.325 narrow kerf on 50cc saw

[husq2100]

Dolmar Dealer Yes I am, BUT being that I also am a REDMAX Dealer that makes me sort of a Husky Dealer with the husky built G5300 and GZ7000???? And you mentioned Solo Hmmmmmm I am technically a Solo dealer as well But the distribution is really failing to support their product!!


Scott

Whats your point scott? you sell more than one brand so that makes you the end in judgement? and a husky dealer buy 6 degrees of seperation haha thats funny.

My point was that you dont just state your opinion, you bash it onto everyone. Plus it seems quite narrow minded to praise the 7900 and slander the 681 when they are so close in performance and they share many parts its not funny.....

yes you know alot of stuff, yes you can be helpful to those that follow your lead. But it gets pretty timersome seeing they same crap over and over being sold as fact

cheers,
Serg

 

[Philbert]

Anybody running this setup? . . . Saw is rated @ 3.2 hp, same as Husqvarna 55.

This is the setup that came standard with my Husqvarna 353 (51.7 ci, 3.3 HP). I have it with a 16 and 20 inch bar.

Note that you need to run a narrow kerf bar with narrow kerf chain, so if you are changing over, make sure that you get the right bar. Otherwise, you can run 'standard' .325 chain and bar if you want the closer tooth spacing but don't want the narrow kerf.

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf

As for it being a 'marketing ploy' I disagree. Narrow kerf chains, like narrow kerf circular saw blades, and narrow kerf handsaws (think Japanese) are more efficient as they remove less wood in the cut. Remember that the goal is to make one piece of wood into two, not to make the biggest pile of sawdust/chips.

So I don't need as powerful/heavy/expensive of a saw to do work like the OP mentioned. The downside is that narrow kerf chain is not as 'beefy' as standard chain and does not hold up as well for long bars and high horsepower, but those saws are optimized for different tasks.

Philbert

 

[blsnelling]

The only "problem" is that the NK only comes in semi-chisel, no chisel option....:censored:

+1. 3/8 Picco is faster on the Dolmar 420. I have no use for .325 NK. It may have its purposes, but it's not cutting firewood.

 

[cjrenegade82]

I have ran the 325 NK chain for a little while now with no problems and small but still improvements in cutting speed and smoothness from regular 325

You should see a big differance in smoothness from 3/8. Chain speed also should be faster but maybe not cut times.

Nk is also harder to find with less bar and chain options so unless you have a go to shop that you know will have it or order online that could be a concern.

You may want to try just keeping your rakers a little high or trying a safety chain to help smooth it out.

 

[Philbert]

Nk is also harder to find with less bar and chain options so unless you have a go to shop that you know will have it or order online that could be a concern.

It may be harder to find in some areas, but is readily available from vendors such as Bailey's.

Because it is used on consumer saws, the low kickback version of narrow kerf can also be found in pre-made loops at stores like Lowe's that sell Husqvarna chain. Also at hardware stores and home centers that sell Oregon branded chain if you use the 'G' code (e.g. a loop of 95VP with 66 drive links is packaged and sold as 'G66').

Philbert

 

[2000ssm6]

I don't see a need for .325. All my 026s run 16" 3/8 and love it. I can't think of a current pro 50cc saw that can't run 3/8 chain.

 

[2000ssm6]

.325 has been used in speed events here in 12inch REAL hardwood, borecutting and up/down cookie cutting and this on saws upto 75cc, with good results.
cheers, Serg

Yikes!

 

[SawTroll]

Glad I resisted the temptation to try a NK setup on my 026. I'll stick to good 'ol Rapid Super in .325

You probably would have been better off with the NK set-up, but that option is N/A by now, thanks to ignorance! :greenchainsaw:

 

[2000ssm6]

You probably would have been better off with the NK set-up, but that option is N/A by now, thanks to ignorance! :greenchainsaw:

Naw, the .325 RS is better than NK and 3/8 would be the best IMO. We are not talking about 30cc saws.

 

[Justsaws]

Anybody running this setup?
I am constantly having to deal with dropped limbs and trees
on my small farm. Standard 3/8" is too bouncy for smaller limbs.
I put a 8 tooth .325 rim sprocket & 18" NK bar & chain on Makita DCS 520.
I like the chain speed, just wondering if it would hold up.
Saw is rated @ 3.2 hp, same as Husqvarna 55.

No need for the narrow kerf on the 520, even on the 20" bar. The saw is no speed demon but pulls the .325 x 8 just fine that is my current setup on the 520/540s. It is a smoother ride and for me at least was very noticeable when switching from 3/8 for bumping limbs. Narrow kerf will be smoother still and as long as it is kept sharp and the bar and rim are in good shape it will hold up fine.

As for every one else,:bang:.

 

[SawTroll]

Niko THAT saw came factory with either 3/8"-7 or .325"-8 going backwards to a .325"-7 is not needed or recommended this saw is not a low torque husky....

Also stay away from that NK crap unless you feel the need to repair broken chains often..

Scott

It still is a low-powered saw for 50cc (or maybe medium) - but the Dolmar hype seem to have no limits - sure it will be better off with .325x7, regardless what DolmarUSA say - they are just full of hype (and some obvious lies as well - do the maths on 3.8kW vs. 3.9bhp, and 2.0kw vs.2.9bhp - it just doesn't add up)!

Some years ago they just put a "b" in front of the hp numbers, without redoing the maths ( no, I haven't forgot that) - in Europe there has been no such issues, the weight specs often are off, but that is common for all brands....

Another thing, who cares about Dolmar anyway - do they have a full percent of the market???????

 

[Jonny Quest]

I use a .325 narrow kerf set-up on my modded Husqvarna 353. No complaints. I thought about swapping out so that everything runs .375 (3/8") but the saw performs so well with the .325 that I'm hesitant to mess with success.

JQ

 

[2000ssm6]

I thought about swapping out so that everything runs .375 (3/8")
JQ

One of my reasons for not using .325 right there.

 

[SawTroll]

Naw, the .325 RS is better than NK and 3/8 would be the best IMO. We are not talking about 30cc saws.

Probably on a modded one, but not on a stock one!

 

[SawTroll]

I use a .325 narrow kerf set-up on my modded Husqvarna 353. No complaints. I thought about swapping out so that everything runs .375 (3/8") but the saw performs so well with the .325 that I'm hesitant to mess with success.

JQ

I suggest that you forget 3/8" - but try an Oregon 20LP on that NK bar, and if it performs well (I guess it will), get a dedicated set-up.

 

[2000ssm6]

Probably on a modded one, but not on a stock one!

Uh, yeah, I got a stock one running 3/8.

 

[SawTroll]

Uh, yeah, I got a stock one running 3/8.

The "3.3hp" Husky 353 outcuts the "3.5hp" 260 that we still get here with the standard bar and chain - guess the reason for that.......

The 353 comes with a H30/95VP, and the 260 with a 25RMC, that isn't narrow kerf!

The NE346xp is in a totally different class, so I leave it out of that discussion!

 

[husq2100]

It still is a low-powered saw for 50cc (or maybe medium) - but the Dolmar hype seem to have no limits - sure it will be better off with .325x7, regardless what DolmarUSA say - they are just full of hype (and some obvious lies as well - do the maths on 3.8kW vs. 3.9bhp, and 2.0kw vs.2.9bhp - it just doesn't add up)!

Some years ago they just put a "b" in front of the hp numbers, without redoing the maths ( no, I haven't forgot that) - in Europe there has been no such issues, the weight specs often are off, but that is common for all brands....

Another thing, who cares about Dolmar anyway - do they have a full percent of the market???????

Niko, i wonder if DolmarUSA decided that the best compromise was to run 3/8th on these saws, due to the most common timbers cut in the US and also what will be commonly available plus the fact that alot of 5100 owners will run bigger saws or already have bigger saws and want to keep 3/8th as the commonality. It might not be the optimum but it may be the best overall(if you get what i mean by BEST )

on another note regarding hp figures it has been widely regarded that USA hp figures in the auto industry, have always been a bit optimistic...

cheers, Serg

 

[CentaurG2]

Anybody running this setup?
I am constantly having to deal with dropped limbs and trees
on my small farm. Standard 3/8" is too bouncy for smaller limbs.
I put a 8 tooth .325 rim sprocket & 18" NK bar & chain on Makita DCS 520.
I like the chain speed, just wondering if it would hold up.
Saw is rated @ 3.2 hp, same as Husqvarna 55.

I run narrow kerf bars and 95vp on all of my limbing saws (OE+NE 346 and dolmar 5100). The bar and chain combo is light weight, cuts reasonably well, low kickback, easy to sharpen and stays sharp. I once hit a fender washer some kind homeowner left in an apple tree going full tilt with an oe346. It tore 4 cutters off the 95vp chain but it did not snap. I have never had one fail. It might not be for everyone (especially if you are obsessed with speed) but if you cut a lot of dry, dirty wood or slice up pallets for an OWB, it is a most excellent bar and chain combo. I hope they continue to produce it.

 

[Islander]

How about 3/8 Lo Pro?

I have a new 5100S that is setup for 3/8" from the factory...it works great, but I also notice the "bumpiness" when cutting small limbs and branches. I like the 3/8" for larger stuff, so no plans to change that.

Since I burn most of my cuttings (just burned a big pile yesterday), I tend to cut them pretty small for ease of handling (plus trigger happiness). Anything 3" or over I cut for firewood, so I'm always cutting branches flush, close to the trunk for better fit in my woodbox.

I use WoodlandPro 3/8" Lo Pro (30LP) on my 42cc saw, and it seems to work great. Smaller teeth make for less bumpy ride. Also easier to nose in there and get flush cuts.

I have a bunch of field-edge trimming coming up. Lots of small trees overhanging into our hayfield. Most are under 8" at the stump. And lots of brush and branches. Frustrating to clear out, but I just did a small section, and the results are worth the effort (probably gain full row of hay...plus all that small firewood piles up)

I'm thinking of trying Oregon 91VXL, a 3/8" Lo Pro, with supposedly longer cutter length.

I also have a loop of 72LPX which I haven't tried yet. I wonder if the bumper drive link might help with this smaller stuff...

Since most of it is small, power/speed isn't a factor...ease of de-branching is key...