3 saws only the plastic one works

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Cerd

ArboristSite Lurker
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I have 3 saws:

Olympik 945, which would be my favorite if it ran, but I have a LOT of trouble getting it to work right. After putzing with it in my spare time over 2 years, I finally got it to stay idling nicely. I still haven't gotten the top end tweaked yet, but it was sitting for a month or so now, and I can't get the thing started again for the life of me.

An older Remington top handle that I picked up for $10. It is more front heavy than I wanted though. It runs well, but there must be a big crack in the tank because it was quickly draining out when I filled it last night. It has a 16 inch bar on it and I was wondering if a 12 inch bar would help with the balance.

The last one, a Homelite PS33 still took an hour to get it started for the first time this year, but it is my only reliable saw right now. I get a lot of guff from my brother who only uses Stihl and Husky, but those are above my pay grade. It is a little underpowered, but I was able to drop a 12 inch tree last night without much trouble.


Are these saws worth repairing if I am fighting them so much or do I need to buck up and start saving for a better saw?

I think the Oly just needs a tune, but its always been a PITA to get it started after sitting a few weeks, so I am unsure.
I can fix the Remington with some fuel line and maybe some epoxy, but is it any good?
Until I get a better saw, I am keeping the Homelite since its the only one that works all year after the first start.
 
If a saw sits for a month, try this: a tsp of fuel mix in the plug hole or down carb throat and pull trigger.
If the Remington is a Mighty Mite saw - I don't think much of them. They should take an A318 bar.
I've had a couple of "strong" plastic Homeys - like PS33 (not the newer cheap, thin plastic saws - they are a POS). They aren't bad little saws. Keep it running.
In the long run, do get a better saw - look for good used on here, CL, FB.
 
If a saw sits for a month, try this: a tsp of fuel mix in the plug hole or down carb throat and pull trigger.
.

That's what I was doing, but it gets old having to do it almost every time with all of the stuff in the way. I'm under the impression that the shroud has to be on to run properly due to air flow, plus removing the plug, etc gets old. There is a screen in front of the carb as well, so that isn't quite an option either.

The Remington is a Yard Master.
 

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