288 Throttle Lever

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Jimmy in NC

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Just picked up a 288 XP Lite and looking at the throttle lever, I believe it is worn out. Is this common on these saws? With the trigger pulled fully, you can move the butterfly an extra 1/8-3/16".

2013-01-31_07-56-38_354_zpsf361a415.jpg
 
This leads to many of those having a lean seizure - if the operator uses a tach to "tune" it. They lean it out to get to the max rpm spec because the throttle is not fully open.
 
This leads to many of those having a lean seizure - if the operator uses a tach to "tune" it. They lean it out to get to the max rpm spec because the throttle is not fully open.

1/4" Gates fuel line fixed the problem. I ran it for all of 2 minutes but something isn't happy with the saw... not the impressive 288 everyone talks about. I'll pull a vac test and go from there.

Thanks for the tip on just building it up a bit!
 
This leads to many of those having a lean seizure - if the operator uses a tach to "tune" it. They lean it out to get to the max rpm spec because the throttle is not fully open.

Throttle opened up but still no excitement. I checked the compression and we're around 100 psi. How it runs, I don't know but I think I'm on to a reason why it's down on power. For now it'll get set on the shelf whole until I have time to do a proper pull down and give it the going over it deserves.

While I'm in there should I get it ported or is the 288 enough animal in stock form?
 
Throttle opened up but still no excitement. I checked the compression and we're around 100 psi. How it runs, I don't know but I think I'm on to a reason why it's down on power. For now it'll get set on the shelf whole until I have time to do a proper pull down and give it the going over it deserves.

While I'm in there should I get it ported or is the 288 enough animal in stock form?

A healthy 288XP is a SERIOUS saw stock.
 
I've resisted porting mine for that reason. Blows 160 and is MMed. It's a monster.
 
Well when I get a chance to get it up on the bench, I'll pull it down and pop a piston and rings in it for good measure as well as all new rubber bits. For now, it's on the shelf in once piece as it's harder to loose the little bits that way. Hope to get to it in a month or two...just too many projects in front right now.

Thanks for the tips and as I get into the refurb, I'll get pics and post them up.
 
I took my 288xp lite down for a rebuild, cold right after I put it together it blew 160psi no run time. As soon as I find my vacuum leak problem now i'll get a few tanks on it and get another reading. The little time I had it running I was shocked at how it reacted, totally brutal. :rock:
 
I took my 288xp lite down for a rebuild, cold right after I put it together it blew 160psi no run time. As soon as I find my vacuum leak problem now i'll get a few tanks on it and get another reading. The little time I had it running I was shocked at how it reacted, totally brutal. :rock:

That's what I was hoping for... just too many projects on the bench right now to start another. I'm anxious but learning too many box-o-saws fills up a small shop in short order.
 
i may be wrong but it looks to me your 288 has one of those el cheapo chinese cylinders. i've never seen an original 288 top end with the decomp valve on that side of the cylinder but i have seen the chinese cylinders like that. could be wrong though. if i were you i'd go on the hunt to find an original cylinder for the rebuild if it is in fact chinese.
 
i may be wrong but it looks to me your 288 has one of those el cheapo chinese cylinders. i've never seen an original 288 top end with the decomp valve on that side of the cylinder but i have seen the chinese cylinders like that. could be wrong though. if i were you i'd go on the hunt to find an original cylinder for the rebuild if it is in fact chinese.

I believe all the 288XP Lites had the decomp valve. Later 'non-Lite' 288XP's did as well. In the IPL, you can see the decomp valve (and the boss on the cylinder where the valve goes) as well as a decomp blockoff plug for the cylinder and a plastic plug to cover the hole in the top cover when the decomp blockoff plug is used.
 
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That de-comp is correct for that was as far as position goes. My original valve is light blue though. Would need to see more of the cylinder to say for sure, but at a glance it looks original.
 
I believe all the 288XP Lites had the decomp valve. Later 'non-Lite' 288XP's did as well. In the IPL, you can see the decomp valve (and the boss on the cylinder where the valve goes) as well as a decomp blockoff plug for the cylinder and a plastic plug to cover the hole in the top cover when the decomp blockoff plug is used.

I wish my 288xp had a decomp. Thing is a brute to pull. Sounds great though once running.
Bob
 
That de-comp is correct for that was as far as position goes. My original valve is light blue though. Would need to see more of the cylinder to say for sure, but at a glance it looks original.

That style is what I have seen on 570/575's.

I believe all the 288XP Lites had the decomp valve. Later 'non-Lite' 288XP's did as well. In the IPL, you can see the decomp valve (and the boss on the cylinder where the valve goes) as well as a decomp blockoff plug for the cylinder and a plastic plug to cover the hole in the top cover when the decomp blockoff plug is used.

Yes, early 288's did not have a decomp.

I wish my 288xp had a decomp. Thing is a brute to pull. Sounds great though once running.
Bob

Yes, I had an early 288 with the base gasket deleted and it was a finger breaker unless you pulled it just past TDC and then pulled it like you hated it.
 
Looking at the saw I believe it is an original cylinder, just a bunch of hours. I'm hoping I can get by with just an new meteor piston kit and a carb rebuild.

For those that have been through them, should I go ahead and do bearings too while I'm this far into it? Are they normally hard on crank bearings? I know I should but to avoid splitting the case would be nice.
 
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