020T Rebuild - Initial Planning and Questions

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I really like how clean that you made that saw prior to working on it. Nice job!
 
I really like how clean that you made that saw prior to working on it. Nice job!

everything except the case (because of the bearings) got soaked in citrus based degreaser and hot water. Then I blew it off with shop air outside. Then, I put it all in the dishwasher with a quadruple dose of soap, a shot of bleach and and a bunch of borax. Pots and Pans mode. I even pulled out the starter cord in the washer so that the grease soaked into it could come out and it could dry before being re wound.

This was the dirtiest saw inside I have ever seen beforehand. It was packed with pine resin and looks like it had burned or smouldered in there. This saw was used hard. With all that, it still ran fine and only has cosmetic damage. Tough little SOB

I am going to bead blast the outside of the cylinder and the cases are getting sprayed with Armacoat (like gunkote) bake on finish. Its a light grey that won't match but its tough, abrasion resistant and fuel/solvent proof when cured
 
They sure are tough. It is amazing how well they last considering all the junk that packs around the cooling fins. Not to mention the cylinder is no exactly out in the open. Sounds like you have a good plad going. Looking forward to the pics.
 
I need a plan to deal with the case/jug mismatch. I think I can scoop out a very shallow area to at least get a bit of flow from the corner that is the most blocked (top edges in pic, you can see the outline of the jug on the case. That part I'll just do as much as I can and that's all I can do. The other way to deal with it would be to bring the partition up and knife edge it and maybe do an epoxy fill in the blocked corner. That should keep the area the same just more flow from the center and less from the edge. I do not have a lot of meat available to take out on the case. Maybe a combo of both techniques?
What do the porting wizards think?
QuiltforPlaygroundFundraiser-4.jpg
 
not sure how much room you really have on the case without making it too thin but I would deff. try to get as much from the case as you can then make up the diff. in the cyl. The case if split, will be easier to get to and because of more access should be easier to correct the mismatch. It is just too tight in the cyl. to do alot with unless you really have all the propper tools.
 
my cylinder has divided transfers

That is a 200t cylinder, for sure. Look at the mis-match, which is clearly evident from the gasket marks on your 020t case when previously mated to the 200t cylinder base. The mis-match is obvious from your excellent detail pictures. There is enough 'meat' in the case to allow some port matching here. You don't really have to relieve it all the way, just get a good radius on it so the charge does not run into a flat wall.

Jimbo
 
That is a 200t cylinder, for sure. Look at the mis-match, which is clearly evident from the gasket marks on your 020t case when previously mated to the 200t cylinder base. The mis-match is obvious from your excellent detail pictures. There is enough 'meat' in the case to allow some port matching here. You don't really have to relieve it all the way, just get a good radius on it so the charge does not run into a flat wall.

Jimbo

thats the plan!
(when I get time to actually work on this for more than 20 minutes!)

Should I raise the partition? Should I thin out and knife edge the partition at the bottom?
 
This is what the inside of the muffler looks like
DSC_0004-23.jpg

Spray-on oven cleaner will take care of that grunge very nicely. Spray it on in the morning, go to work and when you come home it will be ready to rinse off. The chemicals will do the work for you.

Jimbo
 
the major goo is already cleaned with solvent. It will get a run through the blasting cabinet for the rest. Then the outlet is going to be opened slightly and the rails that hold the spark screen will get ground down a bit as that is really the only point of restriction that can be improved in there
 
Back
Top