Take out the spark screen. Hog out underneath with dremel. Put spark screen back 
372 xpw cylinder?
- Thread starter idiotwithasaw
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idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
That is an idea. Will a carbide burr cut steel well.
Yup...perfectly
when you lean on the saw with the dog engaged with the wood, and the chain stops, is the rpm struggling? maybe the clutch isn't grabby enough? maybe all the torque is there but it isn't being transferred to the chain?
seriously, make sure the impulse line is unobstructed as well, otherwise if you don't get a good pulse the fuel will not be flowing ... no power.
seriously, make sure the impulse line is unobstructed as well, otherwise if you don't get a good pulse the fuel will not be flowing ... no power.
Here's the grinding I did on a 365...in case you guys wanted ideas
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
It was like the rpm were struggling. The clutch wasn't slipping
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
Ben, the muffler mod I did was inexpensive and very easy to do.
Get yourself an exhaust deflector and screen for a 288xp.
You can see in the pic of my mod I posted that the deflector is ahead the muffler seam and butted right up against it.My 372 muffler has no baffle or catalyst so the extra port can be mounted anywhere on the muffler and it will be effective. Some mufflers have a baffle inside (like my 357xp) right at the seam, so I went behind the seam to maximize the benefit of the extra port. Luckily the layout of that particular saw allowed for the extra deflector to be mounted behind the seam. Other saws this may not be possible, at least when using the 288 deflector as I like to do.
Mock up where you want to put the deflector (I think the location I chose is best for the 288 deflector method) and note that you will have to do a little bit of tweaking to the deflector to get it to sit flush with the muffler all the way around.
Once you get it tweaked to fit satisfactorily, hold it in place and mark where the mounting bolt holes need to be drilled with a pencil. Mark the holes as close to center as reasonably possible.
Now, use a center punch to make small indents where you made your marks for your mounting bolt holes. You don't need to hammer it hard, the muffler material is soft and will center punch quite easily. Center punching makes it much easier to get your holes drilled without the drill bit walking all over the place, particularly the top hole as you are drilling on part of the rounded corner of the muffler.
I have always found it easier to start with a very small bit, like 1/8". The smaller bit will be held in place easier by your center punch marks.
Once drilled 1/8" step up to whatever size bit you need for your mounting bolts/screws. I used self drilling 1/4" metal screws so I did not drill the hole bigger than my initial 1/8" hole. You want the threads of the screw to grip nice and tight. Too big a hole and they will pull out easily.
Using the self drilling sheet metal screws, I have successfully installed them without drilling a pilot hole. I just prefer the pilot hole.
Try and plan things out so that once you run your mounting screws in you aren't taking them back out again. These are self drilling/tapping screws and the more times in and out of a hole, the looser they can get. (Don't use any sort of power tool to run your mounting screws in. As stated the muffler material is fairly soft and a power tool is much more likely to strip out the holes when the screws bottom out. Use a nut driver or something similar, and run them in hand-snug.)
Once you have your mounting holes center punched or pilot drilled, hold your deflector in place and trace the deflector opening with a pencil. Now, using your deflector tracing as a guide for placement, drill (2) 3/8" holes right next to each other going up and down (vertically in relation to the orientation of the muffler as mounted on the saw). I spaced them about 1/4" apart. Once those are drilled, use a round file or a dremel to blend them together and make one nice oval shaped port.
Now you are ready to screw your deflector and screen to the muffler.
Sorry for the long post, and I know it probably sounds more complicated than it is..but it's really quite simple and I think you will like the end result in terms of clean/OEM type looks.
Get yourself an exhaust deflector and screen for a 288xp.
You can see in the pic of my mod I posted that the deflector is ahead the muffler seam and butted right up against it.My 372 muffler has no baffle or catalyst so the extra port can be mounted anywhere on the muffler and it will be effective. Some mufflers have a baffle inside (like my 357xp) right at the seam, so I went behind the seam to maximize the benefit of the extra port. Luckily the layout of that particular saw allowed for the extra deflector to be mounted behind the seam. Other saws this may not be possible, at least when using the 288 deflector as I like to do.
Mock up where you want to put the deflector (I think the location I chose is best for the 288 deflector method) and note that you will have to do a little bit of tweaking to the deflector to get it to sit flush with the muffler all the way around.
Once you get it tweaked to fit satisfactorily, hold it in place and mark where the mounting bolt holes need to be drilled with a pencil. Mark the holes as close to center as reasonably possible.
Now, use a center punch to make small indents where you made your marks for your mounting bolt holes. You don't need to hammer it hard, the muffler material is soft and will center punch quite easily. Center punching makes it much easier to get your holes drilled without the drill bit walking all over the place, particularly the top hole as you are drilling on part of the rounded corner of the muffler.
I have always found it easier to start with a very small bit, like 1/8". The smaller bit will be held in place easier by your center punch marks.
Once drilled 1/8" step up to whatever size bit you need for your mounting bolts/screws. I used self drilling 1/4" metal screws so I did not drill the hole bigger than my initial 1/8" hole. You want the threads of the screw to grip nice and tight. Too big a hole and they will pull out easily.
Using the self drilling sheet metal screws, I have successfully installed them without drilling a pilot hole. I just prefer the pilot hole.
Try and plan things out so that once you run your mounting screws in you aren't taking them back out again. These are self drilling/tapping screws and the more times in and out of a hole, the looser they can get. (Don't use any sort of power tool to run your mounting screws in. As stated the muffler material is fairly soft and a power tool is much more likely to strip out the holes when the screws bottom out. Use a nut driver or something similar, and run them in hand-snug.)
Once you have your mounting holes center punched or pilot drilled, hold your deflector in place and trace the deflector opening with a pencil. Now, using your deflector tracing as a guide for placement, drill (2) 3/8" holes right next to each other going up and down (vertically in relation to the orientation of the muffler as mounted on the saw). I spaced them about 1/4" apart. Once those are drilled, use a round file or a dremel to blend them together and make one nice oval shaped port.
Now you are ready to screw your deflector and screen to the muffler.
Sorry for the long post, and I know it probably sounds more complicated than it is..but it's really quite simple and I think you will like the end result in terms of clean/OEM type looks.
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
Where did you get your deflector. I attempted to make my own and while it will work will also be ugly.
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
Actually, I got my deflectors from George Kahler Sales in Rome NY (about 9 miles from my front door ). He usually has a few in stock, but they had to order a couple in for me. If I recall, it cost about $25 per muffler for the 288 deflector and screen. I could be wrong as I picked those up several months ago and my memory is a tad fuzzy.
Note: I added more information to my last post.
Also, if you need a couple more pics of my 372 muffler, feel free to ask and 'll grab a couple more.
). He usually has a few in stock, but they had to order a couple in for me. If I recall, it cost about $25 per muffler for the 288 deflector and screen. I could be wrong as I picked those up several months ago and my memory is a tad fuzzy.Note: I added more information to my last post.
Also, if you need a couple more pics of my 372 muffler, feel free to ask and 'll grab a couple more.
Josh B.
I'd rather be in the woods than on this computer
+1 for the self tapping sheet metal screws. Get stainless steel so they don't rust and errode.
This is all you really need to do right here. Take a large screwdriver or scrench and lift the deflector. That'll give you room to grind out under it. When you're done you might tap the deflector back down just a tad so that it doesn't hit the plastic. I'd stay away from adding a second deflector unless building an all out cant racer. The screws are prone to vibrating out sometimes.Take out the spark screen. Hog out underneath with dremel. Put spark screen back
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
Yeah the 288 deflector is out of my price range. I like the idea of using my existing hole. How big do I go. Just take it all out under the deflector?
Yes.
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
Ok update, Sorry no pics. I put this back on my bench, pulled the muffler and took my dremel to it. Raised the deflector, pulled the screen and cut it all out, and put the screen back in. I then went to the other end of the saw and took the filter horn out and ground out the diverter like I should have to begin with. Slapped her all back together and put her in some shag hickory, man the difference it made. I still need to fine tune it some, but now it four strokes out of the cut and gained some torque. this thing is a beast, it was fast. I need to get my unmodded 372 to compare it to.
Maybe one day I will get a video too.
Maybe one day I will get a video too.
Chainsaw Jim
CJ Saws, LLC
I'm glad you're getting it sorted out here. Did you bump the ignition timing? That can add the last bit of oomph you'll get unless you're running a blue 13,300 limit coil.
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
How is ignition timing advanced on these saws?? Offset flywheel key??
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
Stock timing. Using a coil off a 350 unlimited. How much would one want to advance it.
Chainsaw Jim
CJ Saws, LLC
Normally you'd use vise grips and a flat file with an actual key. But the key is integral to the flywheel on these. You use a small file like a fingernail file to take about .015 off. You want to hit the side that allows the flywheel to advance in the counter clockwise direction. Usually enough is filed to move the flywheel about a centimeter.
Don't try to file it all the way in one go.
Don't try to file it all the way in one go.
I do not alter the ignition timing on a 372.
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
It seems to run ok as is. As it sits right now, my biggest gains are in the carb adjustment and chain without going back in and widening the intake and exhaust.
