32" MS250??

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Wonder how big a bar my MMMS660 would pull with that PS chain? ;)

Based on his cc to bar length calculations for the MS250 i say a 660 should have a 6 footer at a minimum. :laugh: Just make sure you look elsewhere and don't ask me if you need a hand to lift the darn thing onto a log to cut. ;)
 
Saw does not have a high output oiler. He recommends putting one on due to the bar size and he provides a link to the part.

He fails to mention that the 1123 series pumps are tricky to install without the (expensive) factory tool. The higher flow pumps are nothing to write home about either, though they will oil an 18" .325 bar acceptably well.
 
Who makes that bar? The MS250 runs that split tail small pattern bar.
 
Almost disposable could mean you get several cuts before it goes tits-up.... maybe one or two big logs... then dispose of the $500 saw. He's having them make a Picco Cannon bar in longer length... maybe we could get him to make a 24" bar for the 200T... so you can reach further?

Maybe he's bought stock in Stihl and figures the extra sales will bring the market up cuz he ain't making it from Cannon. $350 for the saw, $120 for the bar, $15 for the chain...$485 and a profit of $65 give or take... lot of effort for $65, but he has cornered the market.. only guy selling these.. people will buy a bag of dog doo-doo if it's marketed right, living proof right here!
 
I'm really curious about the narrow kerf bars. There are some merits to a longer guide bar, especially limbing like the seller says. If I didn't already have 3 .325 bar/chain combos for my 2252 I would definitely consider at least a 20" narrow kerf bar.. You get a longer reach and there is an occasional tree around here that an 18" won't cut in one swipe.. A 20" will cover just about everything.

Only real lumberjacks take photos barefoot, right?
 
Anyway you slice it, it's still going to generate a LOT more heat at the clutch.
Actually, if the clutch is not slipping it does not generate any heat. Of course with the longer bar it has a much greater potential to slip, wherein one can discover just how much heat a several hp engine can generate, and how smart it is to have that clutch snuggled up next to a plastic case....

I look at the thing a little differently since I mostly use small saws with narrow kerf chain, including several 40cc saws that pull 18" bars no problem. So a 24" is 6" longer, and on a 45cc saw with quad ports. Put a sharp narrow kerf chain on it (lo pro or 0.325NK) and I have no problem believing it will pull through softwood just fine. Oiling may be another issue but you won't be able to tell that in a video. Heck, my 46cc Poulan pulls a 20" bar with Oregon 20BPX very well, and that's not narrow kerf and it has pretty tall cutters.

I often wonder why people put such tiny bars on larger cc saws, but I think it is the difference between being used to full kerf chains vs. narrow kerf.
 
As an example, in this old thread of mine there is some data on kerf widths from Franny K ( http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/kerf-width-0-325-nk-vs-3-8-lo-pro.250846/#post-4662295 ). Stihl 63PMC is shown as 0.203" kerf, and 0.325" chisel is shown as 0.274" wide, which is an increase of 35%.

If you start with a 45cc engine and add 35% you end up at 60cc - most could imagine a 60cc saw pulling a 24" bar if needed, especially in softwood.

EDIT: Actually, I calculated that wrong. If you start off with a 70cc saw and reduce that by 35%, you end up a 45cc. Reducing kerf is a big benefit.
 
I would not be surprised to find out this weirdo is missing a few toes after seeing how he started the saw .
I must be retarded but I'm about to go bolt a 32 inch bar on my 261 and see how unbalanced it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bare feet and full chisel chain on a 32" bar. Doesn't really go together does it? :dizzy: Yes it might destroy the MS250's handling and be a tiny bit nose heavy with the 32". :rolleyes: Much the same way a 20" 3/8" bar ruins my 346XP! ;)

upload_2014-11-5_12-48-10.jpeg
 
Bare feet and full chisel chain on a 32" bar. Doesn't really go together does it? :dizzy: Yes it might destroy the MS250's handling and be a tiny bit nose heavy with the 32". :rolleyes: Much the same way a 20" 3/8" bar ruins my 346XP! ;)

View attachment 377626
Oh look !!!! He has all his toes in that picture !!![emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
***

It did get me thinking, though, about the feasibility of using a longer bar on smaller saws. And, I can see how it would take some stress off your back. Anyone have any success running this type of setup?

Back in the late 70s, by father with similar intent parked his bow saw and outfitted a MAC 1010 (54cc) with a 28" bar. Didn't use it long before he parked the 28" bar. IMO, if you are worried about bending over too much, a little extra weight (bigger powerhead) for more length may be a good tradeoff; poor performance is typically a poor tradeoff.

Ron
 

Latest posts

Back
Top