Depending on your setup, in my vise, the head is more in the way on the left, so i move further up the chain instead of down near the head. That may be what's affecting your rakers. It's hard to get the same results with the head in the way.
Pferd vs Stihl combi sharpener
- Thread starter ham
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It's not that ...
I sharpen more towards the middle of the bar so I'm not hitting the head ...I just think there is something defective with the sharpener itself .
I sent a message to Stihl and waiting on a reply .
Ernie
Sounds like a issue with the center/raker file, try flipping it around and see if it works good on the opposite side.
I have one of these for .325 chain, you cant use it on semi chisel oregon chain, it cuts the rakers down too much, the semi chisel teeth are shorter than full chisel ones so the raker file rides too low. I use it in the field with the raker file removed, I have a hard time sharpening the saw in the woods without a vise, the 2in1 makes it east tho.
I have one of these for .325 chain, you cant use it on semi chisel oregon chain, it cuts the rakers down too much, the semi chisel teeth are shorter than full chisel ones so the raker file rides too low. I use it in the field with the raker file removed, I have a hard time sharpening the saw in the woods without a vise, the 2in1 makes it east tho.
It straight up doesnt work right on semi chisel non stihl chain.
I had the same issue with .325 chain, it works ok on oregon lpx but not right on bpx or the semi chisel speed cut chain.
Yes when comparing tooth tip to bar rail top the 63 class Stihl is higher than the 61 Stihl, 90 and ,91 class Oregon.
These devices work off the depth gauge and tooth top is my guess as I am not really interested in getting one.
Pudsy
ArboristSite Member
The 2 in 1 tool rides with one square guide bar on top of the chisel you're filing and the other on top of the chisel in front of that one, so regardless of the absolute height of the chisel the file rides at the correct height vs the top of the chisel and the raker file is offset from that too, giving you a constant depth between cutting edge of the chisel and the raker.
Don't see how a different absolute height of chisel to edge of bar would have any influence on the filing this way.
Don't see how a different absolute height of chisel to edge of bar would have any influence on the filing this way.
PFERD 17074 Premium Line Chain Saw File, 5/32" Diameter x 8" Length
- Remove stock sparingly and without undue loads on the metal
- The finer spiral cut of the premium line provides increased stock removal with a smoother filing action
PFERD 17047 Classic Line, Chain Saw File, Round, 8 inch x 5/32 inch, Spiral Cut,
The round file quickly returns the saw teeth to peak condition – aggressive filing for fast sharpeningOptimum combination of service life and stock removal rate, aggressive filing for quick sharpening
There are two types of replacement files. I ordered both, but still using the originals. Premium line is a less aggressive cut.
The 2in1 rides on the back edge of the cutters, the cutters get shorter towards the back on oregon semi more than they do on full chisel so it takes too much off the depth gauge on non stihl semi chisel.
Try it you will have one hungry, hungry chain. I had to file my almost new oregon speed cut chain back half way to get it to cut normal again after using the 2in1.
Try it you will have one hungry, hungry chain. I had to file my almost new oregon speed cut chain back half way to get it to cut normal again after using the 2in1.
Pudsy
ArboristSite Member
I don't want to argue your experience with the chain getting hungry, but there may be (must be?) a different explanation. The guide bar that rides on the cutter is set a fixed distance from the file, or if you will from the cutting edge of the cutter. All cutters on every chain I know get shorter toward the end, as in the top face of the cutter is inclined with the cutting face at the highest point. Some more than others, but still. As the cutter gets shorter the file/cutting face and the guide drop at a constant rate keeping the height between the cutting edge and the raker constant too.
It is not like the top surface of the cutter (that the guide slides over) is parabolic or something, resulting in an increase of cutting depth (raker setting).
At least, that's my perception of the mechanics of it. You may well be right in your observation that the cutting depth somehow gets more agresive toward the end of the cutter, but I don't see how the angle of incline on the cutter causes that, with how the 2-in-1 seems to work?! Or what am I missing?
I have 3/8lp .325 and 3/8 and have used them on Stihl, Husqvarna, Oregon, Carlton, Archer and unbranded Chinese chain. To be honest I haven't noticed any of them being overly aggressive. I like them because they are fast and easy to use and produce a pretty good cutting chain.
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Howard Justice
ArboristSite Operative
Speaking of Oregon 91 does anyone know what these longer “rakers” w oval hole are? Going thru my older chains and saw this one… Thank you!
I have noticed oregon chains having different length chisels and depth rakers tooth to tooth, the 2-1 knocks down some rakers more than others and the chips are more uniform in size after. It also takes 5-6 swipes per tooth to change chisel profile angles on the first sharpening. The clutch side chisels are all slightly shorter than the recoil side, brand new chains cut to the left hard once they start to dull with sharpening straightening the cut right out so im adding 2 extra swipes on the recoil side chisels until they measure evenly.
Oregon 72EXJ072G and
72EXJ091G both exhibit this
Howard Justice
ArboristSite Operative
Thank you! Never seen them before on my other chains.
My experience is that the Pferd system actually results in increased cutting speed as the chain wears out. I get my best results when the tooth has almost been filed back to the diagonal line on the tooth. But you need to provide pressure both downward and to the back of the tooth to keep a constant cut depth.
IMO they both suck.
I would say they improve sharpening for most of us. Some are sufficiently skilled at hand sharpening to do better, but I suspect they are in the minority. All I know is that a chain sharpened with this system by me cuts faster than a brand new chain, and it takes me less than 5 minutes to do the job.
I'm sure that first sentence is correct as most can't sharpen a chain to save their lives.
The results you get from these 2 in 1 jobs still sucks.
As sharpening gizmos go the simple Husqvarna roller guides are very about the best thing going. The Grandberg system also works pretty good as well, but takes some know how to set it up.
I own and have used the Granberg. It does marginally better than the 2 in 1, but it is very slow to use. Takes me at least 20 minutes to sharpen a chain with it. I do not gain enough from that sharpening to make it worthwhile. As for the 2 in 1 sucks claim, I can cut through a 12" while oak seasoned round in under 5 seconds and an 18" red oak in about 10 seconds, using an MS500i and RS chain. To me, that does not suck!
