024/026 Frankensaw Project

[gritz]

awesome job man. I built my father a 260 few years back when his 142 died as well. mine was only made from 2 saws tho.

Thanks. I started with two saws, but then I found the "gold mine" and plucked all the 024/026 pieces I could find. Why not, they're free?

 

[Boogieman142]

Thanks. I started with two saws, but then I found the "gold mine" and plucked all the 024/026 pieces I could find. Why not, they're free?

Free is good, only thing better would be if they built it for u too, fat chance tho.

 

[gritz]

Free is good, only thing better would be if they built it for u too, fat chance tho.

Nah, I have more fun doing this than anything. Maybe one day when I grow up (if I ever choose to, lol) I can work on chainsaws full time and have all the benefits I have now with my current job. I literally work for free (now I suppose I get paid in parts for the saws I have) at a local shop just so that I have the opportunity to work on saws. It's kind of like therapy for me.

 

[gritz]

The beginnings of the next saw. This one will be the one that I'll actually send to Dad, I think. The cylinder is virtually brand new, dirty on the outside, but the inside looks like it's got maybe 10 hours of use. The crankcase is busted, from a hard drop/smash. So it should be pretty good. I have all new rubber bits except for the oil line - waiting on that. Gonna try and get everything cleaned up tonight or tomorrow and get started on replacing seals and such.

 

[gritz]

Got most everything cleaned up. I think I need to get the carbon off the compression chamber before I put everything back together. Other than that, the cylinder looks pretty good to me. The piston isn't even worn completely smooth yet. Just starting to get worn in on the bottom of the skirts. I tried taking the best picture I could. Not sure what to use to clean the carbon with. Time do do some searching.

 

[Macman125]

I have a stihl ms260 with the non adjustable high speed carb that has the auto compensator. can I change it out to a wt22? if so can i use the auto compensator diaphragm cover on it?

 

[Macman125]

So I went ahead and put the wt22 on my ms260 with a heavily modded muffler and it runs pretty well. Got it to four stroke and it cleans up in the cut. So I would say with a mildy modded saw The wt22 even with its smaller venuri is a good setup especially if you have a non adjustable high speed carb to begin with.

 

[nstueve]

@ nstueve
The order fro top left to bottom right is as follows. WT-22B, WT-426A, WT-194, WT-394, and WTE-5.

Choke/Air filter Side (measured at smallest part of the venturi)

Now I have to try all these out. I wasn't planning on rebuilding them all, but now I guess I have to to find out which one is best. I have more kits and needles on order. Hopefully they will be in this week.

I would like to get a full list of all the 024/026/260 carbs out there and get them listed as fully adjustable or fixed "H" jet so if you wouldn't mind... let us know which of the above have all three adjustment screws.

So I went ahead and put the wt22 on my ms260 with a heavily modded muffler and it runs pretty well. Got it to four stroke and it cleans up in the cut. So I would say with a mildy modded saw The wt22 even with its smaller venuri is a good setup especially if you have a non adjustable high speed carb to begin with.

Yes to answer your question you can swap the auto-comp cover onto a wt22 or a wt194... I've actually went the other way and took the auto comp cover off so a fully adjustable ms260 carb would fit on my 026...

The wt-22 works perfectly fine on lightly modded saws or stock saws. A wt22 will serve you fine on light woods ported or muffler moded saws. As long as you can get the saw to 4 stroke and and keep speed in the cut you'll be fine. IF, you are only droping squish to 0.020ish, modding the muffler, and maybe doing some dremel clean up in the lower transfers/intake/exhaust... then a wt22 will feed the cylinder enough air/fuel mix.

You need the wt194 if you have a Pro ported saw. By pro porting I mean grinding out transfers and chaninging port timing, cutting the squish band and bottom of cylinder with lathe, dual porting the muffler... Actual full port work is what's needed to maximize the potential of a wt194. All stock 026/024 saws will be just fine with a wt22. I actually think it's a huge waste to put a wt194 on an 024 or 024super b/c they will never need the fuel/air mix flow a wt194 can provide.

You're only other carb option is if you have a 026 race saw and then you can convert to a 044 carb like Treemonkey... Heavily ported and basically a race saw... you need a wt194 or stihl 044 carb.

 

[SawTroll]

the 194 feeds enough gas to a woods ported 026 just fine, and the wt22 feeds any stock saw just fine as well. If you are staying stock it doesn't matter what carb you use as long as it's not a fixed high jet carb. The only upgrade after a 194 is a carb off a 044 stihl which is a big modification and you almost need to be race ported to run a carb that big. When you can 4stroke at 12,000-12,500rpm you've got a carb big enough to feed the saw.

Ok, I tried...

 

[gritz]

All, of the carbs I posted on have high and low adjustments (plus idle of course). I could dig around to find the non adjustable ones to take measurements on them too, but I'm not particularly interested.

I would like to get a full list of all the 024/026/260 carbs out there and get them listed as fully adjustable or fixed "H" jet so if you wouldn't mind... let us know which of the above have all three adjustment screws.


Yes to answer your question you can swap the auto-comp cover onto a wt22 or a wt194... I've actually went the other way and took the auto comp cover off so a fully adjustable ms260 carb would fit on my 026...

The wt-22 works perfectly fine on lightly modded saws or stock saws. A wt22 will serve you fine on light woods ported or muffler moded saws. As long as you can get the saw to 4 stroke and and keep speed in the cut you'll be fine. IF, you are only droping squish to 0.020ish, modding the muffler, and maybe doing some dremel clean up in the lower transfers/intake/exhaust... then a wt22 will feed the cylinder enough air/fuel mix.

You need the wt194 if you have a Pro ported saw. By pro porting I mean grinding out transfers and chaninging port timing, cutting the squish band and bottom of cylinder with lathe, dual porting the muffler... Actual full port work is what's needed to maximize the potential of a wt194. All stock 026/024 saws will be just fine with a wt22. I actually think it's a huge waste to put a wt194 on an 024 or 024super b/c they will never need the fuel/air mix flow a wt194 can provide.

You're only other carb option is if you have a 026 race saw and then you can convert to a 044 carb like Treemonkey... Heavily ported and basically a race saw... you need a wt194 or stihl 044 carb.

 

[H 2 H]

I just pick up another 026 the other day

View attachment 268029

And this one had the WT 22C carb which I'm going to put a 194 on it

This one has a .325 b/c set up on it so I'll keep it that way for now since the other one I have has 20" 3/8's b/c

 

[Mastermind]

Not to hijack this thread but what to saw builders/modifiers prefer for cylinders on the 024S/026/260.

The older 44mm or newer 44.7mm?

Although smaller I've heard good things about the smaller 44mm (ports and compression), vs new 44.7mm.

Either one is fine with me........the 44mm jug does have a lower exhaust port so if squish band mods aren't being done it's a better choice to start with.

 

[Macman125]

porting

Anyone on here port a 026/260? I know raising the exhaust port increases the rpm the saw will wind to. Does widening it increase the bottom end grunt?

 

[nstueve]

Anyone on here port a 026/260? I know raising the exhaust port increases the rpm the saw will wind to. Does widening it increase the bottom end grunt?

If you widen the ports you have to be careful of ring ends so you don't catch a ring end on a int/ex port. I would guess that you get more power all the way around when widening the ports b/c it doesn't change the stock timing and allows more fuel air mix to get to the top end. Kinda like putting a high flow head on a V8. When you start playing with the height and depth of the port you are getting into duration and port timing (more like swapping a cam in a 4cycle). it determines how long your cylinder allows fuel air in and when it opens and closes for fuel/air and exhaust. Yes raising the height of the exhaust port increases the high rpm band of the saw... but remember 2 strokes are just like 4 cycles here... You add more high RPM power and you'll lose any bottom end torque to run a chain through wood. IE: runs 16K rpm but can't run anything longer than a 12in picco chain in wood... LOL!

Randy or another saw builder can correct or add to anything I've said above. I will fully admit that the knowledge from above comes from reading posts on here, and not necessarily applied knowledge... I think I'm pretty close though... Maybe...???

 

[nstueve]

I just pick up another 026 the other day
And this one had the WT 22C carb which I'm going to put a 194 on it

wouldn't bother to waste $$$ and time on a wt194 unless you have it sitting around or are planning on some decent porting. the 22 feeds a stock and even light/mild modding just fine. The wt194 only becomes necessary when you actually send it to someone to be professonally ported.

And others can disagree with me on this but I don't like 20in bars on 50cc saws. Especially a 1121 series b/c it doesn't balance, and is underpowered if you burry the bar. If I need a 20in bar I'll go 60cc or better for balance and performance. 16in 3/8 or 18in .325 are the only bars I'd consider for the 1121 series. Over exerting a saw with a bar to big will cut it's service life, and bog in a cut it can't handle. I'd rather have "saw power > bar length." Just my opinion though...

 

[H 2 H]

wouldn't bother to waste $$$ and time on a wt194 unless you have it sitting around or are planning on some decent porting. the 22 feeds a stock and even light/mild modding just fine. The wt194 only becomes necessary when you actually send it to someone to be professonally ported.

And others can disagree with me on this but I don't like 20in bars on 50cc saws. Especially a 1121 series b/c it doesn't balance, and is underpowered if you burry the bar. If I need a 20in bar I'll go 60cc or better for balance and performance. 16in 3/8 or 18in .325 are the only bars I'd consider for the 1121 series. Just my opinion though...

This is my second 026 and I have already put the carb from my other 026 on this saw

This saw is already apart and it will be ported

 

[nstueve]

All, of the carbs I posted on have high and low adjustments (plus idle of course). I could dig around to find the non adjustable ones to take measurements on them too, but I'm not particularly interested.

Don't bother... the non-adjustable "H"jet carbs are worthless unless you have them on a non muff modded 024... The only way I have made them work on a 026 with plenty of power was to drill the "h" jet open more so it feeds more fuel at WOT. Even knowing your saw and it's mods, it's hard to know the right size to drill and still be tuneable to the saw...

 

[Macman125]

If you widen the ports you have to be careful of ring ends so you don't catch a ring end on a int/ex port. I would guess that you get more power all the way around when widening the ports b/c it doesn't change the stock timing and allows more fuel air mix to get to the top end. Kinda like putting a high flow head on a V8. When you start playing with the height and depth of the port you are getting into duration and port timing (more like swapping a cam in a 4cycle). it determines how long your cylinder allows fuel air in and when it opens and closes for fuel/air and exhaust. Yes raising the height of the exhaust port increases the high rpm band of the saw... but remember 2 strokes are just like 4 cycles here... You add more high RPM power and you'll lose any bottom end torque to run a chain through wood. IE: runs 16K rpm but can't run anything longer than a 12in picco chain in wood... LOL!

Randy or another saw builder can correct or add to anything I've said above. I will fully admit that the knowledge from above comes from reading posts on here, and not necessarily applied knowledge... I think I'm pretty close though... Maybe...???

I didnt plan on raising them I am just thinking of widening the exhaust a little bit and possibly smoothing it out. If I do widen the exhaust how much should I go and still be safe from a ring catching the port?

 

[gritz]

Okay, so I made some significant progress today. I just about have another saw, the one I'll be sending to my dad, together. It's basically ready to go with the exception of the fuel system and covers. I pressure tested everything and found out I need a new decompression valve, but everything is tight with a plug in the deco hole. Here's how it sits now.

Hopefully I can get it all buttoned up tomorrow.

 

[gritz]

H 2 H, I just saw this. IS that a running saw. It looks like it's either been taken pretty good care of (other than the dust), or has low hours on it. Just out of curiosity, how many 026/ms260s do you have?

I just pick up another 026 the other day

View attachment 268029

And this one had the WT 22C carb which I'm going to put a 194 on it

This one has a .325 b/c set up on it so I'll keep it that way for now since the other one I have has 20" 3/8's b/c