Will JB weld work for this?

I bought one of these plates for my 044 (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=47591).
But, the 440's and 460's have a hole in the bottom of the handle for the screw to install the plate...and my old 044 doesn't. So I'm wondering if I could use JB weld to build up under the screw hole, let it harden, and then drill a screw hole into it (the JB weld) to install the screw. For those who have used JB weld...will this work? Is JB weld hard enough? Here are some pictures to help me explain.







Any other suggestions? I had thought of just JB welding the whole plate to the tank...but I didn't want it permanently there.

Kevin

KMB said:

Any other suggestions? Kevin

Click to expand...

Drill a hole into the hand-gaurd, 10-32 stove-bolt and make a spacer, work fine, last long time!

JB will work fine... But just put it in the space beneath the screw hole (dam it so you don't have to fill the entire cavity), and when it's "putty like", put some plastic wrap under the aluminum and press it home. When set, drill out and put in a screw.

Howdy KBM,

I just finished using some JB on an old Mac clutch cover. I dont know for sure if it will work, I would say depends on what kind of hardware you are going to use. I would clean the part up some and rough up the plastic with some 120 grit sand paper to help the JB stick. I think you could try a couple of things.

1. Dont use JB and drill through and nut and bolt it.

2. Damn up the area you are putting the JB weld in and let it form a bolck so to speak, after it dries mark the hole and drill a starter hole then use a self tapping screw on it.

3. Damn up the area you are putting the JB weld in and let it form a bolck so to speak but imbead the appropriate size barrel nut or long nut and screw into that.

4. Maybe crazy glue would work?

These are just my hillbilly ways and all I can think of at the moment.

Good luck

v/r

Mike

ShoerFast said:

Drill a hole into the hand-gaurd, 10-32 stove-bolt and make a spacer, work fine, last long time!

Click to expand...

I had thought of that, but there's not much there to hold a screw and I would probably have to drill all the way through the hand guard...I want to keep it all under the hand guard, out of sight...just thought it would look cleaner...

Kevin

Lakeside53 said:

JB will work fine... But just put it in the space beneath the screw hole (dam it so you don't have to fill the entire cavity), and when it's "putty like", put some plastic wrap under the aluminum and press it home. When set, drill out and put in a screw.

Click to expand...

What I had in mind...thank ya...but I had not thought about daming up the area under the screw hole or using the plastic wrap.

Kevin

vegaome said:

2. Damn up the area you are putting the JB weld in and let it form a bolck so to speak, after it dries mark the hole and drill a starter hole then use a self tapping screw on it.

Click to expand...

Almost the exact same way that Andy had said...thank ya also.

Kevin

KMB said:

I had thought of that, but there's not much there to hold a screw and I would probably have to drill all the way through the hand guard...I want to keep it all under the hand guard, out of sight...just thought it would look cleaner...

Kevin

Click to expand...

Sorry to tell ya, but that aint going to be no show saw.

A bolt head in the hand guard would be the fastest uglyist way to attach it, JB, Devcon, or 2000psi exopy dumped in that area will also be mechineable and a color (close) match for a screw.

ShoerFast said:

Sorry to tell ya, but that aint going to be no show saw.

Click to expand...

LOL, I do realize that...and it has never been my intention ever since I decided to do this project...maybe I should have said a cleaner finish...
I didn't mean to insult your suggestion...

Kevin

KMB said:

LOL, I do realize that...and it has never been my intention ever since I decided to do this project...maybe I should have said a cleaner finish...
I didn't mean to insult your suggestion...

Kevin

Click to expand...

Nor me your intintion

Edit: I bought a 660 pos parts saw that looks like a dirty toilet, but got it screaming, used 2000psi for a broken moter-mount it had. Every once in awhile, when I have to stand on it to get it un-stuck from a cut, I think about the repaired moter-mount,,,,, take off the top cover so I can see it,,,, at-last, it is always Stihl there!

ShoerFast said:

Nor me your intintion

Click to expand...

It's all good...

Edit: I just read your edit...atta boy!

I'm just trying to see if I can rebuild my saw and get it running...will be a first for me...and to have it looking half-way decent...

Kevin

i doubt it.

i don't believe in miracles in a tube or bottle.

vegaome said:

3. Damn up the area you are putting the JB weld in and let it form a bolck so to speak but imbead the appropriate size barrel nut or long nut and screw into that.

Click to expand...

+1

You could drill a hole in one of the ribs and use a small "L" bracket, with a small nut and bolt through the rib and another into the new piece........just a thought.

Matt

hornett22 said:

i don't believe in miracles in a tube or bottle.

Click to expand...

Uh have you ever tried gorilla glue it may turn your thinking around.
Preparation H can feel like a miracle I have been told

ShoerFast said:

Drill a hole into the hand-guard, 10-32 stove-bolt and make a spacer, work fine, last long time!

Click to expand...

Yep, that'd be my simplistic Neanderthal type solution, quick, simple & cheap.

I think if I were doing it that I would ignore the screw hole entirely depending on how well the guard fits the case. If it was a pretty close fit, I would use a good flexible adhesive like Lexel and just glue it to the case after degreasing everything.

Ian

If you want to go the mounting with a screw or bolt route you might want to look into marine bolt sealant. I don't know if the gas would eat it or not. I just reinforced the transom on my boat this weekend(bigger motor:biggrinbounce2: ) and used some of it but like I said I don't know how well it would hold up to gasoline.

Evan

Try a product called "marinetex" found at boating stores. It dries white and I have used it to fix cylinder heads on motorcyles. It can be drilled and tapped. Works as a putty so damming is not really needed.

http://www.marinetex.com/PRODUCT PAGE_files/All MarineTex Putty/marinetex prod info.htm

chainsawjunky said:

If you want to go the mounting with a screw or bolt route you might want to look into marine bolt sealant. I don't know if the gas would eat it or not. I just reinforced the transom on my boat this weekend(bigger motor:biggrinbounce2: ) and used some of it but like I said I don't know how well it would hold up to gasoline.

Evan

Click to expand...

I think you're thinking that I want to drill into the fuel tank...not so. The screw hole is behind the tank...where the hand guard of the rear handle is...look at the pics I posted. I might have misunderstood you...

Kevin