1999 Dodge 3500 4x4

[Moss Man]

I looked at a newer firewood delivery truck today, just rolling around the idea of upgrading after I found some terminal cancer on the 87 GMC.

1999 Dodge Regular Cab 4x4 Dually, Cummins Diesel, Auto Tranny, Platform dump/electric over hydraulic, 5th wheel hitch, 9' Fisher MM plow and a large self contained sander. The cab is loaded with options and it has 53,000 miles. There is some rust on the platform, but it isn't bad. Needs tires and an alignment as the owner just had the front end gone over.

I know very little about Dodge trucks, never had one. He wants 12 grand for the whole set up. Book prices are hard to nail down on one ton duallys.

Worth it?

 

[bigbadbob]

Go to this link and poke around http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/index.php
I have a 98.5 3/4 ton same driveline. Some people had issues with the injection pump and lift pump, front end is not the best, torque converter is not the best. I have changed my conveter and added a shift kit, have had not problems with the front end and my injection pump is still good.
175,000 kilometers or 110,000 miles. Can't help you with the price.
98 and older (the twelve valve) or 03 and newer (common rail injection)are better trucks.

 

[funky sawman]

Those older auto trannys are plane junk as they dont hold up to the power that the cummings pumps out. Get manual tranny only for firewooden.

 

[stihlkicken]

same set up.

I have a 2001,24v.6spd.so far,clutch went out,installed ceramic.lift pump and injection pump were toast,installed fass 150 and hot rod injection pump.bigger injectors,bigger turbo,5 inch pipe from turbo,afe air intake and this truck runs fine.spent some cash getting this pickup repaired and running how it should,but towing or running wise, it will embarrass any 50 thousand dollar new pickup,any brand.

 

[Moss Man]

Sounds like repairing the rust on the 87 GMC 3500 is the better route, I never have any real big problems with it and when I do it's cheap to repair. When I got it I went with the standard 4-speed 350 with manual locking hubs, just as simple as you can get.Parts a readily available and cheap and the rig is simple enough so I can do most repairs myself.

That 5.9 Diesel is just so torquey...........I had a weak moment!

 

[046]

to begin with 12v Cummins (88-98) are MUCH better trucks. a low mileage 12v will sell for more than 24valve cummins (98.5-2002) which had weak/expensive fuel injection/lift pump ($1500+ parts alone) issues. can be worked around by installing a FASS pump and fuel pressure gauge. google VP44 for more details.

common rail cummins (2003-current) are much better trucks. 2003-2004 are notorious for dropping valves. 2004.5 w/6sp are the best CR cummins. newest cummins with diesel particulate filters are more fuel sensitive and get less mpg.

ALL modern trucks (not just dodge) without grease zerts on balljoints are prone to early failure. it's planned obsolescence pure and simple.

it's not unusual for a brand new truck with 6,000 miles need all new balljoints. after market balljoints have grease zerts, if maintained ... will run next to forever.

best years for Dodge Cummins is 1997 12v or 98 12v. 1997 was the last full production year for 12v and had all the bugs worked out. 98 12v has the little rear doors ... if you've got young kids that need a car seat.

much .. much more information on Diesel Truck Resources.
there's a proper way to drive automatic transmission Cummins trucks. more on that later if anyone wants to know.

I looked at a newer firewood delivery truck today, just rolling around the idea of upgrading after I found some terminal cancer on the 87 GMC.

1999 Dodge Regular Cab 4x4 Dually, Cummins Diesel, Auto Tranny, Platform dump/electric over hydraulic, 5th wheel hitch, 9' Fisher MM plow and a large self contained sander. The cab is loaded with options and it has 53,000 miles. There is some rust on the platform, but it isn't bad. Needs tires and an alignment as the owner just had the front end gone over.

I know very little about Dodge trucks, never had one. He wants 12 grand for the whole set up. Book prices are hard to nail down on one ton duallys.

Worth it?

 

[Tree Pig]

Those older auto trannys are plane junk as they dont hold up to the power that the cummings pumps out. Get manual tranny only for firewooden.

Ive got a 2001 thats hauled a 8000 lb trailer for years and tons and tons of wood. Have had no problems with tranny. The truck you are talking about has tons of un tapped power. If still stock the tranny should hold up. If you do any mods you will need a better tranny. I have exhaust and chip on mine and after 9 years its still strong (bought in 2000). Not sure on the price seems high for a 1999 reg cab but it is coming with tons of stuff and low miles so could be a decent deal. Check the bottom of the doors though they are famous for rotting there

 

[K7NUT]

to begin with 12v Cummins (88-98) are MUCH better trucks. a low mileage 12v will sell for more than 24valve cummins (98.5-2002) which had weak/expensive fuel injection/lift pump ($1500+ parts alone) issues. can be worked around by installing a FASS pump and fuel pressure gauge. google VP44 for more details.

common rail cummins (2003-current) are much better trucks. 2003-2004 are notorious for dropping valves. 2004.5 w/6sp are the best CR cummins. newest cummins with diesel particulate filters are more fuel sensitive and get less mpg.

ALL modern trucks (not just dodge) without grease zerts on balljoints are prone to early failure. it's planned obsolescence pure and simple.

it's not unusual for a brand new truck with 6,000 miles need all new balljoints. after market balljoints have grease zerts, if maintained ... will run next to forever.

best years for Dodge Cummins is 1997 12v or 98 12v. 1997 was the last full production year for 12v and had all the bugs worked out. 98 12v has the little rear doors ... if you've got young kids that need a car seat.

much .. much more information on Diesel Truck Resources.
there's a proper way to drive automatic transmission Cummins trucks. more on that later if anyone wants to know.

I want to know more....!
I have a 96' and I have been through the transmission troubles already. I have heard that these 12v engines are better, you can pump them up quite nicely if you wanted to? Anyway, I would like to know more, I love my truck, my wife is not so fond of "the money pit" though
It's not still sitting in my neighbors field!<BR>
<BR>
<img src="http://mcallisterdrywall.com/AS/3-12-2009/stuck3.JPG">

 

[046]

97 12v upgraded trans to 47RE... 96 should have 47RH.

how to drive a cummins with auto requires a basic understanding of where power band generates max torque and how this effects your transmission.

over simplified, your auto tranny works on hydraulics which requires certain amount of RPM to generate enough pressures to operate properly.

your cummins develops max torque at aprox. 1600 rpm. this generates barely enough speed for your auto tranny to operate. Now combine this situation pulling say a 20k+ load. this combination is not healthy for your transmission.

solution is to keep your RPM up when pulling a load. I've routinely pulled 20k+ loads in my 97 CTD with auto ... no problems. try to stay over 2,000 rpm

one also needs to understand how torque converters work. meaning they are constantly slipping... that's what they were design to do. what one needs to pay attention to is when lock up occurs.

when your RPM drops 600 rpm or so, that's when lockup has occurred. very important NOT to accelerate during lockup. allow lockup to occur, then stomp the fuel.

to do list to make your auto tranny live:

1. change out to synthetic fluid
2. adjust clutch bands
3. keep RPM up when towing (turn off overdrive at lower speeds)
4. don't accelerate during torque converter lockup

naturally it's best upgrade to triple disc torque converter and have your tranny built by Goerands. but if you don't have the $4k+ to invest.

do the above and get max life out of your stock tranny
or better yet... find a cummins truck with a 5sp

I want to know more....!
I have a 96' and I have been through the transmission troubles already. I have heard that these 12v engines are better, you can pump them up quite nicely if you wanted to? Anyway, I would like to know more, I love my truck, my wife is not so fond of "the money pit" though
It's not still sitting in my neighbors field!<BR>
<BR>
<img src="http://mcallisterdrywall.com/AS/3-12-2009/stuck3.JPG">

 

[Moss Man]

I am all about standard transmissions, but by getting an automatic my wife can make firewood deliveries when I am tied up doing other things. It's unfortunate that she can't drive a standard, but at 43 she isn't likely to become efficient at it short term.

Today I am working on the 87 GMC in hopes to get one more inspection sticker before it rusts out of control.

 

[046]

wouldn't worry about getting an auto cummins truck. it's the dreaded 98.5-2002, 24valve series. you need to worry about.

with such low miles, that's a huge advantage. it may be worth investing in a FASS pump and gauges to get that super low mileage 24 valve truck.

personally would pass... but that's me. I see loads of 2003 common rail cummins truck come up for sale in $10-$13k range.

around here (tulsa)... you see all sorts of super nice 98.5-2002, 24 valve cummins for sale at dirt cheap prices. they typically will sell for $6500-$9000 range. most everyone has caught on to how much trouble these 24v series are and it's much hard to sell one.

vs a clean low mileage 12v will sell for more $$$...trouble is, everyone is looking for one of these.

I am all about standard transmissions, but by getting an automatic my wife can make firewood deliveries when I am tied up doing other things. It's unfortunate that she can't drive a standard, but at 43 she isn't likely to become efficient at it short term.

Today I am working on the 87 GMC in hopes to get one more inspection sticker before it rusts out of control.

 

[4seasons]

97 12v upgraded trans to 47RE... 96 should have 47RH.

how to drive a cummins with auto requires a basic understanding of where power band generates max torque and how this effects your transmission.

over simplified, your auto tranny works on hydraulics which requires certain amount of RPM to generate enough pressures to operate properly.

your cummins develops max torque at aprox. 1600 rpm. this generates barely enough speed for your auto tranny to operate. Now combine this situation pulling say a 20k+ load. this combination is not healthy for your transmission.

solution is to keep your RPM up when pulling a load. I've routinely pulled 20k+ loads in my 97 CTD with auto ... no problems. try to stay over 2,000 rpm

one also needs to understand how torque converters work. meaning they are constantly slipping... that's what they were design to do. what one needs to pay attention to is when lock up occurs.

when your RPM drops 600 rpm or so, that's when lockup has occurred. very important NOT to accelerate during lockup. allow lockup to occur, then stomp the fuel.

to do list to make your auto tranny live:

1. change out to synthetic fluid
2. adjust clutch bands
3. keep RPM up when towing (turn off overdrive at lower speeds)
4. don't accelerate during torque converter lockup

This is why I will never own another auto. Too much to go wrong, too much to worry about, too much trouble to maintain. I don't think the automatic transmission was developed as a convenience feature. It was put in cars so that people that can't drive and are too lazy to learn how can now just "Push this one to go, push this one to stop, turn that round thingy till it goes the way you want, LOOK MAW I'M DRIVING"
In case you haven't noticed people that can't drive are my pet peeve. If you got all these worthless slushboxes off the road and made people learn to drive a toothy tranny, we might have roadways filled with drivers instead of deathways full of accidents. I bought my wife a 5spd nissian BEFORE I married her so that I could make sure she could drive. Unfortunately with Obama's take over of the auto industry all new cars are now required to be sissified. But that is a topic for the political forum.

 

[StihltheOne]

My 96 12v is the one for me. It has all the "jewelry" under the hood. NO bottom to the power, just shift when I start to feel a bit sorry for the Eaton shafted 5 spd. Worst part is, I guess, is that the truck is almost like new, no kidding, just turned 100k miles, always covered in the shed, by the way, I own a detail shop, so it is absolutely not the firewood truck, I have an ol Ford for that duty. I would love to have obamas limo behind me just for a minute, I would give the 12v the onion and make that limo disappear in black smoke and likely give a bunch of do no gooders a heart attack!!!

 

[046]

your 96 12v sounds like one sweet truck!!!

hold on to that 5sp ... for some reason 3/4 ton dodge 12v cummins came mostly with auto tranny. seems most of the 5sp went to 1ton.

hardest to find are cummins 12v, 4x4, club cab, 5sp and low miles.
looked two years before finding my 96 CTD 12v, 4x4, club cab, 5sp with 67k miles. needless to say it's mint.

my 96 CTD is lightly bombed to 300+ HP with 5in exhaust. it'd be simple, bomb to 400hp, 1,000 ft lb torque. mine already has HD ceramic clutch and 5th gear fixed.

just got through tabbing my killer dowel pin. you need to also if it's not already done.

My 96 12v is the one for me. It has all the "jewelry" under the hood. NO bottom to the power, just shift when I start to feel a bit sorry for the Eaton shafted 5 spd. Worst part is, I guess, is that the truck is almost like new, no kidding, just turned 100k miles, always covered in the shed, by the way, I own a detail shop, so it is absolutely not the firewood truck, I have an ol Ford for that duty. I would love to have obamas limo behind me just for a minute, I would give the 12v the onion and make that limo disappear in black smoke and likely give a bunch of do no gooders a heart attack!!!

 

[StihltheOne]

your 96 12v sounds like one sweet truck!!!

hold on to that 5sp ... for some reason 3/4 ton dodge 12v cummins came mostly with auto tranny. seems most of the 5sp went to 1ton.

hardest to find are cummins 12v, 4x4, club cab, 5sp and low miles.
looked two years before finding my 96 CTD 12v, 4x4, club cab, 5sp with 67k miles. needless to say it's mint.

my 96 CTD is lightly bombed to 300+ HP with 5in exhaust. it'd be simple, bomb to 400hp, 1,000 ft lb torque. mine already has HD ceramic clutch and 5th gear fixed.

just got through tabbing my killer dowel pin. you need to also if it's not already done.

Please tell me about how you put a tab on the KDP. That is the only thing I worry about on the truck. It is a 96 club,4x4, 5spd, 3/4, #11 plate ,afc kit, bumped the timing to 15.5, the rest of the norm stuff. It runs strong, some seem better than others, I have been around a ton of them, this is one of the good ones. I just bought a 37' toy hauler, that outa make her grunt a bit!!

 

[046]

here's TST's kit for $65 with comes with a tab and new crank seal.
http://www.tstproducts.com/dowelpinrepairkitfor94-98.aspx

read the instructions, but it's not necessary to purchase their kit.
cummins dealer stocks the tab for $3. Napa has the crank seal kit with gasket for $37.

the TST uses a make a gasket which doesn't always seal due to gaps. much better to reuse old gasket with silicon sealer or new gsk.

most times there will be wear spot on crank, which requires a special oversize seal and sleeve kit for $85 from cummins dealer. one way around this is to press seal further, moving sealing surface to an undamaged area.

here's a better set of instructions. the object is to put the tear drop shape tab, blocking dowel (red arrow is pointing at dowel pin) from backing out.
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Dowel_Pin/bolt.htm

Please tell me about how you put a tab on the KDP. That is the only thing I worry about on the truck. It is a 96 club,4x4, 5spd, 3/4, #11 plate ,afc kit, bumped the timing to 15.5, the rest of the norm stuff. It runs strong, some seem better than others, I have been around a ton of them, this is one of the good ones. I just bought a 37' toy hauler, that outa make her grunt a bit!!