Husqvarna 266se

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subhunter

subhunter

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Well I scored a free 266se over the thanksgiving holiday. It didnt need much, top av mounts, fuel line and chain adjuster bolt and other than a goo cleaning it was in decent shape.
My wifes uncle gave it to me . He said he got tired of fooling with it after he couldnt keep the chain from tightening up on him. I looked at it and to me it looked as the bolt was broken and it should be a cheap fix. He didnt care so now I have it.

Any way Today I got the parts in and put the new adjuster on, slap a brand new carlton timber champ bar and rsc chain thinking it was ready to go. Well I was wrong. The chain tightened itself up to the point that it stalled the saw out. I loosened it back and tried to spin the chain by hand and again it tightened up before it made a full turn. NOW I AM STUMPED!!!
The only thing I noticed that looked different to me was the bar seemed to long. The tail of the bar seems to be touching the clutch drum binding it up some. Other than that I cant figure this out. Any help? Or do I need more than 72DL on this saw?
I know that the rim is right I pulled the clutch to make sure.
 
subhunter said:
Well I scored a free 266se over the thanksgiving holiday. It didnt need much, top av mounts, fuel line and chain adjuster bolt and other than a goo cleaning it was in decent shape.
My wifes uncle gave it to me . He said he got tired of fooling with it after he couldnt keep the chain from tightening up on him. I looked at it and to me it looked as the bolt was broken and it should be a cheap fix. He didnt care so now I have it.

Any way Today I got the parts in and put the new adjuster on, slap a brand new carlton timber champ bar and rsc chain thinking it was ready to go. Well I was wrong. The chain tightened itself up to the point that it stalled the saw out. I loosened it back and tried to spin the chain by hand and again it tightened up before it made a full turn. NOW I AM STUMPED!!!
The only thing I noticed that looked different to me was the bar seemed to long. The tail of the bar seems to be touching the clutch drum binding it up some. Other than that I cant figure this out. Any help? Or do I need more than 72DL on this saw?
I know that the rim is right I pulled the clutch to make sure.
Click to expand...

Take the chain and sprocket off and see if the crank is bent. Could have happened, put away hot and chain extra tight, but other than a fit up issue (.325 vs 3/8) IDK. Right sprocket, bar, bar mount? I know you checked, just asking. Any slop in rim drive/ excessive wear on sprocket?
 
I never thought of a bent crank. The clutch and drum both looked brand new on the saw. The rim is brand new and it is 3/8. What seems strange to me is that if you tighten the chain up a bit past where you would want it, leave the clutch cover off the chain spins freely. Put the cover on it is just too tight. Maybe the brake or clutch could be mis matched? I was really wanting to use this saw on monday :pumpkin2:
 
I would think if crank was bent that bad it would be shaking and vibrating
all to hell......0 and back





TT
 
So not to sound too ignorant but How do I tell if the crank is bent? To me it looks good.
 
Trigger-Time said:
I would think if crank was bent that bad it would be shaking and vibrating
all to hell......0 and back





TT
Click to expand...

Right with no B&C it runs nice.

stumpyshusky If you are moveing the chain by hand you're not turning the crank. You are just turning the clutch bell.

I also can turn the flywheel and it spins the chain. Is that normal?
 
No, thats a clutch problem. How do the spring (springs?) look? If you turn the flywheel, the center of the crank should stay in the center, not wobble around. But thats a long shot now, focus on clutch. And the bearing is OK?
 
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Sometimes bars sprockets fail instead of the rails wearing out. It happens occasionally that the bar sprocket gets worn in such a way that there is too much clearance between the sprocket teeth and the bar rails. Once the chain is under load, the drivers get yanked into the space between the teeth and the rails, binding the saw. It is common for this to occur only under load. Once you unbind it, and there is no pressure on the chain, it will ride up on the drivers as it does normally, so it's hard to detect while you just spinning the chain by hand.

Go out, get it all nice and jammed up.... now inspect where the drivers are riding at the bar sprocket.

BTW, those are excellent saws and you're going love the power. Good score.
 
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andrethegiant70 said:
Sometimes bars sprockets fail instead of the rails wearing out. It happens occasionally that the bar sprocket gets worn in such a way that there is too much clearance between the sprocket teeth and the bar rails. Once the chain is under load, the drivers get yanked into the space between the teeth and the rails, binding the saw. It is common for this to occur only under load. Once you unbind it, and there is no pressure on the chain, it will ride up on the drivers as it does normally, so it's hard to detect while you just spinning the chain by hand.

Go out, get it all nice and jammed up.... now inspect where the drivers are riding at the bar sprocket.
Click to expand...

He said it was a new bar, and the right pitch, and I said check them. I assume hes done so...
 
Clutch or bearing issue a possibility. Or......Wrong bar, kink in chain, burred drive links from thrown chain, worn sprocket, bad bar tip sprocket. It's there.....keep looking! :cheers:
 
Well to my untrained eye the spring looks OK. the bearing is good. The part # on the drum does not match the 2 in my IPL. I wonder if that matters? When i had the chain tight the tail of the bar was still at least a 1/4" in behind the drum making the drum very close to the bar. I was wondering if that may be it?
Some pix

img07940.jpg

img0793e0.jpg

img0792sc.jpg
 
spike60 said:
Clutch or bearing issue a possibility. Or......Wrong bar, kink in chain, burred drive links from thrown chain, worn sprocket, bad bar tip sprocket. It's there.....keep looking! :cheers:
Click to expand...

Right I am! :biggrinbounce2: The bar in new and the chain is new also though. Just got them both today! New rim sprocket also Its got me stumped....

img07970.jpg
 
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Wow, we got ourselves what the Car Talk guys call a "puzzler". Rim looks good, but the drum shows some wear from running too long with a worn sprocket. If it has a lot of use on it, the ID of that drum can be worn and egged out.

I still wonder if the bar is correct since you mentioned that the tail is in contact with the drum.

How does the little nylon bushing that keeps the chain tensioner bolt in place look? Is it where it's supposed to be, in the groove in the tensioner bolt. And is the bolt straight?

As far as the bent crank is concerned, you can check that by pulling over the saw and looking at the crank end to see if it wobbles.
 
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Well I think the drum could have something to do with it. The rim has quite a bit of play when installed. It is the correct drum though as the ipl I have is for newer and the is a 1983 model. Found one on bai;eys matching the # on mine. the bar adjuster is new and the nylon square{never seen one til today} is at the far end where threads stop.

I was questioning the bar though myself. I got it from baileys, one of the el cheapo calton bars. Same one I run on my husq365 and makita. I am new to the out board clutches as the only saw that has one prior to now was my 350, which I have never had it off :yoyo:
 
Last edited:
subhunter said:
Right I am! :biggrinbounce2: The bar in new and the chain is new also though. Just got them both today! New rim sprocket also Its got me stumped....

img07970.jpg
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, looks like the chain has spent a fair amount of time riding on the spline and not in the rim sprocket.
 
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this was an edit, now a re-post so it'll catch:


looks like the spline is hammered. Does the rim sprocket move freely over the length of the spline? If not, it could be the rim sprocket is being pushed into the oil pump and binding up the works there. Putting the clutch cover on may be enough to push it into the bind.
 
Thanks TR. I think that the spline on the drum is shot.The chain would turn by hand,to a point but try to push the chain off the top of the bar as it exits the clutch cover. I am going to be ordering a new drum so I hope that will solve the problem....

Thanks for the help guys.:cheers:
 

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