044 question

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Timbercutter

Timbercutter

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380LGR said:
Yes you can put the big bore kit on as long as your wrist pin is the 12mm,not the older 10mm. Also make shure your lower end bearing are good grab the crank and see if it wiggles up and down.


Ok so I want know about the 12mm or 10mm until I tear the motor down?
 
ciscoguy01

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Timbercutter said:
Ok so I want know about the 12mm or 10mm until I tear the motor down?

The kit comes with the pins you need. Match up the Serial number on the saw and you should be all set... It's all at the link I posted previously.
 
380LGR

380LGR

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044

I have done the kits on 5-044's and on 3-046's. I think the 044's (With the BB kit) cut muuuch faster than the stock 046's. Also chuck the stock 7 tooh rim sprocket and get a 8 tooth. That right there will make it cut much faster!!
 
Timbercutter

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380LGR said:
I have done the kits on 5-044's and on 3-046's. I think the 044's (With the BB kit) cut muuuch faster than the stock 046's. Also chuck the stock 7 tooh rim sprocket and get a 8 tooth. That right there will make it cut much faster!!


I didn't know that about the sprockets never paid them any mind.
 
hautions11

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The Serial Number is the key here are the words in the Bailey's catelog. The SN is right next to the muffler outlet.

Aftermarket kit fits the popular Stihl 044 (MS440) saws. The piston and cylinder has been oversized from 50mm to 52mm to give you more displacement, which should give your saw a boost in power. This kit includes a piston, rings, pins and a cylinder. We recommend purchasing a gasket set (item CRS 044) and piston ring clamp set (item 10429) when assembling this kit.

Fits saws (after serial number 29 382 283) with 12mm (.472") piston pins. See image above for Serial Number location.
 
tek9tim

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Timbercutter said:
I didn't know that about the sprockets never paid them any mind.


If you really mean this in totallity, you really need to do some research. Check out: http://www.madsens1.com/sproktun.htm and be sure to read it all. Good stuff.

Yeah, that saw is a perfect candidate for the big bore. Should have quite a bit more power over stock, because the saws before 1485xxxxx had a different port design, and thus had something more like 5.0 hp rather than 5.4. Then add on a bigger bore, and you'll be logging.
 
fishhuntcutwood

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tek9tim said:
If you really mean this in totallity, you really need to do some research. Check out: http://www.madsens1.com/sproktun.htm and be sure to read it all. Good stuff.

Good point. A 32" bar, even on a 044 BB is less than ideal for an 8 pin. All the speed in the world won't mean squat if you're bogged out.

Another good post Tim. :clap:
 
ciscoguy01

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tek9tim said:
If you really mean this in totallity, you really need to do some research. Check out: http://www.madsens1.com/sproktun.htm and be sure to read it all. Good stuff.

Yeah, that saw is a perfect candidate for the big bore. Should have quite a bit more power over stock, because the saws before 1485xxxxx had a different port design, and thus had something more like 5.0 hp rather than 5.4. Then add on a bigger bore, and you'll be logging.

Sooo, after all the remarks on hp for the 044 today, I called stihl with my Serial# and asked them about production, years made, hp etc... I spoke with a dude named Mark from there. He said only the saws made before 1994 were less than 5.4hp. They stayed 5.4hp from '94 until they went to MS440, which they say is the same saw really with different a different model number and some newer features. Pre 1994 was 129583701, so anything after that was the 5.4hp saw. According to him, the break in the serial number aforementioned was the key, hence the different porting or carb stuff they did, he wasn't positive about exactly what they did different. But also said the earlier ones were 5.3hp. Also, by mfg area, the 1 means made in germany, the 2 means made in U.S. and the 3 means made in Brazil. Just a little FYI for everyone. I've got more details about the 056 if anyone is interested also.
Also, If I remember correctly, he said that the cylinder size went from 48mm to 50mm, that was another difference. I'm calling them back, I love talking to those guys, they are really helpful and friendly.
 
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Timbercutter

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Cut4fun said:
I agree here, I run a 7T with my 32" even on my modded 7900. I only run the 8T on my 20" and under.


I will always run the 20" bar not much need here for anything bigger maybe ever once and awhile a 24" bar..Thats why I had never paid the sprockets any mind.
 

Monk

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just out of curosity did you check what the compression was before you decided it needed rebuilt the exhaust side alot of the time will look like that from the friction that is involved. If it felt like it had good compression I think a rebuild might be the wrong thing to do it sounds like you have dirt under the needle valve and are flooding it out right away never giving it a chance to start. I would check the compression first if I were u.

Just my 2 cents
 
Cedarkerf

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switched to 8 tooth years ago on 28 inch bar and full skip chisel good increase in speed I've never had bogging problems from the saws end of the bargain. This is also used in mostly doug fir ,cedar and alder. This also is the older lower hp 044.
 
Timbercutter

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Monk said:
just out of curosity did you check what the compression was before you decided it needed rebuilt the exhaust side alot of the time will look like that from the friction that is involved. If it felt like it had good compression I think a rebuild might be the wrong thing to do it sounds like you have dirt under the needle valve and are flooding it out right away never giving it a chance to start. I would check the compression first if I were u.

Just my 2 cents

Granted when it comes to the motor I'm all new to working on it,but my stihl dealer felt it needed rebuilt,and It wouldn't even hit with a shot of starting fluid,but I will do a little more cking before I order my parts. Thanks
 
ciscoguy01

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fishhuntcutwood said:
Whaddya got? Anything besides bores and similarities to the 045?

Sooooo, what I'm getting is the 056 Mag AVEQ, also called Mag II:dizzy: . Mark said it's 93.6cc, 5kW/6.7hp. The others were slightly less. When I find the rest of what I wrote down I'll give you more. That's what I remember off the top of my head and i'm not home to look at what I wrote. He did tell me Piston size, stroke, etc... But I can't remember

Oh yea, just thought of this, the 056 went in hp from 6.03 up to the 6.7hp that was their final build.
 
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Monk

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Granted when it comes to the motor I'm all new to working on it,but my stihl dealer felt it needed rebuilt,and It wouldn't even hit with a shot of starting fluid,but I will do a little more cking before I order my parts. Thanks

I am not trying to step on anybodys toes just trying to save you a few bucks I recently had the same problem that is why I am suggesting you check it out I did everything you did ether all that stuff I figured it was blown until I talked to a friend of mine that works on the stuff and he told me to tear the carb off and clean out from under the needle. I checked the compression first it was good so I tore the carb apart cleaned it blew every thing out with ether ( if you do this take the diaphrams off clean them with gas not ether dries them out if u use ether) put it back togethor 2 pulls fired up and has been running good since.
 
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