359 port timing numbers

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jonsered 535

jonsered 535

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 17, 2009
Messages
148
Location
Newfoundland
I have the muffler and heat shield and gasket opened up to the port opening.
What should |I do with the muffler just drill a couple of 1/2'' holes inside on the plate in there.
It doesn't have a catalytic converter as such like my dolmar 5105 did before I replaced it.
 
David Young

David Young

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Nov 27, 2014
Messages
680
that plate is the cat.
the more of it you get rid of the better.
punch holes in it, you want to create a larger volume. also if you cut the tube off to the outlet it will help.

do a search on muffler mods for those saws, lots of info.
you can also buy an empty aftermarket one for cheap maybe 15 bucks.

some people like adding a deflector and hole on one side. I normally put a couple of 1/2" holes in the mounting bracket on the front and put some screen in there.

a muffler mod alone on those saws is an impressive power increase.
 
drf255

drf255

BAD CAD
Joined
Nov 3, 2014
Messages
4,114
Location
Socialists Republic of New York
Your ports look good, even the exhaust IMHO.

I wouldn't of touched the intake. Did you raise the transfers, if so how?

I don't think that the intake/piston bevel will create much of an issue. Remember, there's a lot of fluid dynamics happening here. There's charge inertia filling the case and the major percentage of the port is closed at that point.

I woulda prolly sanded the base first to lower the jug slightly. I wouldn't have touched the exhaust port at all except for widening. The factory give the roof a perfect shape and it wouldn't be worth it. Plus, 105 woulda given you better compression and more torque.
 
David Young

David Young

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Nov 27, 2014
Messages
680
Lol tuna and cheese
I'll leave the stock one for now and try it.
Do you think i should put her together or wait till I get some liquid steel for the intake

mmmm tuna melts with tomato soup.

I also like tuna with shredded extra sharp cheddar with diced gherkins on a wrap

I would not run it like that from my experience. I would cut a half moon shape in the bottom of the piston in the very center. Like what they do on the stihl ms 250 piston.

The lower intake side of the piston takes the most side load of anywhere on the piston. basically what we have done is like making the port too flat. so by putting a small crescent in the piston you would ease the piston back in line and maybe curb some of the wear.

you will likely have a long intake duration by the time you are done. you will be able to see what that runs like then put in the epoxy and bring the intake to a short duration like 142-144 and see how you like it.

have fun with it.

David
 
sunfish

sunfish

Fish Head
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
14,305
Location
Success Missouri
I woulda prolly sanded the base first to lower the jug slightly. I wouldn't have touched the exhaust port at all except for widening. The factory give the roof a perfect shape and it wouldn't be worth it. Plus, 105 woulda given you better compression and more torque.
It's difficult to sand the bottom of the jug with the protruding parts that go down into the case. It's not flat like some other saws.

I agree on the exhaust port.
 

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