Chain Cleaning Solvents/Storage Lubes

I am interested in learning the best solvents for cleaning the burnt on resins and oils from used chains. Some sort of soak. Aslo, when cleaned and filed what should I soak/spray on the chains while stored in my work bag? BTE, is ther a secret to untangling chain. Is there a trick like folding a band saw blade? :greenchainsaw:

I recently started soaking my Chains in a Plastic Container with a lid, with Oven Cleaner, for a day or two, to remove what you have mentioned. I then rinse them off in the Laundry Tub with water, and they come out pretty clean.
I hang them up to dry, then I sharpen them, with my Bench Chain Grinder. After I sharpen them, I put them in another container with a lid, of Bar Oil, and soak them in it so that they won't rust. I usually hang them on my Chain rack, until I need them again.
I hope this helps. This is what someone on the Razor Sharp Chain Forum told me to do, and it dosen't gum up the grinding wheel any more. Bruce.

I posted a similar item about a month ago ("Chain Cleaning"), and also found a few more via the 'search' function on this website. You may want to check out those replies.

There seems to be a difference between 'gettin the gunk off' from really gunked up chains, and 'makin 'em look new' for restoring old chainsaws or people who just like them to look pretty.

Just be careful that any degreaser or oven cleaner type cleaner does not take out the oil surrounding the rivets, leaving you with a rusted or seized chain. I found that stretching them out on a board (pull the chain tight against a peg), spraying them with WD-40, and hitting them with a stiff brush was good enough for me.

After I sharpen chains, I loop them into coils and tie them with wire twisty ties to keep them from getting tangled.

Philbert

Just keep cutting with them. They will clean up just fine that way... unless you are overheating them...

Don't know... I've never soaked a chain for any reason in my life...

Tangled chains... no trick that I know of... they are a pain when they get tangled... all I can say on that one is good luck and wear gloves.

Gary

Retentive is not good.

Chains keep themselves clean due to the friction of wood, the outward rotational momentum of the bar oil (I use only Stihl), and there are no worries.

Be retentive when cleaning the saw prior to and during disassembly and reassembly, when it actually counts. Otherwise, the extra expense of bowel aids, laxatives, and the like far outweigh any time savings from having a chain you could eat from, unless of course you are a chainsaw rustler (a la Rancho Deluxe), in which case you will be shot on sight in thirty-seven states....

Save the anal cr@p for when it counts.

The best way to learn how to untangle chains is to work at a saw shop... I get 10 a day that are a mess... I can now straighten them out in a few seconds while booking them in.. the customers can't figure out how I do it so fast (neither can I)...). Some guys bring in new chains just to get them untangled! LOLOL

I can still remember fighting with chains...

Should I soak my chains before I put them on my saw?

sure..... :greenchainsaw:


Stihl chain is pre-stretched and pre-lubed...

All chains have some light lube on them when assembled. If your oiler is working good, it should have enough until your bar oil gets there. Run it out of wood until chain gets wet. Don't think you have to be too "CHAINAL RETENTIVE". I bet sharp cutters and proper tension will do more to make the chain last longer, less grabbing and torque. Cleaning any dirt and sand off them will keep them from wearing too fast. JMHO

If your chain is sharp it doesn't create near as much heat as a dull chain. Hence the "burned crap" on dull chains...

Keep 'em sharp... no soaky... LMAO

Gary

GASoline71 said:

If your chain is sharp it doesn't create near as much heat as a dull chain. Hence the "burned crap" on dull chains...

Keep 'em sharp... no soaky... LMAO

Gary

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Ya, no soaky good.............:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:

GASoline71 said:

If your chain is sharp it doesn't create near as much heat as a dull chain. Hence the "burned crap" on dull chains...

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It depends on what you are cutting and how you come by the chains.

I do disaster cleanup and its often not pretty wood with blue birds flying around. Sometime we hit roofing materials or other unpleasant surprises.

I have also come upon several free chains that their original owners abandoned because they were grungy, tangled, dull, or had a few burrs on the drive links. Most were easy to clean, restore, and sharpen. On a couple I had my local dealer replace a few links for $3 to $5.

Not too bad for a good quality chain if you like to scrounge and are willing to give it a little attention.

Philbert

I've never been that hard up for chain that I have to scrounge for them... But that's me...

If you're hittin' crud like nails in wood... that's a completely different story...

Gary

GASoline71 said:

I've never been that hard up for chain that I have to scrounge for them...

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I get that. But I hate to see things wasted.

If I see a discarded chain, and I think that it will fit one of the saws I use, and I think that it can be cleaned up and sharpened with a little effort, I bring it home.

If you don't like fussing with with stuff like that, then it is not worth your time.

Philbert

Dirty chains raise hell with the stone on a grinder. Touch some larger Doug Fir bark before you pull it, presto! Clean chain.

Burvol said:

Dirty chains raise hell with the stone on a grinder. Touch some larger Doug Fir bark before you pull it, presto! Clean chain.

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If you don't have any Douglas Fir in your area, what do you suggest? I'm not tring to be smart or anything, because I don't have any Douglas Fir in my area. Thanks. Bruce.

Bruce Hopf said:

If you don't have any Douglas Fir in your area, what do you suggest? I'm not tring to be smart or anything, because I don't have any Douglas Fir in my area. Thanks. Bruce.

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Cut some clean wood and/or heavy looser bark. Letting your saw run and idle, or limbing premotes a lot of bar oil to cake up on the chain. By running your saw a higher speed through bark, it cleans all the built up gunk off before you pull it. when I have a chain to grind that is dirty, I pull it and put it in a little pan on the shop bench, and pour some straight gas over it. I let it set for a while then brush it clean with a softer wire or nylon brush, try that it works great.

Bruce Hopf said:

If you don't have any Douglas Fir in your area, what do you suggest? I'm not tring to be smart or anything, because I don't have any Douglas Fir in my area. Thanks. Bruce.

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Thanks for bringing this up Bruce.

The gunked up chains are usually off of the saw already, or too dull to cut much, which is why they are being cleaned and sharpened.

I can't endorse the raw gas method, but it's good to have a bench cleaning option.

Philbert

Philbert said:

Thanks for bringing this up Bruce.

The gunked up chains are usually off of the saw already, or too dull to cut much, which is why they are being cleaned and sharpened.

I can't endorse the raw gas method, but it's good to have a bench cleaning option.

Philbert

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Why? Don't drink it or play with, use it. I don't mess around with the ####, just clean it.

Try some Stihl hedge clipper resin remover if you feel like spending $5+ dollars on a can of that stuff...