1/3 rule

[spacemule]

I've seen talk on here lately of the 1/3 rule. I must admit I've never used such a rule. I always looked closely at a tree and determined where I thought the tree would balance when placing a vertical line through it. Then, I would just make sure and place my hinge behind this imaginary line. It always worked.

With some trees, this would involve placing the hinge as much as 1/2 way into the trunk. With others, it might be as little as 1/5. Am I off base?

Don't make fun of my picture.

 

[taplinhill]

Thats probably not a bad way to look at it.
And your drawing looks like something from South Park.

 

[Booshcat]

Oh My God Space Just Killed Kenny....

I agree, all the diagrams are just representations when you get to the real thing.
CG and wind to name a couple

 

[Kenskip1]

Center of Balance

Not a bad drawing for a collage man.However their are several factors that will contribute to a successful crashing conclusion.

1.Objects close to your desired spot.That State Police car may be in the line of fire.
2.Type of hinge. Humboldt or Scandinavian?
3.Wind speed and direction. Was the wind blowing from the south or the east.
4. Is your little "Wild thing" up to the challenge?
5. Is this a conifer, or a deciduous? This is a hot one.Oak,Maple,ext.
6 Just bustin ya Rex.... Ken

 

[stevethekiwi]

im not so sure.

if the center of balance is through the centre of the tree (ie the tree is vertical), id never put the hinge behind that imaginary line. asking for a bar pinch on the first cut and sweet F A controll

better to go a bit shallower and use a few wedges

 

[spacemule]

im not so sure.

if the center of balance is through the centre of the tree (ie the tree is vertical), id never put the hinge behind that imaginary line. asking for a bar pinch on the first cut and sweet F A controll

better to go a bit shallower and use a few wedges

True, a bit of common sense is needed.

 

[Tzed250]

That picture is hilarious!!!

 

[spacemule]

You all are just jealous of my picture making skills!

 

[volks-man]

You all are just jealous of my picture making skills!

i think it is a fine picture.

i think it would make a spiffy avatar.

"happy little trees" -Ross-

 

[Old Monkey]

Rex, the only time I change the depth of my hinge to undermine the center of gravity is when I'm falling the last 20' of trunk. I would never recommend doing that on on a full sized tree.

 

[spacemule]

Rex, the only time I change the depth of my hinge to undermine the center of gravity is when I'm falling the last 20' of trunk. I would never recommend doing that on on a full sized tree.

So, you always go a 1/3 with a full tree?

 

[Nailsbeats]

Rex, the only time I change the depth of my hinge to undermine the center of gravity is when I'm falling the last 20' of trunk. I would never recommend doing that on on a full sized tree.

+1 on that. Doing that on a tree puts you in an all or nothing situation, very easy to get pinched right away and have the tree go backwards, all it takes is a little gust of wind. Also this technique does not leave much room for a wedge on some trees and gives you less leverage when using a wedge because the hinge is closer to the wedge.

For trees, standard practice should be a notch depth of 1/3 or less and use a wedge if it's questionable.

If the trees in question are like that goofy little picture, the 1/2 notch will make the tree start falling quicker and put you at more of a risk of a barber chair. Less notch is desireable in that situation especially. If it's leaning more then you should use a bore cut and trip it, then you don't have to try to keep up with the cut and risk a barber chair once again.

Do whatever works for you, but I assure you that if you fall enough trees with a 1/2 notch, it will come back to bight you.

 

[spacemule]

+1 on that. Doing that on a tree puts you in an all or nothing situation, very easy to get pinched right away and have the tree go backwards, all it takes is a little gust of wind. Also this technique does not leave much room for a wedge on some trees and gives you less leverage when using a wedge because the hinge is closer to the wedge.

For trees, standard practice should be a notch depth of 1/3 or less and use a wedge if it's questionable.

Do whatever works for you, but I assure you that if you fall enough trees with a 1/2 notch, it will come back to bight you.

Haven't cut in a while--just a firewood cutter. I didn't cut if it was windy. I didn't cut too many hollow trees. I never used a wedge. I cut very few trees halfway in--maybe 1 in 15. I nearly always fell trees in the direction of the lean.

I say I put the hinge behind the balance point, but that is probably a slight exaggeration. When I cut the notch, I wouldn't go much further after the notch began closing up. The main point of my picture was that the lean of the tree affected how big a notch I made. On a leaning tree, it would make me uncomfortable to cut 1/3 of the way in. Just some ramblings of an inexperienced hack.

 

[Nailsbeats]

The 1/3 rule is mainly just to get your hinge width to 80% of the diameter of the tree. This gives you a strong hinge with good control. 1/3 notch is just easier to remember. If a tree is odd shaped you may have to adjust your notch depth to get the hinge to the 80%, but never go over 1/2.

If you don't notch in far enough your hinge will not be wide enough and the sides of it will peel down resulting in tearing and damage to the butt log. Just something to think about.

 

[ropensaddle]

Space keep that up and you will be the next H Ross Perot
You need a pointing stick though lol

 

[Burvol]

Great Big snags are about all I cut more than a third in. They don't strap well, so the next choice is a deep face. I like your picture by way

 

[Old Monkey]

So, you always go a 1/3 with a full tree?

I learned to fall trees in the Forest Service and the rule was 1/4 to 1/3 depending on the circumstances of the tree. On heavy leaners you go with a much smaller face because if you try for 1/3 you'll get pinched. I hate to say it all depends on the circumstances but it does.

 

[oldsaw]

I've seen talk on here lately of the 1/3 rule. I must admit I've never used such a rule. I always looked closely at a tree and determined where I thought the tree would balance when placing a vertical line through it. Then, I would just make sure and place my hinge behind this imaginary line. It always worked.

With some trees, this would involve placing the hinge as much as 1/2 way into the trunk. With others, it might be as little as 1/5. Am I off base?

Don't make fun of my picture.

No "pro", but that looks like a great barberchair candidate. I would use a shallower than normal notch, then bore cut the tree. If it were straighter, I would go somewhat as you are saying.

Mark

PS: It looks like the tree is waving it's arms for help...."help me, I'm falling and I can't get up"

 

[Taxmantoo]

I've been here a month and still haven't figured it out.
What's a 'barberchair'?

 

[OneStaple]

taxmantoo - I'm definitely still learning this too, but from what I understand, a barber chair is when you don't get a clean horizontal break along the hinge when you're dropping a tree. Instead, a chunk of the tree stays attached and bends as it falls or breaks much further up, often elevating the trunk well off the ground.

I'm sure some of the guys here with more experience can explain it better, as well as how to avoid them (they're quite dangerous from what I understand).

Here's a random picture I took from a web page so you can get an idea of what it looks like. Hope that helps.

--Tyler