044 crankcase swap

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Crispexx

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Well, I’m going to test my abilities these next few weeks. I bought an old 044 that wasn’t running, turns out the impulse line wasn’t connected. Easy fix! While I was doing the old tear down and inspect I find the oiler has been damaged, again easy fix. While inspecting the oiler I notice the screws that hold the oiler in place are not stihl screws but hex head screws. Well that’s not right. Turns out the holes were stripped then tapped for a larger screw that ever so slightly threads into the outer race for the clutch bearing. That’s not good. So I look all over this thing I find about 25-40% of the screw holes have been stripped and tapped or simply left stripped. Well guess what I found on eBay that very night! An 044 crankcase with no stripped holes on it for $50!

Long story long, any tips or tricks or YouTube vids y’all can give that’ll make this Frankenstein’s monster easier to deal with?


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Can be done with your eyes closed or while you are asleep, very simple straight forward saws to work on.

What would you recommend replacing while I have it totally stripped? I’m going to do new bearings and seals, would a wrist pin bearing be a good idea?


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I am not from the replace everything at the same time school, I replace what I find defective. You will get tons of advice from others that will pile on this thread, do as you feel necessary. I have only built 27 of these 044`s from the crank up but all of them are still running fine.
 
Bearings, seals, gaskets, rubber lines if needed, wrist pin bearing. Check all the wiring is good. Pretty cheap to rebuild the entire bottom end. So why not? Use the oiler to set the clutch side bearing depth.
 
Your new crank case appears to have a straight impulse nipple so I'm guessing it's tapped for M5 recoil housing screws?.....Is the original case M4 or M5 recoil ?
That is a good question, and i have no idea. I know two of the holes are stripped and theres a chance the other two holes have been tapped for a different screw... I'll check tomorrow, is there another way you know of to see what the housing was originally? I don't know all those little details like what you said about it having a straight impulse nipple.
 
I wouldn’t replace the pin bearing unless something obviously wrong with it. They seem to last forever.

I‘d replace the main bearings myself. First off, you are in there already. The Fly side is standard 6202, so like $8. The PTO is proprietary, so around $20-25.

Secondly, the reason for the bearings is that the plastic cages usually melt a bit from the heat of disassembly, at least for me. When I disassemble a newish saw for some reason, and the bearing is new, I actually disassemble the bearing first to prevent destruction of the cage and any side load on the balls. Then I heat case and pound out the outer race. I know, OCD is a bummer.
 

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