372xp Cuts to the right. Not the normal chain issues

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According to the box and bar they are both .050. What part on the chain measures .050? The part that rides in the bar groove? I will mic the chain to make sure that both of my new .050 chains are not wrong.

When you try to wiggle the chain from side to side in the bar, even if the chain is fairly loose, the chain should not be able to wiggle very much from side to side on the top of the bar. If there is too much of this, it will pull to one side and bind no matter what you do with the powerhead. If a condition is causing the bar to be lined up wrong you should be able to compensate by rotating the power head. The sprocket tip of the bar will be 0.063 so don't check it at the tip, but there should be very little wiggle near the powerhead on a new bar. The chain will also have markings on the teeth. An oregon chain will (i think) have a 72 stamped on the drive link indicating it is a 0.050. It would have to be a .058 bar (stamped on the bar) and a .050 chain for this to happen. might be a goose chase, however, mine behaves exactly like this when the bar gets worn.
 
Replace the sprocket. Check for backed out bolt that could have possibly dulled one side of the side cutter. It would look and feel Sharp from the top, but pull to one side in wood.
 
How about the AV springs?

Ditto - I've got a 3120 that the previous owned jury rigged a broken AV mount - his fix failed while I was bucking a big burr oak and caused issues similar to what your describing.
 
I've noticed that in the past when i would pull up on the rear handle while dogging a saw in, i sometimes had a tendency to pull the rear handle up and to the left which would cause the saw to cut to the right. I'm not saying this is your problem but its something to pay attention to next time your out if you find nothing else wrong with the saw.
 
When you try to wiggle the chain from side to side in the bar, even if the chain is fairly loose, the chain should not be able to wiggle very much from side to side on the top of the bar. If there is too much of this, it will pull to one side and bind no matter what you do with the powerhead. If a condition is causing the bar to be lined up wrong you should be able to compensate by rotating the power head. The sprocket tip of the bar will be 0.063 so don't check it at the tip, but there should be very little wiggle near the powerhead on a new bar. The chain will also have markings on the teeth. An oregon chain will (i think) have a 72 stamped on the drive link indicating it is a 0.050. It would have to be a .058 bar (stamped on the bar) and a .050 chain for this to happen. might be a goose chase, however, mine behaves exactly like this when the bar gets worn.

The chains are Oregon and have 72 stamped on them and the bar is .050. The chain feels tight in the bar like my 346 feels (which cuts straight).
 
well since no ones said it ,buy a Stihl ,you wont have that problem anymore :jester:



have you tried flipping the bar so the decals are upside down see if any different ?
 
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In my heart I knew it was the chain, but it is looking more and more like I'm wrong! Does it do the same thing when cutting up with the top side of the bar? The only time mine will bind is when the chain is cutting in a different orientation than the plane of the bar, and this should only happen when the chain is wobbly, the bar is uneven, or has one side of the cutters is dulled.
Sorry to not be smarter!
 
Keep the saw of the dawgs and see what it does, i always cut hooks with me 361 until i got dual spikes and it fixed the problem:confused:
 
Mine would cut to the side when I only had one dog on and I was taking a knee. It would pull to one side. Had to learn to keep it straight and not pull it to the left. I say the same thing. Try some cuts off the dogs and see if it makes the difference. If it does then look at the dogs and make sure they're even. Shouldn't really be a way to make them off but it is possible I guess.

Buying a Stihl will only make things worse:hmm3grin2orange::potstir:

Hope you figure it out.:cheers:
 
if your cutting crooked with one spike your leaning on the saw to much. never had a prob with a single spike. just saying .:msp_smile:
 
if your cutting crooked with one spike your leaning on the saw to much. never had a prob with a single spike. just saying .:msp_smile:

Exactly. If the OP put on a new bar and a new chain and it still cuts crooked he might be horsing on the saw without meaning to. That happens a lot. Even on a new bar you can put enough side pressure on the chain to make it slop over enough that it isn't biting evenly.

A lot of times a guy might muscle the saw through the cuts instead of just letting it eat. That's a lot of unnecessary work. Stance, body position, hand position and how you direct the saw without meaning to can make for some crooked cuts.

Dogging in is fine...when it's called for...but dogging in and pulling hard on the handle doesn't always do a lot of good. Let the chain do the work.
 
Exactly. If the OP put on a new bar and a new chain and it still cuts crooked he might be horsing on the saw without meaning to. That happens a lot. Even on a new bar you can put enough side pressure on the chain to make it slop over enough that it isn't biting evenly.

A lot of times a guy might muscle the saw through the cuts instead of just letting it eat. That's a lot of unnecessary work. Stance, body position, hand position and how you direct the saw without meaning to can make for some crooked cuts.

Dogging in is fine...when it's called for...but dogging in and pulling hard on the handle doesn't always do a lot of good. Let the chain do the work.

This ^. Well put.
I cut for years with single dogs with no problems. Just now this last saw I got cuts crooked, but I believe it is the chain. The first log I bucked with it I hit a nail about the 5th cut, and after that things started corkscrewing on me. It's getting better every time I file the chain. I'm gonna say a new chain would get me back on the straight and narrow.
Even with the 24" bar, my old 61 with a single dog cuts nearly perfect through 3 footers. I never punish my saws and let the chain do its thing.
 
Exactly. If the OP put on a new bar and a new chain and it still cuts crooked he might be horsing on the saw without meaning to. That happens a lot. Even on a new bar you can put enough side pressure on the chain to make it slop over enough that it isn't biting evenly.

A lot of times a guy might muscle the saw through the cuts instead of just letting it eat. That's a lot of unnecessary work. Stance, body position, hand position and how you direct the saw without meaning to can make for some crooked cuts.

Dogging in is fine...when it's called for...but dogging in and pulling hard on the handle doesn't always do a lot of good. Let the chain do the work.

the saw was designed to do the work not you. and the av's will thank you also. you lean on a saw all day, all week you will not like your job much.:msp_wink:
 

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