is in the wood.



This is about as big as I like fo everyday cutting/falling. But I also have 60 and 70cc saws set up with small dogs for bucking with a 20 or 24, no need to spin a longer chain if it's not needed.

View attachment 995801

Very nice! Id cut with any of those Huskies!....

....If I absolutely had too!

 

[WoodAbuser]

One thing I'd like to mention. When making a face cut be it a Conventional or Humboldt. If you bar is perfectly level when starting your horizontal cut. Witch is most always the first of the two face cuts. Then, with the saw dawgs touching the tree up against the kirf. The bar, 90 degrees perpendicular to your first cut, but also level from top bar rail to bottom bar rail. Regardless of degree of steepness in you second cut. The two cuts will most always meet perfectly! I hope I explained that well. Because it would take me a week to draw a diagram that my three year old niece could draw with crayon in a couple minutes, and probably look better too!

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

I'm just an abuser, but I got a nice tip from a pro for conventional cuts. Once the horizontal cut is finished use the lowest dog to pivot down to the 2nd cut. That lines up the first corner. Then you can watch in the horizontal cut for the chain as it comes up on the far side.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I'm just an abuser, but I got a nice tip from a pro for conventional cuts. Once the horizontal cut is finished use the lowest dog to pivot down to the 2nd cut. That lines up the first corner. Then you can watch in the horizontal cut for the chain as it comes up on the far side.

I like it!!!

 

[chipper1]

One thing I'd like to mention. When making a face cut be it a Conventional or Humboldt. If you bar is perfectly level when starting your horizontal cut. Witch is most always the first of the two face cuts. Then, with the saw dawgs touching the tree up against the kirf. The bar, 90 degrees perpendicular to your first cut, but also level from top bar rail to bottom bar rail. Regardless of degree of steepness in you second cut. The two cuts will most always meet perfectly! I hope I explained that well. Because it would take me a week to draw a diagram that my three year old niece could draw with crayon in a couple minutes, and probably look better too!

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

I typically make my angled cut first(unless I'm doing the backcut first as you had mentioned earlier), that way I can see when my gunning cut is deep as the angled cut.
Like I was saying, lots of ways to skin a cat, what's important is that you don't waste any meat .

Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it!

Exactly, especially when the clients kids and wife were watching out the back windows about 8' from the tree . Same home where the guy was wearing a mask when I was doing the bid, maybe you should have them back up from the window when some crazy non-mask wearer is cutting your tree .

Very nice! Id cut with any of those Huskies!....

....If I absolutely had too!

And I'd let you, and I don't let many .

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Being my first pro saw as a young cutter, and also being as I hardly ever bring the "Lone Nomad Vagabond" out of retirement, and when I do. Its not for very long before she goes back into hibernation. I have been looking for a place for her to rest. I couldn't think of a better place up and out of the way than this! She now sits higher and prouder than any of my other saw's!



Wait a minute! What's that say about the loyalty to all my Stihl's!!!

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I typically make my angled cut first(unless I'm doing the backcut first as you had mentioned earlier), that way I can see when my gunning cut is deep as the angled cut.
Like I was saying, lots of ways to skin a cat, what's important is that you don't waste any meat .

Exactly, especially when the clients kids and wife were watching out the back windows about 8' from the tree . Same home where the guy was wearing a mask when I was doing the bid, maybe you should have them back up from the window when some crazy non-mask wearer is cutting your tree .

And I'd let you, and I don't let many .

Good on ya! On all of it!

 

[Sierra_rider]

I just run the 12x3/8 that's on mine right now, I need to set up a 14" stihl bar for it, just haven't done it yet, maybe by next yr . They are nice saws though, I use my 200t for the bigger stuff and it for the smaller.
Did you do fire work?
Gonna need some more pics of the bikes!
Great looking shop.

I'm running the 16" narrow kerf bar/chain I got from Bailey's...I really like that set up.

I've got a 201tcm I use as well. I almost stopped using the 201 after I got the 2511, but I did a little port work on the 201 and love it again.

I'm still in the fire service...just play tree guy on the side. I work on the wildland side of things, so I do most of my falling there...I just recently got assigned a new 462R for falling assignments at work.

Thanks about the shop...it's a work in progress lol. I'm trying to move stuff around right now and find some more space.

Alright, pics of the current bike line up...I dont ride as much as I'd like to nowadays.

 

[sean donato]

The only saw in my current line up with the big dogs is the 394xp. Actually if the mill is on the bar I take them off. Really it's more a looks cool then functional thing in hard woods imo. Hence why I'm having issues sticking those pretty gigs on the ms400. Just eats up bar space, that in truth I need a lot of the time. Actually thought about taking the grinder to them and making them a bit shorter.....

 

[Sierra_rider]

I mostly cut thick barked softwoods like cedar, pine, fir, redwood, etc so big gnarly dogs on all my saws.

I really like the 3 point WCS dogs. Have them on the 500i:





Pro safeties on the 400:

And unknown dogs on the 066. I think they're 5-point Pro Safeties, but I forget:

 

[sean donato]

I mostly cut thick barked softwoods like cedar, pine, fir, redwood, etc so big gnarly dogs on all my saws.

I really like the 3 point WCS dogs. Have them on the 500i:

View attachment 995819



Pro safeties on the 400:
View attachment 995817
And unknown dogs on the 066. I think they're 5-point Pro Safeties, but I forget:View attachment 995818

I have the 4 point pro safety for the ms 400... had the outter in place then took it back off. Just ate up the bar space. They sure do look awsome lol.

 

[Sierra_rider]

I have the 4 point pro safety for the ms 400... had the outter in place then took it back off. Just ate up the bar space. They sure do look awsome lol.

Ya just need a longer bar lol.