359: fix or get a Stihl?

[Ryan W]

Hey guys, long time lurker / first time poster here. Thanks for all the valuable info on this site!

My Husqvarna 359 (2005 etech) is giving me troubles. It fires right up, runs strong for a bit, dies because it won't idle, then won't start until it cools back down. It has very low hours on it and ran great until a year or so ago.

Does that sound like the Walbro 199 issue? The "good" local shop did a basic carb kit & tuneup and doesn't know what else to do.

I'm very frustrated with it and need a saw that runs reliably. Should I get it fixed or look for another saw?

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Get it rebuilt by means of a port job. It'll be like having a new saw for less than half the price.

 

[cuinrearview]

If you want to try a known good carb respond to the private message I just sent you. I love me a 359!

 

[ericm979]

Does it stay running if you pull the trigger slightly? Then it just needs to have the carb tuned properly. If not replace the fuel filter. If it's still not running better then you need to check the impulse line and the carb's pump diaphram and valves.

 

[Ryan W]

First it would bog down and couldn't get up to full rpm (or even half). After the compression test / carb kit / spark plug / etc. it starts, idles, and runs great for a couple minutes, then quits when it gets hot. The shop said it might be the coils?

I don't know much about these ... if you guys can help me be confident in a fix, I'd love to send it to a guru to have it fixed and ported at the same time.

 

[cuinrearview]

If it has good compression it's either not getting the right amount of fuel or the enough spark at the right time.

 

[Ryan W]

What would make it do this only when it's hot? It starts & runs great for the first few minutes.

 

[cuinrearview]

A tank vent, coil, or carb.

 

[Ryan W]

If I can't find someone in SLC, who's the guy to send the saw to and how much should I expect to pay? Most 359 threads I've seen mention Tree Monkey but I don't see anything from him here lately.

 

[Marley5]

Sounds as simple as a vent tube and/or a proper tune given the low hours.
As mentioned above, just loosen the gas cap a little and see if that'll make it run.

 

[Ryan W]

Thanks for the suggestion @Marley5, I'll give that a shot

 

[cgraham1]

If I can't find someone in SLC, who's the guy to send the saw to and how much should I expect to pay? Most 359 threads I've seen mention Tree Monkey but I don't see anything from him here lately.

@crabby cooter might be able to help...

 

[Marshy]

Check you impulse line and gas line. The two come together and are held in place with a clip. The two lines rub against eachother and eventually get thin and will collapse or pull air into the crank case.

 

[ThackMan]

I say fix or get a 550xp


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[Huskitoter]

Check for spark at the plug when it quits if cracking the fuel cap doesn't work.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I rebuilt a Husky 51 last month. It runs right with with my Husky 257. Would I trade either one for a Stihl? No entire way. Are you kidding me?

 

[Huskitoter]

Nobody has mentioned the plastic intake boot clamp. Replace the plastic clamp with a metal one if it hasn't been updated to prevent (or stop) an air leak.

 

[cuinrearview]

I rebuilt a Husky 51 last month. It runs right with with my Husky 257. Would I trade either one for a Stihl? No entire way. Are you kidding me?

The random card nicely played here sir. If you like those two, you should definitely try a 359 or 2159.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Nobody has mentioned the plastic intake boot clamp. Replace the plastic clamp with a metal one if it hasn't been updated to prevent (or stop) an air leak.

Agreed. Those plastic intake manifold boot clamps are notorius for failing during any attempt to rebuild the top end. These were an engineering disaster designed to either make dealers rich or fill up landfills.

 

[Wood Doctor]

The random card nicely played here sir. If you like those two, you should definitely try a 359 or 2159.

That's next on the agenda and thanks for reminding me. Two thumbs up!