361 bar length
- Thread starter 361kid
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This topic is one of the more popular ones. It has been covered before, many times. Come on, already, search!
(Yes, but it is not an ideal combination - kinda like running a 20" on a 260. It is particularly bad in hardwoods, but arguably less bad in softwoods. It all depends on what you consider to be fast enough. Regardless, a muffler mod helps.)
(Yes, but it is not an ideal combination - kinda like running a 20" on a 260. It is particularly bad in hardwoods, but arguably less bad in softwoods. It all depends on what you consider to be fast enough. Regardless, a muffler mod helps.)
I'd love to use the search function...only sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't
I just ordered a load of logs that are 24in or bigger. Now, I'm no expert at judging the diameter of a log but, will the 20in be able to handle some of the larger stuff? I've seen the truckloads and some of the logs are 3-5ft in diameter!!! (For me that's big) So should I get the 24 or just stick to the 20?
I just ordered a load of logs that are 24in or bigger. Now, I'm no expert at judging the diameter of a log but, will the 20in be able to handle some of the larger stuff? I've seen the truckloads and some of the logs are 3-5ft in diameter!!! (For me that's big) So should I get the 24 or just stick to the 20?
fishhuntcutwood
Full wraps and long bars!!!!!!!!!
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In hardwood, eh, it'd be pushing it. But for bucking firewood, you've got the luxery of time and the ability to cut slowly. I use a 24" on my 361 all the time, but that's softwood. I'd wait and see how large the logs truely are. No sense in buying a 24" set up, only to find you've got logs 50" and it's still too small. If they're that big, you'd be able to block them with your 20" bar anyway.
Jeff
Jeff
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
It will easily run a 24 inch bar... Try full skip if it bogs in hardwood, but out here, no problems with 28 either..
361kid said:I'd love to use the search function...only sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't
I can believe that. Technology does have a way of misbehaving...
361kid said:
Without knowing the specifics of what you're cutting your logs into and how fast you need them cut up, it is hard to say. To run a bar 24" or bigger on a consistent basis where the full length of the bar is going to be used, I would frankly want more power than a 361 can manage - 460/372-385/7900-class powerheads are probably better suited to that sort of use. If you stick with the 361, I would suggest that you could make better time cutting from both sides with a shorter bar than making one pass with an oversized bar...years of being limited to an MS290 even in bigger wood proved this point for me...but it also proved the benefit of having a bigger saw, too.
In any case, Jeff is right - wait to see what sort of wood shows up.
Kid...Look at it this way...If you do get logs in that your 361 won't handle it'll be a perfect excuse to buy a bigger saw.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
361kid said:Damn good point Bob, that 660 is sounding better and better
Yep, jump right over that 460 and get the 660... I did...
Diesel JD
ArboristSite Guru
The other possibility is using plunge cuts. I have routinely cut up big stuff up to 36" and a bit more with my 025 and 18" bar. My MS390 pushes a 25" bar just fine with full comp chain and most here will say the 361 is more saw than the 390, it has more torque adn teh 361 has more HP by a bit...it's probablya wash. With full skip you'll definitely have no issues. The biggest worry is cost. If you buya Stihl ES 25" it'll cost you, you can get cheaper but lower quality bars, I might recommend this, especially for occaisonal use!
J.D.
J.D.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Perfect!boboak said:Kid...Look at it this way...If you do get logs in that your 361 won't handle it'll be a perfect excuse to buy a bigger saw.
:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :greenchainsaw:
I sure want a 660, but I am not able to find an excuse for it.
Seriously;
I think putting a 24" bar on the 361 is defeating the purpose of having a light and nimble saw in the first place....
fishhuntcutwood
Full wraps and long bars!!!!!!!!!
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361kid said:
The term, "block" can be used in different ways. In this case, I was talking about cutting it cross and with grain cutting it into small blocks, a little at a time. Cut down as far as your bar will take you, then come in from the end, cutting with grain cutting it into blocks as you go.
Jeff
musher
ArboristSite Operative
The terms "bucking" and "blocking" are used interchangeably when you're cutting a log into smaller chunks for firewood, etc.. The term "blocking" isn't used, though, for when you're bucking a tree into sawlog lengths.361kid said:
firedog
ArboristSite Lurker
I run a 24" on my 361 and like it real well. Cutting all softwoods though and most of it under 30". Some bigger but it handles it just fine. I have a 20" bar for it also but prefer the 24".
I forget who it was but when you first started posting on here you were warned this would happen361kid said:Damn good point Bob, that 660 is sounding better and better
Saws and all the paraphenalia that go with them are more addictive than dope...but at least you won't get arrested. Have fun...be careful.I believe it was skwerl who warned me about this, but it was bound to happen sooner or later. I picked up a 660 yesterday and the weight was not as bad as I thought it would be. It had a 20in bar on it but if I were to get one I'd probably opt for a 28. High school graduation present to myself...SWEET!!!
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
361kid said:I believe it was skwerl who warned me about this, but it was bound to happen sooner or later. I picked up a 660 yesterday and the weight was not as bad as I thought it would be. It had a 20in bar on it but if I were to get one I'd probably opt for a 28. High school graduation present to myself...SWEET!!!
Go for it... Don't look back...
p.s., they weight half as much after you buy them
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