372 XP gets a Wide Discharge Clutch Cover

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dave k

dave k

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Thanks to MDAVLEE for giving me the part # for this wide cover as I was having problems with the standard cover blocking up when removing large side limbs which tend to produce as you guys say " noodles " ! I prepare a lot of timber for milling so am flush cutting to the stem.
Chris F how are you finding the one on your 2171 ?
 
mdavlee

mdavlee

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You're welcome dave. They are quite a bit wider at the bottom of the cover than stock. I measured them but don't remember what it was. :msp_unsure: It should work well for you.
 
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Ah yeah. Yer an honorary PNW member now. When we gonna gtg and do another video? I still have the adapter and a short barelled scrench to swap out with ya.

large.jpg
 
dave k

dave k

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MDAVLEE the gift that just keeps giving !! I should have foreseen the wanting the part # !! If I get a chance I'll measure up tomorrow but after a quick run it works very well. The full wrap on the 372 really helps to block things up and if you just looked at the two covers you wouldn't see much difference but I would say that the Wide cover is about an 1" + at the back of the cover than standard.
Wes I will give you a shout tomorrow, I'm glad you survived the "Safe Pass" course !!! Europe is so much fun when it comes to getting all the bits of paper you need to go to work !!!!
 
Karl Robbers

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I like the idea of the wide discharge cover.
I know that you blokes love your full wrap handles, but everytime I see one I cannot help but think, gee, that looks awkward. It must be a real pain changing chains?
I don't think I have ever sighted one let alone seen one used in Australia.
Horses for courses I guess.
 
mdavlee

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Not really any more difficult changing chains. The 372 is the oddball with the back bar nut under the wrap. The 385/390 splits it so you can use any scrench on the bar nuts.
 
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I like the idea of the wide discharge cover.
I know that you blokes love your full wrap handles, but everytime I see one I cannot help but think, gee, that looks awkward. It must be a real pain changing chains?
I don't think I have ever sighted one let alone seen one used in Australia.
Horses for courses I guess.

It's only awkward on the 372xp. Even then, you can just use a short barrel scrench - you get them with the saw, or from Baileys, et al - they go for less than $4.

The reason for the wrap is to allow one to more easily work from the same side of the tree without having to use the pushing side of the bar or have to go to the other side. Once you get used to one, it is not only a convenience, but you become used to making your cuts that way, and you can line them up and drop a tree rather quickly. It also allows the use of that side of the saw for when you are on uneven ground or the tree is only accessible from right side. Working on the side of a mountain, in blowdowns, etc can make it difficult if you can only cut from one side of the tree. You certainly can try the push side and cut that way, but using the full wrap and the pulling side is far less work on you when it is a 3' tree and a powerful saw with a long bar, and likely safer.
 
ChrisF

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Nice new cover you got there. I recently got that one for my jred 2171 for the same reason you did, and I really, really like it. In fact, it should come on all versions of the saw as standard, since you don't really sacrifice anything to get better flow.
 
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Wes I will give you a shout tomorrow, I'm glad you survived the "Safe Pass" course !!! Europe is so much fun when it comes to getting all the bits of paper you need to go to work !!!!

I was still recuperating from a massive weekend where I somehow ended up awake at 8 in the morning on Tuesday after having been up all night. Try as I might, even with yer call that day, I couldn't get my sleep schedule back in order. So, I attended that Safe Pass course on 3 hours of sleep. It was indescribably brutal. I know I slept through at least 30 minutes of it. We had only 6 we could miss on the test, and I am fairly certain I managed to hit all of those misses. I think my response to one of the questions was "why the hell would I put a 16 year old in a trench?". Prolly missed that one. I found it humorous that the lads in the course were nearly stunned when the instructor stated we had all passed.

And now I know how often to check the scaffolding and where to put the office on a work site...
 
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Here's hotsaws (of High Rev Saw Works) showing you how to do it:

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/qyspGE-anEI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here's the tie strap method of dropping big leaning Firs:

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-Wgpn_xV0qc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

And this is why ya get the hell out of there when the tree falls:

YouTube - ‪Someone Needs A Grammar Lession!‬&rlm;
 
zogger

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first video bore cut

In the first video he finishes his face cut, then does a small borecut real close to it before his back cut and fell. What is that for? To make it fall a scosh more to the left, or what? Or just for safety with the small piece it leaves?

I have a lot to learn on big felling, Most of the big stuff I do moms nature does the felling...not all, but most.
 
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In the first video he finishes his face cut, then does a small borecut real close to it before his back cut and fell. What is that for? To make it fall a scosh more to the left, or what? Or just for safety with the small piece it leaves?

I have a lot to learn on big felling, Most of the big stuff I do moms nature does the felling...not all, but most.

He seems to be removing wood to prevent a possible dutchman since the Fir is leaning heavily to that side, and to help direct it's fall. And in my experience, it is very difficult to convey on video just how much a tree is leaning. So it likely is leaning even more than it appears, which makes both of those firs insanely dangerous. Bear in mind that some of the stuff cutters do for logging is as much for preserving the wood as it is safely dropping the tree. Even though with a dutchman from a leaner such as that it may still fall fine, it risks splintering/pulling the wood or partially barber chairing - if not fully barber chairing. Also, on some trees, and hotsaws does this often enough, a soft dutchman helps it fall where you want it, or hop from the stump further out.

The back strap method ya saw(I forget what he called it) pulls a good amount of wood out of the tree and is avoided in all circumstances aside from one such as in that video where you have a good sized Fir, which is very hard due to it's lean(which could be 100 years of leaning or more). You can not simply bore cut some of the larger trees that lean because with a hundred tons of weight such a tree will snap violently when you cut the back of it or walk the cut out the back. In those cases, some cutters will just leave a little back strap as they feel they can get away with and let it pull itself out and just write off some of the butt as a sacrifice.

Another thing I forgot to add previously is that, on larger trees, you have to work from both sides of it - you really do not have an option of cutting from only one side. In such a case a full wrap is very handy.
 
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