depth gauge dumb a**

I can't seem to figure out how to use a depth gauge. I have a Carlton file-o-plate and a combination thing that Oregon makes. I've tried several times (even sobered up once) to use these and can't figure it out. Can somebody help this depth gauge challenged dummy?

Lay the guide across the top of the chain so that the depth raker is sticking up through the slot in the depth guage. File off whatever is sticking up with a small flat file. Go to the next tooth and repeat.
If you are half nuts (like me) you go back after finishing and take 2 more strokes on every raker without the depth guage. I like the saw to pull into the wood a little.

Hi there, I cant stress how important it is to have rakers no lower than 25 thou. on a woodsaw, so all you smarten up and do it as I do.
John

i think the depth gauge, gauges the amount of bite allowed by the shortenning tooth that actually does the work. So, that in warmer climates, with softer wood, skip chain, lots of power and shorter bars; you can get by with more bite (deeper). But, with tougher wood, frozen, full comp, less power, more total bar length drag, might opt for lil'less.

I never much cared for the little gizmos. Running a good file across steel too hard to cut in order to cut the tiny portion of depth gauge seemed awkward and abusive to my file. I just use my calibrated eyeball.(Lay something flat on the tops of the teeth(like your file). Evaluate the clearance between the depth gauge and the file. (yes I CAN see .0025 or .0018 etc.) File the depth gauges to proper level. Hint : If you are keeping things even as you file the chain you will find it easy to keep things even as you file the chain. (I know that that statement is circular and redundant but think about it.) Each depth gauge gets the same number of even strokes from the file. (usually 3 light ones since I try to stay on top of my chains condition) VOILA!! even depth gauges.

stumper,

Been doing just that for years. My chains always cut great. I like my depth a bit more, especially with bigger saws, and as we predominately are cutting soft woods.

Not so easy for less experienced filers though.

Depth Guage

Hey Wolf River Mike,After reading all the above and looking at your chain,you understand the purpose of the depth guage.In my opinion, you can shorten the raker without the guage.Just eyeball the height difference between the top of the raker and the cutting edge of the top plate(top plate .025" taller than raker)If you shorten the raker too much,the chain will bite deep and stall.I use a power tool(electric drill or 90 air grinder/air turned down)with a 1.5''sanding disk.Its much easier and faster than a file,you just have to be careful not to touch the cutter tooth.(You might want to practice on a worn out chain first to get the feel of this).There is good info on chain cutters on www. Madsens1.com.I hope this helps,Mikey

hmm rakers...hmm....well i run my rakers pretty light generally..but most of my cutting is in a race scenario...from .017 to .025...so i can lean on the saw...and not take it out of the pipe...but rakers are an integral part of the chains cutting capabilities....

mike thats what i been trying to learn how to get right. took a couple down days last week an learned a lot.
now im going to fine tune what i learned.
one of the fellas has already commented ,that my old chainsaw man must be back.

Thanks for the reply's guys. It never occured to me to eyeball across the tops of the cutters. I think I'm a pretty decent filer actually, on round chisel chain. Have always sharpened my knives and I spent a couple of years as a machinest grinding lathe cutters. Don't really see what the fuss is about filing, at least round chisel. Thanks again for the raker info.