346XP needs replaced....it's at 90 PSI, what saw is comparable today?

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I'm with you and can definitely measure as I have calipers. You have me a bit nervous with your comment about retailers not packing right and things getting destroyed. Do you mean that in while shipping things move and get scratched or that I need to look for something in particular.
If it gets knocked around in transit with the piston and ring installed like the one I posted the picture of, the force of those movements can cause the damage. All I’d suggest is purchasing from a reputable seller and taking pictures as you open the package if it looks beat up from the trip. Usually if there’s damage I’ve been able to get another one sent.

If you haven’t already ordered a kit, there are two different ones available - one with and one without a decomp. I’ve been getting them without the decomp to eliminate another future air leak. You shouldn’t really need a decomp for this size saw anyway if you don’t have any significant health problems that make it hard to pull…
Without decomp p/n 544142907
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1439314420...JMViosOSQW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
All of you have been helpful and patient with me as I learn. I am not the kind of guy to pay someone to fix stuff unless I know I can't do it, like HVAC stuff for example. In this case I know I can, but nervous about it since I can't go buy a new saw for $600-$700
Don't buy new. Keep eyes out for a couple good used saws then take your time fixing this one up.
 
I’ll be sooooo glad when people get over 346s …
They're still great saws, and they also handle so much better than a stihl, only one close for handling is the 241 and that's just because it's light, but unfortunately it's lacking in power compared to a 346 and they are not easy to come by, also parts aren't as easily found for them.
 
They're still great saws, and they also handle so much better than a stihl, only one close for handling is the 241 and that's just because it's light, but unfortunately it's lacking in power compared to a 346 and they are not easy to come by, also parts aren't as easily found for them.
In most respects the 346XP has never been bested in the 50CC class. Some might saw the 550 has more power and it probably does, but to me that saw is the size of a 60cc saw.
The 346 was a very durable, light/nimble and in its day the most powerful saw in its class. They also kick azz when ported.
 
In most respects the 346XP has never been bested in the 50CC class. Some might saw the 550 has more power and it probably does, but to me that saw is the size of a 60cc saw.
The 346 was a very durable, light/nimble and in its day the most powerful saw in its class. They also kick azz when ported.
The 550mk1 will walk the dog on a 346 mod for mod in the cut, and it will take it's lunch money in the average cut time as well(way better fuel economy, return to run master switch, computed bar nuts, all reduce the average cut time). The 550mk1 is by far the best handling 50cc saw I've ever ran, and I've ran a good number of saws, that being said I totally understand that much of that is also personal preference.
I hate the little bitty side tensioner on the 346, it's only moderately better than a front tensioner, but a 455/460 rancher cover fixes that nicely.
If were talking about ported, most the 50's wake up big time when ported, but then they are more into the 20" bar category and for what I do that's a bit long for limbing, but they do a nice job bucking as my ported 261 does wearing a 20x3/8.
 
The 550mk1 will walk the dog on a 346 mod for mod in the cut, and it will take it's lunch money in the average cut time as well(way better fuel economy, return to run master switch, computed bar nuts, all reduce the average cut time). The 550mk1 is by far the best handling 50cc saw I've ever ran, and I've ran a good number of saws, that being said I totally understand that much of that is also personal preference.

I hate the little bitty side tensioner on the 346, it's only moderately better than a front tensioner, but a 455/460 rancher cover fixes that nicely.

If were talking about ported, most the 50's wake up big time when ported, but then they are more into the 20" bar category and for what I do that's a bit long for limbing, but they do a nice job bucking as my ported 261 does wearing a 20x3/8.

The 550mk1 will walk the dog on a 346 mod for mod in the cut, and it will take it's lunch money in the average cut time as well(way better fuel economy, return to run master switch, computed bar nuts, all reduce the average cut time). The 550mk1 is by far the best handling 50cc saw I've ever ran, and I've ran a good number of saws, that being said I totally understand that much of that is also personal preference.
I hate the little bitty side tensioner on the 346, it's only moderately better than a front tensioner, but a 455/460 rancher cover fixes that nicely.
If were talking about ported, most the 50's wake up big time when ported, but then they are more into the 20" bar category and for what I do that's a bit long for limbing, but they do a nice job bucking as my ported 261 does wearing a 20x3/8.
The 550mk1 was pretty unreliable though.
 
The 550mk1 was pretty unreliable though.
Some were some weren't, but they fixed those issues, on the later models(after 2016 is what I buy). Unfortunately, here on the forums we hear a lot of the negatives but not as much of the positives. Really sucks that once they got them squared away, then they started making the mk2, which is a nice saw, but much heavier. I have two of them here at all times for jobs(one muffler modded, one stock), also have 346's and 353's that I enjoy running for firewooding, cause everyone should own at least one 346 :).
 
Zeek, I'll weigh in a bit....for as much as my inexperience and relative noob'ish is worth. I originally watched this thread because in the new posts list it caught my eye as "346xp" and "rebuild". I agree that 7 pages in and the thread is still *fairly* on track is pretty good....although the 550xp debate is trying to derail it! :sweet:

I've also gone through some of the same emotions & thought processes as others. Initially I was happy that you would be open to the idea of rebuilding and from your very first statements it felt like you knew exactly how to R&R the saw but were hesitant due to downtime/hassle/etc, but then based on a lot of your questions I started to think that I initially misjudged your capability/knowledge and felt maybe you should be setting this aside or putting your money towards a new saw. But then thunk more deeply about it and regarding your mechanical aptitude, willingness to learn and be vulnerable (ask those questions) and with the resources of people here, YouTube, and workshop manuals, along with statements that "everybody has to start somewhere" (including how I did....I was just way more of a lurker), reconsidered that you deserve the help and encouragement and we can all just hope you end up with a strong 346 again as well as new tools and confidence.

You ask about the 90psi compression just earlier today. You had two events of 90psi compression correct? One before upside-down-backwards-ring and then the second 90psi result after installing the ring incorrectly and running the saw. It could be your decompression valve is/was sticky or leaking, or even activated. It also could be that you had 90psi the first time simply from 11yrs of use and it truly was a worn top end.... THEN with a new ring that was installed completely wrong it still didn't seal correctly therefor you got the same result as a worn out top end. It's too bad you don't have a specific recollection of how the cylinder or piston was when you initially took it apart for just the re-ring. I would say all the scoring and damage we observe today is from the ring being installed incorrectly.

Now with all that being said, I think it's not worth fretting about why it was 90psi a week ago.... Move forward from that and focus on what you are planning to achieve with these new parts and help and guidance. At this point it doesn't matter why it was 90psi because unfortunately you don't have enough past information on which to make any assertions.... its really all just conjecture and hypothesis and guesswork. You'll never really know until you have the NEW P/C installed and can judge these results against what you previously have experienced. You don't need to actually run the saw to do a initial compression check....once the intake tract is all buttoned up, a little bit of oil through the spark plug hole and then just pull it over "dry" and you'll have a good idea where things are at. You should get 140'ish PSI at least and then it'll break in from there. Anyhow that's my thoughts on your 90psi dilemma.

On to other matters,

People talk about changing the seals.... just so you're aware that's quite a bit more disassembly. It's also easy to **** it up (unfortunately) and there are actually "special" tools in consideration of reinstalling the seals. You'll need to pop the flywheel off (this can be a bitchy task sometimes, you need to be reasonably gentle), and on the PTO side you'll need to remove the clutch (remember it's reverse thread!), and then the oil pump. So on either side of the case you are "digging down" about as deep as you can go. I have found sometimes when the oil pump is R&R'd you end up with subsequent bar oil leaks because you disturb the original seating of the pump with its suction hoses. Those hoses will be old and stiff and sometimes don't play nice after everything came apart. Often if I have to dismantle a well-used saw that far I'll just replace the oil hoses in order to get new soft flexible ones that will seal properly. That just adds to cost and time...how much of a pandora's box do you want to open here.

The advice about checking for leaks is good, and you should have that foundation of knowledge for where things are at as you reassemble. My suggestion would be to just get the top end bolted back, and then plug the intake boot and exhaust flange and do the pressure-vaccum test. Don't forget to make sure the impulse hole is blocked somehow too in whatever way you decide to plug the intake boot. This way you have maximum "visibility" around the cylinder base and metal intake-clamp with which to check for leaking (soapy water misted onto mating surface). *IF* you have leaks that you determine aren't originating from the base gasket or intake clamp, THEN you can decide if you want to disassemble the flywheel and clutch-oil pump. Don't just assume that because it's a old saw that the seals must be junky leaky and should be replaced. Is it great preventative maintenance and peace of mind to do them, yes.. just beware that there are perils in both removing and replacing the seals.

Oh and of course for pressure-vaccum test you'll need to own (or buy) a MityVac type automotive pressure-vac gun. There are some great YouTube videos for all of this. I would specifically search for videos from TheChainsawGuy or MattyO , they are good and informative, as well watch stuff from Walt AFleetCommand . These would be my suggestions for getting video-based guidance.

Base Gasket: You don't need to use any additional sealant

As far as the decompression valve goes, I'd just consider eliminating it...Husky has a nice OEM block-off bolt and washer if you don't want to just wing it. A stock 346xp isn't that hard to pull through, on my saw I've never felt I needed decompression for starting. If you have a valve that you are confident in then by all means use it....just be aware that it can be a source of compression leak.

Overall I think you're definitely on the right track, and there are so many resources available to you that it's almost a overwhelming amount of direction and guidance. It's possible to spend hours & hours & hours reading, watching, and replying. Oh, I'm also going to suggest you grab the Husqvarna workshop manual. It will help with some of your teardown specs and procedure. Husqvarna 346xp Workshop Manual

I don't know what else I was going to convey.....
Put the piston on
Put the ring on (Correctly! the sloped angle surfaces where the ring "pinches" need to compress AT and UNDERNEATH the pin on the piston)
Clamp the intake boot to the cylinder before you install the cylinder
Install the cylinder with base gasket....tighten everything down
Pressure-Vaccum test. Husqvarna says pressurize to 0.8bar and in 30seconds it shouldn't leak below 0.6bar. Perfectionists will tell you it shouldn't leak at all :rolleyes:
IF you are satisfied THEN you can decide if you want to do preventative seal replacement maintenance
IF it fails pressure-vaccum not from base gasket, intake clamp, or where you plugged things off from THEN replace seals
Check Compression & decide if you have a good rebuild or need to chase more problems
Put everything else back together, run the saw, break it in, and hope for no further complications!

Oh and great you found that original little pin 👍
Maybe somebody local with experience and tools could give you a hand....that would be the best. Godspeed and God Bless

Cheers,

-Rob
 
Hey, I didn't start it, but what you gonna do in the meantime anyway :).

I'm gonna push it off the rails just a bit more 😆
I really want to get into 5-series don't get me wrong...... you've made a good case for late-model 550mk.1 , and I do think the 550 is a very good saw overall. I also want a 562xp (to replace my tempermental 357xp). For me, and I would imagine most people, it comes down to money. New or Used 5's are still quite expensive (in canada at least), and cheaper saws for rebuild are few and far between.... even the crappy ones people want an arm & a leg for 😔
 
I'm gonna push it off the rails just a bit more 😆
I really want to get into 5-series don't get me wrong...... you've made a good case for late-model 550mk.1 , and I do think the 550 is a very good saw overall. I also want a 562xp (to replace my tempermental 357xp). For me, and I would imagine most people, it comes down to money. New or Used 5's are still quite expensive (in canada at least), and cheaper saws for rebuild are few and far between.... even the crappy ones people want an arm & a leg for 😔
A 550mk1 won't replace a 357, the mk2 is much closer, especially with a muffler mod.
If you're having carb problems there's a fix for that. Many guys actually fix those carbs and swap the intake and carb from a 359/357 onto their 346's for a nice boost in power. Other than the carb I'm not sure what else could cause one to be temperamental? If you ha e one with the auto-decomp, I'd get that plugged as those have caused the premature death of many 357's.
 
A 550mk1 won't replace a 357, the mk2 is much closer, especially with a muffler mod.
If you're having carb problems there's a fix for that. Many guys actually fix those carbs and swap the intake and carb from a 359/357 onto their 346's for a nice boost in power. Other than the carb I'm not sure what else could cause one to be temperamental? If you ha e one with the auto-decomp, I'd get that plugged as those have caused the premature death of many 357's.

550mk.1 would "replace" a 346xp for me... wouldn't actually sell my saw though ;)
562xp would replace the 357xp.
It's my 357 that is tempermental, not the 346 (though I am working towards the 357/359 intake upgrade at least).... no auto-decomp.... first I thought it might be the accelerator-pump so I found a HDA-98.. helped a bit I guess.. I dunno, it's a ok saw I think maybe I just set my expectations way too high...and I think part of it is the idiot rebuilder too haha :dumb:
I'd like to get into AutoTune though.. I cut from -15C to +30C's so it would be nice to have some help in retuning the carb throughout the year. 5's are also growing on me from both a fix-it standpoint and aesthetically :heart:
 
550mk.1 would "replace" a 346xp for me... wouldn't actually sell my saw though ;)
562xp would replace the 357xp.
It's my 357 that is tempermental, not the 346 (though I am working towards the 357/359 intake upgrade at least).... no auto-decomp.... first I thought it might be the accelerator-pump so I found a HDA-98.. helped a bit I guess.. I dunno, it's a ok saw I think maybe I just set my expectations way too high...and I think part of it is the idiot rebuilder too haha :dumb:
I'd like to get into AutoTune though.. I cut from -15C to +30C's so it would be nice to have some help in retuning the carb throughout the year. 5's are also growing on me from both a fix-it standpoint and aesthetically :heart:
550xp MKII would replace a 346 for most guys also. Not everyone quables over a few ounces.
 
550mk.1 would "replace" a 346xp for me... wouldn't actually sell my saw though ;)
562xp would replace the 357xp.
It's my 357 that is tempermental, not the 346 (though I am working towards the 357/359 intake upgrade at least).... no auto-decomp.... first I thought it might be the accelerator-pump so I found a HDA-98.. helped a bit I guess.. I dunno, it's a ok saw I think maybe I just set my expectations way too high...and I think part of it is the idiot rebuilder too haha :dumb:
I'd like to get into AutoTune though.. I cut from -15C to +30C's so it would be nice to have some help in retuning the carb throughout the year. 5's are also growing on me from both a fix-it standpoint and aesthetically :heart:
I was talking about the carb issue being on the 357. I'll get a link to a video for you when I'm on my computer.
Edit, here's the video for you, hope it helps.

550xp MKII would replace a 346 for most guys also. Not everyone quables over a few ounces.
I agree for the most part with both comments. Although it won't really "replace" it, it will cut right with one, and the tensioner is much nicer as are the flippy caps(best ever on a saw :rock: .
As far as arguing over a fee ounces, I thought you'd been here long enough to know better :laugh:. That being said, with the power of a 550mk2, if you just remove the amount of fuel it takes to offset the weight, it would still probably cut just as much wood as a 346 😆. I've been know to only fill a tank half full(usually a good way into a full day of cutting), that way it weighs a little less and I get a break sooner ;).
 

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