Did I make a mistake?

I had a poulan, 2150 I think and it was just a piece of garbage. When it worked, it was fine.

Started easy and cut great. Problems, Carb came loose, fuel hose disintegrated, Oiler stopped working.

This was a one tank of gas a year saw and truly was a piece of garbage.

Since your new to cutting check out this thread a lot of good info.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=57472

bond1973 said:

Wow...you guys waste no time. I do appreciate all feedback. I figured there wouldn't be much love for the wild thing. I am pretty well stuck financially, so I may have to give this thing a shot. I was originally going to put a new chain and plug on a Homelite Automatic 150 that was given to me, but I figured I'd be better blowing the whole gift card on a new saw...even though it was a low end saw. I see the Husq 350 is an additional $200, and I certainly don't have that.

I appreciate the welcome as well.

Ahh...and wood is not my only source...I'm running on oil right now and just want to use wood in addition to help with my heating bill...since the stove is already there. I'll look into what other choices and options I have available and see what happens. Thanks again all.

Click to expand...

The Husqvarna 350 is without question the wiser choice over the Wild Thanggg! If remotely possible, personally, I'd take the W-T back and spend the extra clams for the Husky. But...the W-T didn't cost you anything and it sounds as though your greenbacks have other priorities at the moment. Therefore, I'm left with suggesting that you run the Wild Thing for as long as you can - or - no longer than you have to. When you're ready, step-up to the plate and buy a better saw. The Wild Thing may last awhile...May not? Learn to run it well and conduct proper maintenance. When you're ready...you may want to try and acquire the 350 anyways...or...go on down to your local STIHL dealer when you get the chance. You don't have to be "into" saws to be able to justify the purchase of a quality piece of equipment that you can count-on; when you can least afford to have it fail.

My dad cut for years with a Stihl 026, he didn't want to rebuild it, so he sold it. He then replaced it with a Wildthing a season. "Boy, I can buy a LOT of these refurbished junk saws (he always bought refurbs/returns) for the price of that damn Stihl!!!!" My dads a tight azz BTW. He had one last three years, one last two months. Some wouldn't start hot, some didn't want to start cold. He didn't care, just bought more of them!!
I finally got him talked into a 350, new even!!! To him that is the neatest thing since sliced bread.

My point to this long winded story, is run what you brung!!! This poor guy obviously hasn't gotten the bug, and may not get the bug. He doesn't know what a good saw will be like verses a bad one. As well as has other things he needs to devote that money to.
Get some chaps, get some spare chains, get a file and learn how to sharpen the chains ( a sharp chain will make up for a cheap saw anytime!!!). Run a GOOD oil, not the crap cheapie stuff, spend a little here, buy some good gas. Then:


GO CUT SOME WOOD!!!


Thats what it's all about!!! Go have some fun, get the bug, come back and see us when you have saved up some money and want to do more work in half the time. But until then, enjoy the saw and work on cutting safely!!
Have some fun

i can only say one thing if your not cutting alot of wood use the wildthing until it dyes or give it away when your turn comes up for a top grade saw, for the price you will learn alot on how to use a saw and how not too just dont cut any important parts legs arms and such. hey forget i owned somewhere bewteen 40 to 70 saws and a few were pull and pull somemores ha ha!!!

:greenchainsaw:

Here is my 2 cents worth. Run the poulan until it dies, you will hopefully get SOME value out of it. They are like Bic lighters. When it is finished, go out and buy something like a Stihl MS260. I predict the Wild Thing will be good for a year or so. Keep the chain sharp, run it at 32:1 and cross your fingers. If you put $80 a month away for 9 months you can get the saw you need. When you do purchase the 260, you will be astounded at the difference, happy with the purchase and never want to look back. Cheers, Happy New Years and be careful, Simon.

basically you got this saw for free. Read on this site about proper saw maintenence, and properly care for this saw. You really have no idea whether you are going to use it alot or not. If you only have 3 or so acres of wooded land, its not going to get a ton of use.

Use the saw, see if you enjoy cutting wood. Regaurdless of what you read on this site, wood cutting isn't for everyone. I say use the saw. Why bring it back, invest many more hundreds out of pocket for a "better" "homeowner" saw. You might cut wood for two days, say screw this, and never run a saw again.

If you find that you really enjoy cutting wood, start looking for a better quality, bigger saw, and keep the wildthing for limbing and as a back up when your $600 "pro" saw quits working, or the cheap disposable plastic handle on the new "pro saw" breaks simply because you dropped it. (this happened on an 026 I had, plastic...I hate plastic on saws, it is just cheap crap that doesn't belong on a real tool)

get some chaps and a helmet, and run the wildthing

What about the stove and chimney?

Have you checked the stove and chimney to make sure they are ready for burning wood? If you end up getting a birds nest in the chimney, have it full of creasote, or have a cracked up stove, you may quickly get discouraged about the wood burning thing. Plus, unless you know these things are safe, you are risking quite a bit. Chimney fires suck and so do house fires.

Keep the Wild thing. I know what it's like to start out with a small budget and if you take care of it, it will last you for a while. I've cut a lot of wood with my Poulan 2150. Like others have said, as time goes on and you get the funds, then spend the money for a bigger and better saw. It will be a good saw for you to learn with.
Oh, and welcome to AS!

I'm with the crowd that says keep it. Keep the chain sharp, though you'll probably want to ditch the safety chain on the third cut. Drain the gas when you store it. Keep the carb adjusted. By the time you wear it out, you'll know what you like about it and what you don't. And read, read, read. Don't let any of these guys talk you into a 660.

chowdozer said:

I'm with the crowd that says keep it. Keep the chain sharp, though you'll probably want to ditch the safety chain on the third cut. Drain the gas when you store it. Keep the carb adjusted. By the time you wear it out, you'll know what you like about it and what you don't. And read, read, read. Don't let any of these guys talk you into a 660.

Click to expand...

No way does he need a 660! but say a 7900 that would be cool:hmm3grin2orange:

Take good care of it, make sure you use some good quality oils, and keep the chain properly tensioned. If you have any questions about it don't feel bad about going to the local dealer and get some advice. Cut all the wood you can with it. If you feel it doesn't fit your needs anymore move up to a premium brand. No reason to jump into a 300$ saw and you end up not using it. Buy yourself some good safety equipment steel toe boots, safety chaps, and headgear. Build a relationship with a local dealer and regardless of brand, shop where they treat you well. And stay warm.

Scared Straight ;-)

Check this out if you (or anyone reading this) is thinking you don’t need to spend the money on that crap (PPE)

Not trying to scare you I think it's great that you are wanting do this, but it is a real concern. Most folks will never cut themselves but the risk is greater when you are inexperienced/learning.

Do I really need chaps??

High Speed;
http://wisha-training.lni.wa.gov/Training/videos/ChainsawLegProtection/ChainsawLegProtection_Broadband.wmv

Dial up;
http://wisha-training.lni.wa.gov/Training/videos/ChainsawLegProtection/ChainsawLegProtection_56.wmv

Do I really need a forestry helmet (warning not for the faint of heart)

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=55303

Do I really need steel toes?

Injury locations;
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/logger/chain_saw/body_parts/body_parts.html

Again I’m not trying to scare you . well maybe a little, but not out of cutting wood just into using the PPE. Just something to think about, since I know your strapped for cash, it would be easy to think you don’t need any of this stuff. Buuuut…… what if?











OK you guys can slam me now for scaring the new guy.

Nice post Erick.

Summary:
Get the gear and then offer to help someone you know to be skilled and sensible for a few hours. ASK them for instruction and LISTEN.

Learn to tune the carb by ear and practice. Open the needle until it slows down and maybe smokes, then lean it down until it smooths out. Lean a little more and you'll see it lose power and die. DON"T run lean under load for any real time. The right setting is well rich, not far short of the point where it changes note. Again, get someone to show you this. With a good instructor, it's a five minute thing. If you ever learned to deal with model planes, you're nearly there already. When the mixture is right, the saw will hunker down and sing under cutting load. If it smokes or tries to die, it's wrong.

Get the right files and ASK for instruction. Bum blades will cause you to work unsafely AND eat up the WildThing quickly. When you and your instructor think you are off to a good start, you'll probably want a non safety chain, as mentioned before. At least you'll want to lower the rakers to allow your chain to get a good bite...Use the instructor's saw a little to get a feel for how a cut should feel. It should take very little effort to keep the chain throwing chips. If you find yourself trying to force the cut, it means something is wrong.

Oak and hickory trunks over a foot or so in diameter are a load for the WT. You should sharpen/tension the chain at least every time you fill up. Keep the chain out of the dirt. Flip the bar every few sharpenings.

Be putting money aside for a new bar and a couple of chains so they are not a hardship when needed.

Mix only a gallon of fuel and after a couple of months burn leftover in a lawnmower or some such (might be bad for a car cat converter). I put it in a tractor.

Start asking tree guys and friends for wood. You'll be surprised what will turn up, but resist the temptation to drop trees near houses until you have a LOT of experience!

I'm basically an educated hack, but I've survived 40 years of sawing, mostly with marginal equipment. Now I have two pretty good Stihls and one heavy old Timberbear that I use only for big trunks. You can do it and if you get started off right you'll love the heating process.

Obviously you have to have a mall and a couple of wedges, but be trying to make friends with someone who has a splitter. I have been on both sides of deals to share splitters in exchange for wood/help. When you get a bunch of wood ahead, renting makes sense, expecially if you go in with someone. Two people can split 3-4 times what one can. The smallest woman or kid can learn to work the valve for you in a few minutes, freeing stronger hands for lifting/loading.


If you have helpers, tell them in no uncertain terms NOT to get close, especially not to walk up behind you!

Good luck and let us hear about your progress. Oh yes, you are now cutting NEXT YEAR"S wood. Don't even think about burning anything green cut now! Small deadfalls maybe, but wood over 4" or so takes forever to dry if not split. Lots of it will rot before drying, if left outside.

Well, that got a little long. Hopefully you'll take it as encouragement to get going and work properly! Remember, the saw is probably as dangerous as a pistol if used carelessly and can kill or maim you or, worse yet, someone else.

Hey Erick,

THANK you.

for scaring the bejeebus out of me.

One question though, I see that injury chart from the dept of labor.

what do I do to protect my arms and hands?

chaps and full face helmet are on my short list now.

Thanks again.

ozarkjeep said:

Hey Erick,

THANK you.

for scaring the bejeebus out of me.

One question though, I see that injury chart from the dept of labor.

what do I do to protect my arms and hands?

chaps and full face helmet are on my short list now.

Thanks again.

Click to expand...

Baileys sells a nice set of Kevlar cutting gloves, I have a pair, for hand protection. In theory, if you cut you're arm, you did something really wrong!!! Head, chest, neck, leg and foot injuries prevail.

Keep the wildthing, darn good saw for the money.

It is Likely a Strato-charged version, and these are very vulnerable to lean out on the top end.

Take the limiter caps off the carb, should be a red one and a blue one. The one closest to the air filter is the high end, or off idle. THe one farthest from the air filter is the low end, or idle mixture adjsutment.

OUT is rich, more fuel/oil.

IN is lean, less fuel/oil.

actually, according to the link Erick posted

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/logger/chain_saw/body_parts/body_parts.html

hand and arm injuries are the most common, followed closely by leg injuries.

I see that chart is 14 years old, I wonder how the newer ( kevlar) chaps have changed the numbers?

sawinredneck said:

Baileys sells a nice set of Kevlar cutting gloves, I have a pair, for hand protection. In theory, if you cut you're arm, you did something really wrong!!! Head, chest, neck, leg and foot injuries prevail.

Click to expand...

ozarkjeep said:

Hey Erick,

THANK you.

for scaring the bejeebus out of me.

One question though, I see that injury chart from the dept of labor.

what do I do to protect my arms and hands?

chaps and full face helmet are on my short list now.

Thanks again.

Click to expand...

Glad to hear I scared ya into some PPE, my work here is done

Biggest injury to the hands are caused by people one handing a saw and trying to hold brush with the other. The easiest way to prevent injury to your hands is DON'T DO IT! They make saw protective gloves if you want to go that rout. I have never used them so I can't really comment on them. Swede Pro and Stihl make shirts that have protection built into the sleeves and upper body but I don't have one of those either (on my list). I'm not trying to scare anyone into wearing a chain male suit while cutting wood, and to tell the truth if I got one of the shirts I probably wouldn't were it in the summer cause it would be to hot. Won't due much good to be protected from the saw if I'm gonna die from heat stroke while using it, but I think it would be real nice to have in the winter. I'm not real interested in the gloves either cause I always have both hands on the saw, with thumb locked around the bar . If you take out the one handers the biggest number of injuries occur to the legs and feet, chaps and boots will prevent or at least lessen these injuries. If you cut for more than three minutes your gonna realize that you need something to keep the saw chips out of your eyes and something to keep you from going deaf. The forestry helmet is the obvious choice for this and when you add in the protection factor it‘s a no brainer. I always tell people Chaps (or in my case protective pants) steel toes and a helmet with visor and muffs as a minimum if you want to take it farther..... Good on ya