050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[Rockfarmer]

My program shows the original as a 1111 647 9001 for all 050,051,075,075 with a change to 9000 in 74 and 78. What it does not show is the style of pump you have with the longer "dog ear" part of the pump. I'm going to guess your 9000 oil ring will work just fine. Follow BB advice and run
The saw (if it will) and look in the tank with a flash lite Nd look for bubbles. I'm
Not sure what to say. I know it's a semi common problem and I would be more suspect of the case gasket. Good luck!!

 

[Fairbanks]

I'll trust brother alaska on that one but did not test it out as I found one with the dog ear. The ear was to thick and would prohibited the pump from going in all the way. Just barely unable to get retaining clip in. I shaved some rubber off the bottom side and every thing seems to be working.

 

[Fairbanks]

When I pull the oil cap oil is rolling. Almost like the outside edges of whirlpools I see on the copper River. Not really bubbly though. No hydro lock or bad smoking after she's been sitting so it's probably from the vibrations created from the raw power associated with these insane tree killers.

 

[Rockfarmer]

Going through my pumps I found two with dog ears. As you mentioned though they were sort of shaved down as I imagine the previous owner may have had the same troubles. So the pump only runs when the chain is spinning I suspect you are right that the movement is caused by vibration of these insane tree killers! Love it!

 

[kwhite87]

I recently got my 051 spark back with a universal ignition trigger, but for some reason, now I can't get the switch to work. I have it installed as per instructions. Trigger module itself, two prong, one going to ground other going to coil wire and the one going to the coil wire has a splitter,with one going right to the switch. I have tried moving things around and tried switching grounds. I also tried grounding the module to the switch instead of its own ground. I also tried a new switch.

I'm stuck

 

[Rockfarmer]

I'm confused I need a pic. Usually we use a one tab remote trigger that is grounded by the body. The on tab wire is connected to the original trigger wire that is seperate from the switch wire. I don't see how can connect any wire to the coil wire ( which I consider the spark plug wire). Please clarify

 

[kwhite87]

I'm confused I need a pic. Usually we use a one tab remote trigger that is grounded by the body. The on tab wire is connected to the original trigger wire that is seperate from the switch wire. I don't see how can connect any wire to the coil wire ( which I consider the spark plug wire). Please clarify

OK you're right, wrong terminology.

I have the trigger module connected to the wire that was originally going to the original trigger. It comes from the module, splits, then one goes to the switch and other to the ignition Coil via trigger wire. Does that make more sense?

 

[Rockfarmer]

Yes! Now unfortunately I can't tell you why your switch does not work. The good news is that you do have spark and can choke it to shut her down. I have seen guys take the original circular trigger that was behind the flywheel and mount them on the rear handle heat shield. It does not need to be behind the flywheel. I suspect that you have the wrong trigger as its a 2 tab not a single tab but I could be entirely wrong. I would just use the choke as your kill until you get it figured out

 

[kwhite87]

Anyone else.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

How does it "split"? Sounds like the switch is just hanging off the side of the circuit and not really in line to actually short it to ground as it should.

 

[sefh3]

When I used a universal trigger before, I had to use a different type of toggle switch. The OEM wouldn't shut it off.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Aha! Probably one that broke the circuit vs. just grounding it would be my guess.

(Nice to see ya, Scott!)

 

[sefh3]

Yes it was a small 2 pole toggle switch and it worked just fine.
I actually have that saw on the bench now. No start. Fuel line is shot. It was lost in the move and stayed in a box for over a year with fuel left in it.

Hi Poge!!! How's things!!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

All cool here at the ol' Pogerosa. Finally got a nice runner out of all the 019T's after spending some time figuring then out....which took some head scratchin'.
They make a Mini Mac seem like a well thought out design!

Good to hear ya found time to get a bench going after the move.

 

[sefh3]

My switch is similar to this one.

 

[kwhite87]

Thanks. Both the ones I had were single tab not double. I'll trythat

 

[sefh3]

Thanks. Both the ones I had were single tab not double. I'll trythat

Any luck with this yet?

 

[cwmntgm]

Have been reading this thread with great interest, but haven't had a need to chime in until now. You guys have encyclopedic minds!

I have an 051 that I have rebuilt (new p/c, carb, gaskets etc). Have everything together now, holds 160psi, which I am thrilled with. However, it is not drawing gas to the (brand new) carb. New fuel lines, filter, even sucked on the carb intake fuel line to make sure it draws fuel (it does with no effort required). Anyhow, it has spark, because when I dump some fuel directly into the carb, it fires and runs until that gas is burned off; never pulls any more out of the tank!

Any suggestions?? I need to get this beast up and milling. My log pile is starting to outgrow its environment!

 

[president]

could very well be an air leak that will rob the vacume
needed to operate the fuel diaphragm.check the gaskets and
tightness of the heat block to carb and block to powerhead
and make sure that the impulse passage in the block is not
restricted by the gasket .Its hard to see but there is an allen
screw on the left side that seems to loosen .Use blue locktight
on those screws and tighten down carb mounting screws well

 

[cwmntgm]

Thats great advice. The gasket (#9 in the photo) between the carb and the filter housing (#10 in the image) is pretty ratty, but I'm thinking that shouldn't be the reason, as there is no need to hold any pressure at that nd more just for keeping gunk out. Is my thinking correct here?

Also, the filter housing itself has a hairline crack in it, that extends about an inch on either side of the carb hole. Again, I'm thinking thats not an issue because there's no pressure/vacuum being held there. Just logic I've come to on my own, but I'm pretty much all self taught on small engines, so could be way off.

As far as the impulse passage, I'm trying to form a mental picture, as my saw is not on hand. There is an impulse passage on the heat block (which I assume is #4 in the photo?) that can be covered by the gasket (#7)? If that's the case, I haven't checked that, and could be the issue.

As far as the screws go, I have been torquing them pretty good, but I know these old buggers shake like crazy, so wouldn't hurt to go over them again. I'm not sure of the allen screw you are referring to 'on the left side'. Any chance you could provide a bit more detail?

Thanks again for the suggestions! I've got my Friday morning cut out for me now!

point, a