046 cylinder question

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pelhamjeff

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2007
Messages
366
Reaction score
105
Location
alabama
Howdy folks. I have an 046 I'm trying to get going. The cylinder had a lot of metal transfer, which I have removed with emory cloth. It's smooth when you run your finger over it right above the exhaust port, but it also looks like I went through the chrome or nikasil or whatever it is. I'm hoping to put an OEM piston in it and have a runner, but 20231129_084827.jpg20231129_084839.jpg20231129_084839.jpgI'd like to know what you guys would do. I took the best pics I could. Any and all 20231129_084853.jpgadvice is app20231129_084839.jpgreciated!
 

Attachments

  • 20231129_084906.jpg
    20231129_084906.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • 20231129_084901.jpg
    20231129_084901.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
Looks bad from the pics, I run a offset pick over the plating to get a feel for the finish and then try it on the questionable area, see if it scratches the dull aluminum colored patches, its either smeared aluminum or the plating is gone. I can determine whether its aluminum smear by feeling for an edge with the pick. The aluminum smear is higher built up than the plating on the cylinder wall.
 
Hi sorry to hijack this post but I'm struggling to navigate to where I can make a post. I am wondering if yall can help me verify how many cc the stihl 064AV is. I have found 85cc and 91.6cc but idk which is correct I know somebody here will know for sure
 
If I put a piston in that cylinder and get, say, 160 PSI, what's wrong with running it? What will be the consequences of having those 2 little areas where I polished through the chrome if it seals and runs good? Just asking because I have rarely cleaned up cylinders in the past..
 
Ok, I did what Pioneerguy advised. As I moved the pick from the dull gray area to the shiny area surrounding it, a piece of the chrome peeled up. So I don't know how that cylinder could last very long like it is. I'm not springing for OEM parts, so would anybody like to share their opinion about Meteor? Hyway? Some other brand I haven't heard of? Thanks Pioneerguy600!
 
Ok, I did what Pioneerguy advised. As I moved the pick from the dull gray area to the shiny area surrounding it, a piece of the chrome peeled up. So I don't know how that cylinder could last very long like it is. I'm not springing for OEM parts, so would anybody like to share their opinion about Meteor? Hyway? Some other brand I haven't heard of? Thanks Pioneerguy600!
I built my ms460 a couple years ago, put a meteor setup on it trying to save a buck. It ran ok but I pulled it back apart and put a oem p/c on it and there was a good bit of difference in torque. I'd suggest finding a used jug and stuffing a new piston in it.
 
The AM sets may run and some last a while but I have yet to see an AM set perform as good as OEM, the AM stuff is just a cheaper fix for less performance and shorter lifespan, some are just pityful when critical measurements are made in squish, compression ,transfer shapes and area of flow with poor timing numbers.
 
Looks like you have some areas where you never got the transfer off and some where you went through the plating.

You could make sure you did get all the transfer off and ignore the missing plating. It is above the port so I would not think it would perform like a new saw. But, it is not a new saw.

Sometimes I wonder about these guys resurrecting the dead. If you want a new saw go buy a new saw.

If you want one back to new go spend enough on OEM parts to buy a new saw.

If you want to cut some wood , throw the thing back together and see what happens. Might surprise you.
 
I like going super cheap and getting farmertec cylinders or going OEM. OEM is the best of course and everything else may need the ports cleaned up and/or timing numbers adjusted. if I get a cheap cylinder I always plan on porting it anyways.
 
Hi sorry to hijack this post but I'm struggling to navigate to where I can make a post. I am wondering if yall can help me verify how many cc the stihl 064AV is. I have found 85cc and 91.6cc but idk which is correct I know somebody here will know for sure
85cc and narrower in the body. Many say it's one of Stihls finest. With mods a 066 /660 p&c can be fitted to make it 91.6 but then it is not a true 064
 
Looks like you have some areas where you never got the transfer off and some where you went through the plating.
I couldn't really tell from the photos if that was missing plating or more transfer. However there are some other area that still look like transfer.

One other thought... Unlike the aluminum piston, the plating is silicon carbide and super hard. If any of that plating came loose and found its way to the bearings you may have a bigger problem than just the top end.
 
If you can flake off the chrome I would not use it, waist of time and money, you are better off using Hyway with caber rings or meteor, I have had no problem with them over the last couple of years, I don't mess with the exhaust or intack but do knife out the lower base transfers on ones that have them, and if the squish is to much I do have a lathe- this is IMO, and I do build a lot of older pro saws
 
I couldn't really tell from the photos if that was missing plating or more transfer. However there are some other area that still look like transfer.

One other thought... Unlike the aluminum piston, the plating is silicon carbide and super hard. If any of that plating came loose and found its way to the bearings you may have a bigger problem than just the top end.

That patch above the right side of the exhaust port is missing plating, Looks to me.
Most of the rest is residual transfer, Looks to me.

I suppose if he goes about getting the rest of that transfer off the same way there will be a bunch more missing plating.
 
That patch above the right side of the exhaust port is missing plating, Looks to me.
Most of the rest is residual transfer, Looks to me.

I suppose if he goes about getting the rest of that transfer off the same way there will be a bunch more missing plating.
Which would do what if I just replace the piston? What's the chance that the plating surrounding that patch would just stay where it is? I picture the oil getting under the chrome and bubbling it up and causing more problems, but since I've never done it, I don't know. Have you tried to use a cylinder that's missing some chrome?
 
Which would do what if I just replace the piston? What's the chance that the plating surrounding that patch would just stay where it is? I picture the oil getting under the chrome and bubbling it up and causing more problems, but since I've never done it, I don't know. Have you tried to use a cylinder that's missing some chrome?

You can't leave any aluminum transfer in there. It will hang in your rings and stick them pretty quick.

As far as you missing chrome, I'm wondering if you weren't chasing a scratch instead of transfer.

I have run them with plating missing, usually around the edges of the ports. Nothing came of it.

But, that's a pretty big patch you are missing. and, you still have transfer to get out.

So, it's like an hour of your time and a $30 Chinese piston experiment.

Or, OEM, or Meteor, or Chinese, or used OEM from ebay or wherever.

Go to Lowes and get you some Muratic acid. Careful not to breath a bunch of it take a Qtip and put it on the spots in there. If it turns green and bubbles there is still aluminum there.

Keep it off the spot that you think the plating is already gone.
 
You can't leave any aluminum transfer in there. It will hang in your rings and stick them pretty quick.

As far as you missing chrome, I'm wondering if you weren't chasing a scratch instead of transfer.

I have run them with plating missing, usually around the edges of the ports. Nothing came of it.

But, that's a pretty big patch you are missing. and, you still have transfer to get out.

So, it's like an hour of your time and a $30 Chinese piston experiment.

Or, OEM, or Meteor, or Chinese, or used OEM from ebay or wherever.

Go to Lowes and get you some Muratic acid. Careful not to breath a bunch of it take a Qtip and put it on the spots in there. If it turns green and bubbles there is still aluminum there.

Keep it off the spot that you think the plating is already gone.
I think that's what I'm going to do on this saw. I have many saws and can afford to do some R&D on one of them. If that sketchy jug doesn't work out, I'll replace it. Thank you for all your advice!
 
I think that's what I'm going to do on this saw. I have many saws and can afford to do some R&D on one of them. If that sketchy jug doesn't work out, I'll replace it. Thank you for all your advice!
I like that idea throw a cheap piston in there and run it after you clean it up. people forget that there was bare aluminum cylinders at one time.
 
Back
Top