365 Flywheel Contacting Meteor 372 Cylinder

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FarmerGrant

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So I bought this 365 SP 9 years ago and used it on my mill a bit. Saw was feeling pretty weak, so I decided to buy a 372 top end to put on it. 3 years later I'm finally installing it. I bolted the cylinder down, and tried turning over the engine to measure squish, (base gasket delete) and it'll only turn over half way either direction. The flywheel is contacting the cylinder. I'd rather not remove cylinder again. Should I just pop off the flywheel and grind clearance on the cylinder?

Am I missing something? This is my first time replacing a chainsaw top end.

Thank you

Attached are the parts I used

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You're checking squish but you don't want to remove the cylinder? I don't understand.

I've never used that combo but before doing anything I would disassemble everything again and take my time looking and make sure everything's right. Do you have a base gasket in there now? If not try putting one in. If you go through the motions and you're sure everything is right and there's still interference, then removing some material from the transfer tunnel may be the only option. Can you compare the old and new cylinders side by side?

You may not find anything going over your work, but you will get some practice and experience.
 
Now that I've finished my coffee I wouldn't grind anything without thinking harder. The flywheel crank and crankcase are the same between the models so that jug dogs go on fine. Something else is wrong
 
Well, I popped the flywheel off and ground away the trouble spot. I ended up grinding away quite a bit more than the photo shows.

I had already sealed the cylinder, that's why I didn't want to pull it. I know I shouldn't have done things in that order.

Squish measured .031". Compression is 130 psi, up from 100 with the old piston and cylinder. Will the compression increase after the rings seat? I was expecting higher compression. Compression relief valve tested good. Case passed the pressure test. I used Permatex 51813 in place of base gasket since I had it on hand.

Saw fired up and runs well. Now I get to play with tuning, something else I've never done. I should probably dump out the 3 year old gas too, lol.

I wish I hadn't bought these parts 3 years ago. Now oem parts are almost the same price. I was just eyeballing a 52mm kit that claimed to be oem.

Thank you for the input!

d5578159aa07a14e10d6215808ad689c.png
 
Is 51813 fuel resistant? If not you better redo it with a fuel resistant sealant.

I read posts where multiple other people have used it in the same application with no issues.

This is from the manufacturer:

Automobile
Suggested Applications: For use on machined aluminum metal components; transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, transfer cases, split crankcases, pumps, and housings.

Motorcycle
Suggested Applications: Suggested For use on machined aluminum metal components; transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, axle covers, gear cases, split crankcases, pumps, housings, and with oring replacement.

Heavy Duty
Suggested Applications: Case covers, power divider shaft housings, input/output power shafts, PTO covers to housing, cover housing gasket, differential, assembly to rear axle housing, power dividers, axle shaft flanges

Marine
Suggested Applications: Crank case flanges drive unit joints, and with o-ring replacement

https://441py33rout1ptjxn2lupv31-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/51813.pdf
 
Hmmmm.... Not a lot of pressure in those applications. Hope it works out for you. Just keep an ear to the tune of the saw and you'll be fine if trouble arises.
 
I want to try that loctite product next after my tube of YB4 is empty.
Ive only really been playin with saws a lot for about 4 years and ive been using the same tube the whole time. Its spent winters below freezing for the most part, doesnt freeze and is still usable at low temps. Also, theres no timetable to get it assembled. It WILL NOT cure until its assembled, and ive fired saws up as soon as i finished assembling with no issues.
 
Ive only really been playin with saws a lot for about 4 years and ive been using the same tube the whole time. Its spent winters below freezing for the most part, doesnt freeze and is still usable at low temps. Also, theres no timetable to get it assembled. It WILL NOT cure until its assembled, and ive fired saws up as soon as i finished assembling with no issues.
Better question,and you may now is, have you run the saws enough to see if a leak occurs? I’m hoping not.
 
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