046 Magnum Cutting Circles

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Throwing a chain can bend the bar, too.  It's amazing how much stomping it can take to get the bow out afterwards.
 
It's moot since you're banned (after one post!), I guess, but think "bow" instead of "kink".

Next time you throw a chain take a moment to sight down the bar and you'll probably see what I'm talking about.
 
glens said:
Throwing a chain can bend the bar, too.  It's amazing how much stomping it can take to get the bow out afterwards.


So, it is ok to bend the bar back to straight? I sat the bar on a level surface and it did tip over, I ground the rails until it would stand straight, I used my machinist square and it is now square. I then measured the gap in the rails and it measured .070 +/- .002. I am running a .063 chain, what should the tolerance be. Is there a way to close the gap without buying something.

With the help you guys have been giving me, I might cut a straight line after all.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
mswabbie said:
I then measured the gap in the rails and it measured .070 +/- .002. I am running a .063 chain, what should the tolerance be.

Thanks


Bar .070'' - .063'' chain = .007'' of free play

I am not a bar expert however unless your chain would be extremely worn I would take this to be very acceptable.

NOTE: Unless the chain drivers themselves riding in the bar groove are abnormally worn.
 
Here we go again. I squared the rails, sighted down the rails, the bar is straight and true. I sharpened the chain. Went out and made some cuts on a twenty inch hickory log. I made two cuts, the cuts were crooked to the left. I then turned the bar over, made two more cuts and they were also crooked to the left. Put a 30" bar and chain on, made two more cuts, these cuts were straight as a arrow. Any thoughts.

Another question. The 046 after a short time running, the bar and chain are to hot to touch, am getting plenty of oil, I really didn't think a saw should run this hot.
 
Put your old bar back on and install a new chain, make 2 cuts again in the same log.

If it cuts straight its the chain, if it cuts to the left its the bar.

If you do not want to buy a new chain borrow the same size and lenght loop from someone else and run the test.
 
Use a new chain for sure if you are trying to sort out the problem. If it has run crooked long enough to wear the bar rails uneven it will have worn down one side of the chains tie straps and cutters more than the other; even if you do a perfect job of sharpening it is almost guaranteed to run off. If your chain and bar is heating the chain is dull or not oiling. There are different opinions about what is sharp.
 
Could be the bar groove walls are not parallel even though most everything else checks out okay.
 
be sure the right side teeth are not longer (taller) or sharper or both than the left causing them to cut more and lead the bar to the left. .005" consistant difference is enough to make a difference. could be the rakers on the left side are taller causing that side to cut less and lead left. or a combination of both. sometimes a chain needs to be sharpened and squarred on a machine. let us know if you get it figured out.
 
1953greg
That theory sounds reasonable, except for the fact that the cutters excursions into the wood involve cutting out as well as down with each cycle. The end grain is the hardest to sever and a dull tooth will always cut narrower. The cut veers away from the less efficient side.
 

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