039/MS390 vs. 036/MS360

[GeraldMacky]

I think you have your mind made up.

You should be happy with a 390. They are, after all, made by Stihl.

Yeah, I guess I do. . . . . sort of. I'll probably continue to look at both but certainly won't turn down any 039s. I guess whatever deal I find first is what I'll get. Thanks guys for all your help.

 

[Mastermind]

Yeah, I guess I do. . . . . sort of. I'll probably continue to look at both but certainly won't turn down any 039s. I guess whatever deal I find first is what I'll get. Thanks guys for all your help.

Just remember, if you get one of those hung up in a log, don't jerk on it hoping to get it out. That's what broke the handles on the ones I've repaired.

Good luck and cut safe.

 

[WVshooter]

I stand by my comments here

I wanted a pro saw, I bought a pro saw. The reality is that the mid-range saw probably would suit me just fine. I've mentioned somewhere else that my fire station runs a handfull of Stihl saws, 3 of which are 310's. They don't get used everyday, but when they are used, they take a beating and come back for more.

I'd say a nice 390 for less than $300 is a no brainer compared to a 360/361 that is being sold because someone who used it everyday bought a new one.
FWIW, the 390 has a compression release, should you require it.

 

[046]

chainsaw nut weighting in ... Pro Saws are the only way to go!
unfortunately new prices charged reflect pro use.

best way to get around it is to buy a used pro saw in excellent condition. resale values are higher so come your turn to sell... if one chooses the correct model and keep it in good condition. then it's quite possible to get most if not all your $$$ back.

for instance the MS360 Pro offered by me in thread above. at $375 one could use that saw for 2-5 years of light duty. say for personal firewood. odds are very good you will be able to sell above MS360 and get most of the $$ back.

the same could be said of your example of buying a MS390 in good condition for $300. you could use that saw for 3-5 years and still get most $$$ back. but given a choice, much rather pay a bit more for a pro saw and be using a pro saw for the next 3-5 years and still get your $$ back.

the trick is knowing which saw to buy and how to tell if a Stihl/Husky chainsaw is truly in good condition. Now if you purchased the same MS360 Pro new for $800? No way after 3-5 years use and still get most of your $$ back.

borrowed a few pic's from ebay of a MS360 ($460) not to buy. This saw is hammered, despite seller claiming compression of 160 psi.

I stand by my comments here

I wanted a pro saw, I bought a pro saw. The reality is that the mid-range saw probably would suit me just fine. I've mentioned somewhere else that my fire station runs a handfull of Stihl saws, 3 of which are 310's. They don't get used everyday, but when they are used, they take a beating and come back for more.

I'd say a nice 390 for less than $300 is a no brainer compared to a 360/361 that is being sold because someone who used it everyday bought a new one.
FWIW, the 390 has a compression release, should you require it.

 

[GeraldMacky]

046, on the saw your selling, how did you come upon it? Is it something you purchased new? That is what scares me about pro saws. Almost everyone of them was used day in and day out. Granted, many pros take care of their tools but some don't. Unless you know the full history, it's tough to say whether it was abused. Even good compression doesn't always tell the whole story, you could have fine compression but a scored cylinder or bearings or have a newer top end with the rest of bearings worn out. The best deal I found was on a 361 purchased new by a private guy for cutting wood. From the pictures it looked to be in pristine condition and the only reason he got rid of it was because he had geo thermal installed. It was $300 but a 4 hour drive one way. I called back the next day but it had sold already. At $350 after gas, he's at the top of my budget, really more like $50 over it. That's one reason I keep holding out, in hopes of finding that super deal that's closer to home. I know I can't afford a clean pro saw unless it's a steal of a deal. On a fixed income, most are out of reach, no matter how bad I want one

 

[2000ssm6]

Even good compression doesn't always tell the whole story, you could have fine compression but a scored cylinder or bearings or have a newer top end with the rest of bearings worn out.

Compression tests tells the condition of the cylinder and piston. A scored p&c will have a low psi reading due to the rings not being able to seal 100%. The compression test doesn't help with bearings but pulling the plug and rotating the crank by hand can a little. If it is tight or gritty, the bearings need to be looked at. If the saw runs/sounds good, the bearings are most likely fine.

A pressure/vac test is needed to test seals and gaskets.

 

[GeraldMacky]

Compression tests tells the condition of the cylinder and piston. A scored p&c will have a low psi reading due to the rings not being able to seal 100%.

Most of the time yes, but not always. I used to mess with snowmobiles and dirt bikes and can tell you proof positive, that a scored cylinder will not necessarily show up on a compression test. Granted, if it's in the area where the rings contact, it most likely will if its been run very long like that. I bought a used motor that showed 160psi. I pulled the head and everything looked great but thankfully decided to pull it the rest of the way down to be safe before I installed it. The guy had rebuilt it but it wasn't going to last long. The bottom of the cylinder was scored up like heck. He honed it the best he could but eventually that galling would have wrecked the piston skirt and then galled the whole cylinder up. I had a dirt bike that was running around 140 psi but had a cracked cylinder bridge at one of the ports. I let the thing get too hot in an endurance race. I could have sold that to some unknowing kid and it may have lasted a long time or it may have lasted a day before it broke out the rest of the way and destroyed the motor. I still have the dang thing to this day, thanks in part to my reluctance to sell anything. I haven't rode it in 6 years and that's after I dumped $500 in a total rebuild. I would sell it and buy a saw but I'm attached to it after all the years and memories of racing it. Having said that though, the compression test, for the most part, is a pretty fail proof way of telling the condition. I don't know of many people that are going to pressure test a motor though, or at least test it correctly.

 

[CR500]

I have a 391 with a 20 inch bar I want to put a 25 inch on it one day but So far I am really happy with it for cutting wood and felling some trees the other trees I use my 044 just because it is always nice to have a little extra power, like said you will be happy with whatever you decide to buy.

 

[046]

sorry the MS360 I posted above is already sold ... someone is suppose to pick it up in the AM.

when an established AS member with thousands of posts, offers a saw for sale, odds are it's a nice saw..... after all who wants to be slammed for selling a beat up saw.
it's not a big deal to pull a compression reading and yank muffler off to verify bore is in good condition. etc, etc

when a clean pro saw has good compression, starts easy, idles and runs strong. odds are highly in favor of that saw being a good one. that's why pro saws bring more $$$... they really are more rugged.

one of the best saws ever came from another AS members.
a super clean 064 ... came in better than described.

selling MS360 because got no use for a 60cc class saw.
it's an ideal saw for someone that can only have one saw.

much better off with a MS260/MS460 combo...

046, on the saw your selling, how did you come upon it? Is it something you purchased new? That is what scares me about pro saws. Almost everyone of them was used day in and day out. Granted, many pros take care of their tools but some don't. Unless you know the full history, it's tough to say whether it was abused. Even good compression doesn't always tell the whole story, you could have fine compression but a scored cylinder or bearings or have a newer top end with the rest of bearings worn out. The best deal I found was on a 361 purchased new by a private guy for cutting wood. From the pictures it looked to be in pristine condition and the only reason he got rid of it was because he had geo thermal installed. It was $300 but a 4 hour drive one way. I called back the next day but it had sold already. At $350 after gas, he's at the top of my budget, really more like $50 over it. That's one reason I keep holding out, in hopes of finding that super deal that's closer to home. I know I can't afford a clean pro saw unless it's a steal of a deal. On a fixed income, most are out of reach, no matter how bad I want one

 

[Mastermind]

sorry the MS360 I posted above is already sold ... someone is suppose to pick it up in the AM.

when an established AS member with thousands of posts, offers a saw for sale, odds are it's a nice saw..... after all who wants to be slammed for selling a beat up saw.

one of the best saws ever came from another AS members.
a super clean 064 ... came in better than described.

selling MS360 because got no use for a 60cc class saw.
it's an ideal saw for someone that can only have one saw.

much better off with a MS260/MS460 combo...

I have a 036 pro I just rebuilt from a basket case. I haven't used it a lot until today. I quartered up some walnut with it and really like this saw. It's a very light 62cc saw, and after a woods port and a sprocket upgrade it's my new favorite, (for now, lol)

 

[Brushwacker]

I prefer pro saws too, the 034-36 series being at the top of my list with 044's for alround firewood use bucking-limbing hardwoods under 20" in diameter. Haven't used a 361 enough to fall in love with, have used the 039 falling fairly good size cottonwoods on a ditch bank alternately with 046's. I like the 039 alright and as far as non pro saws go I see a lot of Stihl none pro saws being used professionally in these parts and most of them seem to last long enough for the businesses to make a lot of money with them. I know of a couple that didn't last very well but I've seen about the same or worse worse with brand X pro saws. Personally I'd trust the 039 as much or more as far as reliability.

 

[GeraldMacky]

Thanks guys for all the input. I'm not sure if I'm going to be getting a new saw anytime soon here now anyways. My trusty but rusty truck can no longer be called trusty. I think a rod is going out and so I'll need to be focusing in on that. I've got another motor for it but I'm not sure if I'm going to install it or get myself something newer. Until I decide that, I think my new saw is going to have to wait. Don't let me stop you from offering up a good deal on a saw though. I'm still in the market, but maybe just not as much as I was before. Thanks again.

Jerry

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I would say that either of the two you want would do you good. Some of the things that make the 360 better for me are the balance, weight and power difference over the 390. The 360 is a little lighter, has a little more power, and just balances alot better for me. The 390 has a fat arse and feels rear heavy to me. I just can't get use to that class of saw. A 360 feels so much better in the hands.
The deal 046 had on that 360 was golden. Looked to be in great shape when you looked through the sawdust on it. I know how it is to be short on cash too though so I understand that you are looking for something cheap.
A pro model will be harder to find for the price your looking to pay, but you may come across the right deal sometime. Just keep a lookout and don't jump into anything. You will know when the deal is right, and when it does show up, you better be on it quick or it will be gone. Good luck.

 

[atvguns]

I haved owned a 029 for years basically the same as the 039 or 390 just purchased a good used 036 have used it for two weeks can definatlly say the pro series is a lot better made saw it is worth the extra money

 

[WVshooter]

I haved owned a 029 for years basically the same as the 039 or 390 ...

As far as weight and dimensions, yes, but not power.

You are right, though, the 036/360 is much better.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

much better off with a MS260/MS460 combo...

MY oipinion is the same 046.

 

[8433jeff]

And replacing the 250 with the 260 gets him further into the bigger wood. If he ran skip, could go to 24" bar on it. But thats crazy talk.

 

[8433jeff]

As far as weight and dimensions, yes, but not power.

You are right, though, the 036/360 is much better.

I'd call an 029 super in the middle of a 290/390. 290's wish they were 029's at night and in the log, you will too.
But I also agree that the 036/360 is way better.

 

[7sleeper]

Get a Dolmar/Makita 6400 used from rental service, should be available for around 200$. It will be a much better saw and the ability to upgrade to a "7900" should eliminate any further thought!

Good luck,

7

 

[Mastermind]

Get a Dolmar/Makita 6400 used from rental service, should be available for around 200$. It will be a much better saw and the ability to upgrade to a "7900" should eliminate any further thought!

Good luck,

7

I live so far back in the sticks I would have to drive 6 hours to find a rental center.

I would like to get one for that price though.