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Jmcgatha1991

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I just recently acquired an 036 for 75 bucks but it's started acting up it'll usually fire right up but won't stay running at idle I've already been looking into overhauling it just for the fun of it... is there any big bore kits for it? If so how do they compare to stock parts... also after it warms up it's nearly impossible to start... and ideas on what could be causing that?
 
The last one I did needed rings, intake, fuel line n filter and impulse. After that it was back to it's former self, a good old saw.
Check the rest of the rubber and the master control was tricky. Carb may need refresh. Pull the muffler and peak in there. If bad try and press and vac test before you take it apart.
I'd run the factory top end if I could.

You lucky dog you, I been watching for another and you are not that far from me. Good luck and have fun with it.
 
OK i pulled the exhaust the other day and from what I could see the piston looked OK but I'm in Arkansas ATM clearing up some trees that fell due to ice... but when I get back I'll take pics and post them... where did u get your rings from? And have u ever used the carb rebuild kits on ebay? Figured I would go ahead and rebuild it seems like the needle wasn't functioning properly if I remember correctly... I did a compression test but idk if it was accurate or not because it only read 30 psi Figured I forgot to do something before I tested it... would it run with only 30 psi compression? Seems like it wouldn't honestly but who knows...
 
Mine too looked good from ex port. A ring end gap check showed they were wiped out. I used Caber rings I had on stock for husky (lol) and that was my main issue. The other parts I mentioned are disposable IMO.
My carb passed pressure, so I left it. I have a local guy for those.
Ebay is best for me for oem as Stihl wont ship to me and dealer does not stock old stuff.
You might try the shop in Harmerville if you can. I try and avoid aftermarket parts when possible.

My saw was well known and long owned to me.
 
OK i pulled the exhaust the other day and from what I could see the piston looked OK but I'm in Arkansas ATM clearing up some trees that fell due to ice... but when I get back I'll take pics and post them... where did u get your rings from? And have u ever used the carb rebuild kits on ebay? Figured I would go ahead and rebuild it seems like the needle wasn't functioning properly if I remember correctly... I did a compression test but idk if it was accurate or not because it only read 30 psi Figured I forgot to do something before I tested it... would it run with only 30 psi compression? Seems like it wouldn't honestly but who knows...
It would definitely not run with30 psi comp. Your tester needs to have the Schrader valve in the end attached to the sparkplug adapter. Save the cylinder, sounds like you have a vac leak somewhere. The 036 cuts way above it's class!
 
OK thanks I'm gonna go in depth with the tests and narrow it down soon as I get back home... I'm gonna do some more digging on here as well to learn as much as I can... I would like to have it ported as well but don't really know if it would make a big difference... kinda new to the chainsaw world but worked on plenty of cars and bikes... if anyone thinks of anything else feel free to let me know I really appreciate the help..
 
With a new to me saw, I would then put a new kit in the carb, inspect fuel and impulse lines, new fuel filter, and flush the fuel tank, and clean the air filter as a basic start if it was not running well.
Then give it a good overall clean including taking off the clutch (its opposite thread, so you undo it by going clockwise), and giving the oil drive gear some grease, and its bushing inside a clean and fresh oil.
clean up clutch drum, clean re grease clutch bearing dress bar, sharpen chain etc etc etc
Whilst going over it like that, you pick up on other bits and pieces that may need attention like loose screws etc.

It was sold for a reason, just have to find out the reason/ s.
Often with low hr saws, and you have already checked the piston condition, a clean of the carb, to remove stale oxidised fuel residue, or new diaphragms etc will get it running ok again.

No dont bother with big bore chinga stuff, the oem top end on those are really nice, and they perform well, its one of my favourite saws the 036, have a few of them.

edited to add.
welcome to AS, I dont know your level of experience in operating saws, or fixing them, so need more info so we can help you further.
 
You can still get new oem pistons for about 90 bucks, get a zama parts kit for the carb, the top carb cover likes to accumulate sawdust fines through the diaphragm breather hole. I have found more than one with stuck gummy rings or rings that have lost their spring tension that would start run a few then shut off when returning to idle. My 034 super had a start then shut off issue that turned out to be a warped carb cover causing air to be sucked into the fuel pump. Pressure test the carb, pressure test the fuel tank then vac test it to test the vent. Stihl fuel filters can look clean but can be restricted, with a old soft fuel hose it can cause it to be sucked flat shutting fuel off. Even a old worn out plug can cause shut offs after it gets some heat into it. ms360, 036, 034 super is arguably the best 60cc saws stihl has ever made, when ported they become a Tasmanian wood devil. Use all oem parts on it and it will go another 30+ years, stay away from aftermarket engine parts because they are just not the same quality or provide the same performance. If you plan to us it for a everyday work horse get and install the updated clutch/bearing/rim/clutch drum setup. They make so much power for a 60cc that the original small clutch needle bearing will fail and it can wipe out the oil pump and possibly the case. I loved my first one so much I built 2 more and keep one extra of everything :rolleyes:
 
Years ago I got two ms360 pro saws from a rental place. Consecutive serial numbers. Best 400 bucks ever spent. Animals no doubt.
 
Low comp, he said the piston appeared ok thru the ex port, Likley rings.
If his comp test says 30 psi, yet the saw runs it’s above 120 psi and his tester is wrong. If then gets hard to start warm I still think it could be transfer. Looking forward to seeing a picture of the skirt!
 
I thought he said he had checked the piston and it was ok.

post #3

op said it would start, but not idle.

so didnt sound like a lean/ air leak type issue, or scoring.
I ignored the 30psi as it would start, as you mentioned, it has enough comp to start, we can rule out low comp.

suggested to go over fuel lines, carb kit filter etc, and go from there.
also asked about the op's experience and knowledge, so were not leap frogging over problems and were all on the same page.
 
OK thanks I'm gonna go in depth with the tests and narrow it down soon as I get back home... I'm gonna do some more digging on here as well to learn as much as I can... I would like to have it ported as well but don't really know if it would make a big difference... kinda new to the chainsaw world but worked on plenty of cars and bikes... if anyone thinks of anything else feel free to let me know I really appreciate the help..

Ok I would suggest, that you just start with getting the saw running well and sorted, and understand why its not at the moment before you head down the porting road.
They are a lovely saw stock, and will put plenty of firewood in the trailer and logs on the ground.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.. I'm no expert saw mechanic but I've worked on enough to understand alot more than the basic stuff... and yeah I'm pretty sure my compression tester is bad as another saw read 30 psi as well... I will get more pics of the ex port and the piston and post then asap... when I first got the saw I did some routine maintenance on it clean filter, remove carb clean it as best as possible. Changed fuel filter, had to change fuel line ias the old one had split.. sorry I should've mentioned this in my original post... also it's spraying fuel out the carb... I guess it could be flooding causing it to not idle and making it a pita to start back since its flooded... also what's the impulse line and irs purpose? Thanks for the help
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.. I'm no expert saw mechanic but I've worked on enough to understand alot more than the basic stuff... and yeah I'm pretty sure my compression tester is bad as another saw read 30 psi as well... I will get more pics of the ex port and the piston and post then asap... when I first got the saw I did some routine maintenance on it clean filter, remove carb clean it as best as possible. Changed fuel filter, had to change fuel line ias the old one had split.. sorry I should've mentioned this in my original post... also it's spraying fuel out the carb... I guess it could be flooding causing it to not idle and making it a pita to start back since its flooded... also what's the impulse line and irs purpose? Thanks for the help
Impulse line transmits the pulse (from the piston moving and causing vac and pressure as it moves) from the crank case to the carb to enable the fuel pump diaphragm to work.
if the fuel line needed replacing, then the impulse is usually in the same state, and needs replacement too.

Chainsaws, like any other 2 strokes are simple, but have their finer points of nuance too.
if the carb is flooding out, its usually due to the needle / seat area not sealing, or the gasket and diaphragm put in the wrong orientation.
have attached an IPL and service manual to help you look over it with a bit more understanding.

edited to add.
also, using large amounts of carb cleaner or high pressure air to clean out the main jet can damage the one way valve in the venturi, so go easy on them.
 

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  • 034, 036 SM.pdf
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Well, they all spray fuel out of the carb, even if tuned correctly. Question is whether it is excessive or not.
But, if the saw will tune on the high side then it is not too much fuel.
You should be able to turn the idle needle out 1 1/4 turn and screw the LA in far enough to keep it idling.
If you have to turn the idle out further then you are chasing an air leak.
Lot simpler way of knowing if you have a meaningful leak than going through all the contortions of a vacuum pressure test.

If you can't make it idle period it is likely a carb issue or a compression issue. if it was impulse it wouldn't being blowing fuel out the carb.
 
The piston looks good from what I've been able to tell... it'd got some wear but nothing out of the ordinary I don't think... I'm hoping to be Back home soon so I can post pics of everything as I go thru it... also the breather vent on fuel tank someone had shoved a stick or something in it looking back now I wonder if that was somehow there way of trying to fix pressure or something... won't know til I get home and really go thru it... thanks for the suggestions
 
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