034 torque settings
- Thread starter highsiera
- Start date
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EastwoodGang4
ArboristSite Operative
When I take the clutch apart i just tighten it as tight as i can with a wrench and the engine will tighten it the rest of the way. Because of the left hand thread it's always tightening on it's own. As for the cylinder bolts i'm not sure.
highsiera
ArboristSite Operative
I realize there are 2 schools of thought here, but I have the torque wrench, and I have the time, so I'd like to torque these to the proper specs. Much preferable to sweeping the driveway with the magnet looking for parts after they shoot off at 14000 rpm. Thanks though for responding. B
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
50nm for the clutch carrier; 33nm for the flywheel. The flywheel and crank stub must be degreased before assembly.
10.5Nm for the cylinder bolt, 10 for the muffler.
10.5Nm for the cylinder bolt, 10 for the muffler.
Last edited:
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
EastwoodGang4 said:
This is not correct.. and I too have lost a few clutches by not paying attention to this matter. You have to look at acceleration and deacceleration of the engine verses the clutch. The only time it's really tightening is when you slam on the brake, and then you have no idea to what extent it is tightening. It's very easy to over-torque a clutch this way and can lead to premature crank falure.
highsiera
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Andy and a belated Happy Birthday, I agree on the torqueing the clutch for obvious reasons. Do you happen to have the nm number for the cylnder to crankcase bolts after I reinstall the piston on this saw?
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
It's in my post... I might have been editing while you were reading..
