325 vs 3/8

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Brian Beams

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Ok, so I made the mistake of buying the wrong saw. Should've spent the extra hundred bucks for a pro model Husky instead of the rancher 455. Just doesn't have the horsepower it should, and I know exactly why. It bogs down waaayy too easily. So, Ive been considering dropping down to a 325 bar/chain/sprocket combo. I can do this for about 80$. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Im thinking the smaller, narrower chain should (in theory) cut as fast with less bogging of the engine.
 
How new is the saw? It can take 5+ tanks of gas to break in, and the difference will be noticeable. Also, what is the main use of the saw.... Firewood as a primary heat source, or just yard work/odd jobs?
I switched my MS260 from .325 to 3/8 and didn't notice much difference. Bar size would be my best recommendation after the obligatory Muffler Mod and quick retuning. While a bit heavy, and slow, the 455 is a good firewood saw. You should get plenty of years out of it while you save for a bigger Pro saw.
 
As said the 455 isn't horrible. It will turn trees into rounds of firewood pretty easily.

Is it running a 20" 3/8? If so step it down to a 16". Let it break in and it will be a whole new saw. 20" is a little too much for a 50cc class saw. 3/8 has a longer tooth for more life and will almost always cut faster, so stick with it.
 
Ok. I've been running saws for nearly 30 yrs now and Im used to my old poulan 306's which would hog thru the biggest oak and maple with no probs. The 455 is 8 yrs old or so, and well broke in. Ive tuned it all I can without pulling the jug. Saw's just not worth that, and one day I'll sell enough wood to buy a real saw again. I don't run my ol saws much anymore for several reasons. Otherwise, I'd just sell the husq. I was just curious if anyone had tried the switch to the narrow kerf 325, and if it made a diff 4 them.. Most of the arborists saws coming into my shop run 325 chains. Yes, I know they rev a lot higher as well. I wasn't looking for more cutting speed, just thought it might bog the motor less than the bigger 3/8 chisel I'm running now. I don't want to shorten the bar. I like my 20's.
 
Muffler mod it, richen it up, run what ya got. Cost zero to do that.

Also, run sharper chains if possible.

Save your loot, sock it away, when you see a deal on the tradin post here for a decent large pro saw, jump on it.
 
Yup, done it. muffler, carb, all I can do without pulling the jug. My question wasn't about the saw itself, I know what it is and isn't. I was wondering if anyone tried this on any given saw, and if so, did you notice any difference " in the real world" ? Makes sense, on paper at least, that it could. Any one I asked around here says Unnhh, I dunno, I juz run wut it came wid..
 
Most manufacturers have extensive R&D staffs and budgets, if .325 was the optimal chain it would probably come that way. I suspect proper sharpening technique will make far more difference that chain size.
 
Yup, done it. muffler, carb, all I can do without pulling the jug. My question wasn't about the saw itself, I know what it is and isn't. I was wondering if anyone tried this on any given saw, and if so, did you notice any difference " in the real world" ? Makes sense, on paper at least, that it could. Any one I asked around here says Unnhh, I dunno, I juz run wut it came wid..
The .325 narrow kerf would make a slight difference but 80 dollars worth no. Keep a super chain on it and keep on sawing. Save your money and purchase a good used 70cc (044, 372xp, 2171) you will not be disappointed. :rock:
 
I run .325 narrow kerf on my 353. That's what it came with, and I like it. Cuts better when it is sharp.

I think that it would probably make a difference on your saw, but not the kind of difference you are looking for.

Keep the 455 and start looking for a 60 to 70 cc saw. Consider used saws, Dolmars, and Echos if you don't want to pay STIHL or Husky IEM prices.

Philbert
 
Or for $80.00 you could just buy a 74 cc Poulan 245...
I have several old saws, including two poulan 306's, As I said earlier, I just don't want to run them too much anymore. Don't wanna kill em, too hard to rebuild nowadays. Parts are getting harder to come by. If it were up to me, I'd park em on the coffee table...

I run .325 narrow kerf on my 353. That's what it came with, and I like it. Cuts better when it is sharp.

I think that it would probably make a difference on your saw, but not the kind of difference you are looking for.

Keep the 455 and start looking for a 60 to 70 cc saw. Consider used saws, Dolmars, and Echos if you don't want to pay STIHL or Husky IEM prices.

Philbert
Thanks, these are the kinds of answers I was lookin for. 80$ was a rough guess. for a bar,2 chains and a drive rim/sprocket. could prob get those for much less from my distributers, maybe as a pkg deal. but I thought the debate would be interesting
 
As far as the chains I run now, all my bigger saws run 3/8 Oregon"72's", full comp chisels. My small saws run mini "lo pro" 3/8 "91" chisel, or semi-chisel, All kept impeccably sharp with a silvey grinder.
 
Sounds like you have made the tweaks that you can. There comes a time when you just need a bigger hammer. 'No replacement for displacement'.

Thanks, these are the kinds of answers I was lookin for. . . . I thought the debate would be interesting

There have been many threads comparing full size 3/8 pitch chain, versus .325 pitch on saws like the STIHL MS260 (50cc). Some of this comes down to preference and the type of cutting you do. The larger, 3/8 cutters take fewer, but larger bites. The smaller, .325 cutters take smaller bites, but more of them. Cutting speed may be similar in some types and sizes of wood. The .325 will be smoother on smaller limbs, due to the closer spacing of the teeth. The 3/8 may shine in other situations.

Philbert
 
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