I believe that mess is in only 20 minutes of cutting. It's oiling, just not staying on the chain.
038 -- Chain smoking. Bar hot. Oiler seems to work but chain is dry.
- Thread starter 777funk
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I believe that mess is in only 20 minutes of cutting. It's oiling, just not staying on the chain.
buttercup
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Ok, then there is definitely something seriously wrong.
Justsaws
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Is that the used motor oil you mentioned earlier?
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But what about when you mix fresh sawdust with well used crankcase motor oil?
buttercup
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But what about when you mix fresh sawdust with well used crankcase motor oil?
Ah... I see.
It does eventually splat oil drops after the chain/bar unplugs itself. Before then it's just a mess of dust and oil.
I've used motor oil in a pinch before on other saws and never had an issue.
I picked up a few more gallons of bar oil. Hopefully that cures it.
I've used motor oil in a pinch before on other saws and never had an issue.
I picked up a few more gallons of bar oil. Hopefully that cures it.
Justsaws
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It does not look like the bar is sitting flat against the inner and outer bar plates. Might need to remove the plates and clean behind them. It also looks like the bar oiler holes are plugged. The holes will plug quickly if the bar plates and bar are not meshing flat.
That's what I was thinking also with the plates not sealing to the bar. Since the bar oil hole is through both sides it's especially important. I cleaned/unplugged the hole a few times. Didn't solve it. Gotta be something simple. I think the oil supply is ok. Easiest place to start will be good bar oil.
Justsaws
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Did you clean out the groove in the guide bar all the way around?
Yes I did. A couple times. I think it may be how it seals to the side plates. Maybe I'll find a way to plug the through hole on the side of the bar opposite the oiler to see if it passing through is the problem. Jb weld may do it.
buttercup
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Stop right there, should that really be necessary?
Stihl didn't think so (assuming the hole all the way through is factory). But most of my bars are not through (only hole is on the oiler side; blocked from pass through). This JB Weld test would rule out the side plate not making a good seal.
Justsaws
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Lots of bars have oiler holes drilled through both sides. It is not an issue as long as the corresponding mounting surfaces are setup to accommodate the holes and are in good condition?
Is the tail of the bar where it would be clamped between the plates flat?
Is the clutch cover bar clamp surface flat? These will get out of shape over time from being wrench down repeatedly. Becomes a bigger issue with the oil hole drilled all the way through the bar.
If the oil pump system is working properly when testing it without the bar, chain and outer cover while running at WOT oil should be pouring out of the outlet area at a constant rate, if it sputters, spits or varies then something is not correct. It might spit and sputter very briefly at first to purge any air in the system but after that it should be constant, and it should purge very quickly. There should be no oil any where else other than the area around the outlet and where that oil runs down the saw, any oil around the clutch area or between the clutch area and mounting pad is a leak.
Usually when a saw has a lot of oil slung around the clutch area it is indicative of a leak in that area, hard to tell from photos. If the saw is oiling properly, much of any excess oil is slung of the tip of the bar and what is carried round to the bottom and then around the sprocket is absorbed by saw dust, if everything is setup and working properly. There will be a mess, made worse by the oil being black, however the photo has the look of a saw with leaking oil system as well as a possible bar mount issue. However, hard to tell from photos.
Is the tail of the bar where it would be clamped between the plates flat?
Is the clutch cover bar clamp surface flat? These will get out of shape over time from being wrench down repeatedly. Becomes a bigger issue with the oil hole drilled all the way through the bar.
If the oil pump system is working properly when testing it without the bar, chain and outer cover while running at WOT oil should be pouring out of the outlet area at a constant rate, if it sputters, spits or varies then something is not correct. It might spit and sputter very briefly at first to purge any air in the system but after that it should be constant, and it should purge very quickly. There should be no oil any where else other than the area around the outlet and where that oil runs down the saw, any oil around the clutch area or between the clutch area and mounting pad is a leak.
Usually when a saw has a lot of oil slung around the clutch area it is indicative of a leak in that area, hard to tell from photos. If the saw is oiling properly, much of any excess oil is slung of the tip of the bar and what is carried round to the bottom and then around the sprocket is absorbed by saw dust, if everything is setup and working properly. There will be a mess, made worse by the oil being black, however the photo has the look of a saw with leaking oil system as well as a possible bar mount issue. However, hard to tell from photos.
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Are the threads on the bar studs flogged out and not even holding the cover plate on properly?
They're tightening ok. I do question the flatness mentioned above. At a glance, the bar plates don't look right.
This is the last little issue to track down on the saw. The previous owner did not mention any of the issues. But the piston and compression are good. Happy about that.
Teemore
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A couple of things to check (apologies if you have done these checks already). How big is the bar slot in your guide bar? 12mm or 14mm? (I was trying to gauge from your picture whether the bar slot is oversized for the bar studs but its hard to do so).
Are the oiler holes on that bar actually lining up with the oiler slot in the saw case and inner bar plate? From some of the witness marks on your inner bar plate, I wonder whether the lack of oil is simply down to the bar oiler hole not aligning with the oiler slot on the inner bar plate. Have you access to a spare bar to see if a different bar oils ok?
Are the oiler holes on that bar actually lining up with the oiler slot in the saw case and inner bar plate? From some of the witness marks on your inner bar plate, I wonder whether the lack of oil is simply down to the bar oiler hole not aligning with the oiler slot on the inner bar plate. Have you access to a spare bar to see if a different bar oils ok?
How about a picture of : 1) the inner guide plate installed, 2)then with bar just held on with nuts, no cover to see how well oiler hole lines up?
