357XP no start no idle solved !!!

I think a lot of people missed the boat on this simple solution..
surprised some of the dealers didnt catch it..
walked into a local johnny dealer with this husky and said " wont start or idle".. he walked off and came back with a box full of HDA carbs and said " you want to add yours to the pile ? ".. he said the reason for so many junk carbs was an internal defect reason i couldnt comprehend ..he said usually the symptoms dont show up for awhile and customers deal with it or try to retune the carb..also mentioned a bulliten put out by husky addressing this problem...
$45 and a new excact replacement Zama ,fresh gas,third pull started and idled nicely..he said if i was using regular pump gas with the ethenol in it to richen the hi side a little bit more than i would like and avoid the common husky piston meltdown..
gotta say,,finding a good saw dealer is like finding a gold mine..
noe to search the archives and find what all can be done to this to make it work like i have read it can...of course without making it unusable in the woods..
to those that contributed,thank you.
to those that can contribute,thank you.

roncoinc said:

I think a lot of people missed the boat on this simple solution..
surprised some of the dealers didnt catch it..
walked into a local johnny dealer with this husky and said " wont start or idle".. he walked off and came back with a box full of HDA carbs and said " you want to add yours to the pile ? ".. he said the reason for so many junk carbs was an internal defect reason i couldnt comprehend ..he said usually the symptoms dont show up for awhile and customers deal with it or try to retune the carb..also mentioned a bulliten put out by husky addressing this problem...
$45 and a new excact replacement Zama ,fresh gas,third pull started and idled nicely..he said if i was using regular pump gas with the ethenol in it to richen the hi side a little bit more than i would like and avoid the common husky piston meltdown..
gotta say,,finding a good saw dealer is like finding a gold mine..
noe to search the archives and find what all can be done to this to make it work like i have read it can...of course without making it unusable in the woods..
to those that contributed,thank you.
to those that can contribute,thank you.

Click to expand...

What model zama are you referring to?

please get the bullentin # for this repair. i have a 359 carb that i have rebuilt and still can't get it to run correctly.

anybody got a walbro to zama cross reference?

Oh great mighty saw troll, we call upon your expertise! what zama carb matches an HDA from a 357?

Maybe thats part of the dolmar issue? Those junk zama carbs!

huskystihl said:

Maybe thats part of the dolmar issue? Those junk zama carbs!

Click to expand...

In this case it is the junk walbro carbs not the junk zama carbs

You need a Zama C3-EL42,it will replace the Walbro HDA 199A,199B and 191A .All for better idle stability.You need part # 5052 030 01.

here it is

varmit
:jawdrop:

guess i was late sorry

varmit

bulletin also states a new flange must be replaced at the same time. Is this
true?



Varmit

I just had to replace a HDA on a 359 myself. Even after a thorough cleaning and kit, it still wouldn't run. All it wanted to do was flood. I put a Zama on it and it was fine.

the carb that was on it was a HDA175,he said the 199's where the worst..
as already posted the Zama c3 El42 is the replacement.( why didnt somebody tell me that after all the trouble i have had and posted about ? )
one "minor" glitch,the plastic part the carb srews into ( the flange,,a $5 part )needs to be changed to one to fit the Zama so the adjustings scews can be had at..thats the piece looking at the intake has a plastic arm of to the left..cut it off,you dont need it,then the zama a 5 min install.
1 1/4 turn out on each and AWAY WE GO !! adjust from there.
if you want better idle stability and smoother idle look at the throttle plate and notice the small rounded cut out..with a small round file work that a bit,experiment,all engines differ..idle screw and lo speed will need tweeking..
results in smoother idle and faster response.
the bulletin number i am sorry i cant help with..
also note failure of fuel line,,where it comes through the housing it gets pinched and can fail there..dolmar has a molded on grommet that fits tight and eliminates this stress point..also where the fuel line connecto to the metal tube on the carb,sometimes to short and at the bend can be stressed enough to fail ( like mine was) replace and leave enough slack for "wiggle" room.
after weeks of working on this problem saw and finding the week points if i knew what i know now i would have saved a LOT of time bothering people..
now to put a tach on it and adjust the hi so i dont get the well known husky melt down

any body wanna trade for a PS 5100 ??

fredmc said:

In this case it is the junk walbro carbs not the junk zama carbs

Click to expand...

Awwwwwwwwwwwwwww so funny Fred. Quick draw Fred shot himself in the foot,LOLOL Yes it appears the faulty carb is the Walbro, not the Zama. No sweat Fred, Stihl will NOT sell the good Zama's to Husky, only the faulty ones,
(i couldn't resist,hehe)

I think that is exactly what happened to my 359. A great Husky dealer fixed it on warranty and it screams now. It was down for several months because a local dealer (now ex-dealer) was too stupid to figure it out.

I have to find this out just after getting a used 359...:censored:

Brad, mine wasn't the one that got the Zama, was it?

I opened it up but don't see any markings on the carb.

Is there any easy way to tell which carb a saw has easily? I popped the cover to look at mine and can't see anything. I haven't had any trouble, just thought it would be worthwhile checking. Might be good to know if buying any used saws in the future too.

To see if yours has the crappy walbro,take the top cover off..
to the left of the carb you will see your two adjustment screws and below them the idle speed set screw..between the screws and the engine is where it is stamped..it will be upside down.look for HDA in large letters and a 3 digit number under that.any number 175 t0 199a is suspect.


;;

roncoinc said:

To see if yours has the crappy walbro,take the top cover off..
to the left of the carb you will see your two adjustment screws and below them the idle speed set screw..between the screws and the engine is where it is stamped..it will be upside down.look for HDA in large letters and a 3 digit number under that.any number 175 t0 199a is suspect.


;;

Click to expand...

I have some type of black shroud covering that it seems, which also wraps around the end of the L/H screws. Your talking about between the L/H screws and the engine/crank? Maybe it's the block, the crank seems to sit above...anyone have a pic?

Regards,
TT (not very familiar with chainsaw engines, but trying to learn)

This was a good thread.
lots learned and a lot of responses in a positive way and answers to some future questions when carbs are concerned and confirmation to those that solved the problem by replacing the carb after finding out a rebuild didnt do it.
now to search the internet and find out how bad my dealer screwed me !!
just kidding,i would have gladly parted with twice the price and considerd it a bargain with all the personal attention and knowledge he gave me..a good dealer is well worth the price..
BTW: after i had the saw going nicely i took a break and took the time to call him and express my thanks..he was a little taken aback by the call as he said not many people bother but it was nice to know somebody appreciated his efforts..