40:1, 50:1 does it matter?

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Jacob J., I posted on the problem I had that I think came from 110octane racing fuel. I think the fuel or the additives in it caused a black gummy substance to build in the combustion chamber. The piston ring was stuck so tight I had to use heat to get it to release.
The saw only saw 110octane with Woodland Pro synthetic oil at 40 to 1. Not many responded to my thread but a few private messages agreed it was due to the racing gas.
I cleaned things up and the saw runs fine now.
 
If the saw is tuned for 50:1 and is run on 40:1 that will lean it out a tad, but enough to over heat, I'm not sure that is right.

To compensate for the 40:1 richen up the carb a tad.

If that is not right, someone set me straight.
i have an old 112 which i have run on 33 to 1 for years with no problems until recently it seems to bog out could this be the fuel
 
Jacob J., I posted on the problem I had that I think came from 110octane racing fuel. I think the fuel or the additives in it caused a black gummy substance to build in the combustion chamber. The piston ring was stuck so tight I had to use heat to get it to release.
The saw only saw 110octane with Woodland Pro synthetic oil at 40 to 1. Not many responded to my thread but a few private messages agreed it was due to the racing gas.
I cleaned things up and the saw runs fine now.
110 will always leave a grey ash and for a 2 cycle mix it will be more black not so much goo but yeah thats the way high octane race fuel is. Not a big deal it cleans up easy
 
Jacob J., I posted on the problem I had that I think came from 110octane racing fuel. I think the fuel or the additives in it caused a black gummy substance to build in the combustion chamber. The piston ring was stuck so tight I had to use heat to get it to release.
The saw only saw 110octane with Woodland Pro synthetic oil at 40 to 1. Not many responded to my thread but a few private messages agreed it was due to the racing gas.
I cleaned things up and the saw runs fine now.
Its the nature of high octane fuel. They ash up super truck and late model race engines too. The big thing about the race fuel is that it is only efficient with high compression engines. If you want a good cleaner fuel then go to ur local air field and buy some plane fuel it does have additives. But it does burn nice and it wont load ur engine up. Aviation standards are very high in every aspect for safety and reliability
 
I run sthil (grey bottle)6.4 oz to 2 gal 93 oct shell gas , in my ported saws, my stock saws,weedeaters,leaf blowers,never had any problems ,ever!!
 
good question ! anyone have answer i an curious as well !
Not too much difference after its warmed up and cleaned out but a hotter plug takes longer for the porcelain to dry. Ur saw should be just fine at 40:1 with good oil and 32:1 mix youl fin yourself going through a plug and cleaning ur screen more not a big issue those are cheap vs fried engine parts. The lean mix ratios of today is cause of epa standards so manufacturers can have there saws tested passed and sold on the market. Its bull shart but rules are made to be broken
 
Hey mod gods, could you please merge all the oil threads into one mega-thread? Just put all the responses into a blender and let them fall into what order they may. It really won't make a difference. I love oil threads.
 
you guys are all WRONG, my homelite C-51 says right on the fuel cap to run16:1 SAE 30w motor oil. I run that in all my says and the run..ish
Yeah this is a homelite zip and it was a heavy mix of motor oil. Went to a newer oil and a lil less of 32:1 and still clouds out the mosquitoes. But im not having the spark arrestor plug up as often. Good old saw just used it yesterday. 20141130_133023.jpg
 
My Stihl dealer told me their chainsaws will overheat with 40:1. No kidding!
Yeah what ever. That guy doesn't even know what toilet paper is. If he did he wouldn't be that full of sh!t. Anything can overheat no matter how much or little oil is mixed in. He should fire himself so he doesn't ruin the shops reputation anymore than he already has. Fart fart. Ooppps shart
 
i have an old 112 which i have run on 33 to 1 for years with no problems until recently it seems to bog out could this be the fuel
Maybe needs new rings...a compression test could varify this. Also make sure spark arrester is clean.....a blowtorch burns the carbon off and cleans them best but a wire brush will also work.
 
Its the nature of high octane fuel. They ash up super truck and late model race engines too. The big thing about the race fuel is that it is only efficient with high compression engines. If you want a good cleaner fuel then go to ur local air field and buy some plane fuel it does have additives. But it does burn nice and it wont load ur engine up. Aviation standards are very high in every aspect for safety and reliability
Yep, that's what I did or ah! do.
 
its your saw run what ever the hell you want in it but does this forum really need a topic over 5 pages that has been discussed for 14 years on this forum?
 
Maybe needs new rings...a compression test could varify this. Also make sure spark arrester is clean.....a blowtorch burns the carbon off and cleans them best but a wire brush will also work.
Yeah i clean screens like that torch em till they ash then wire brush. Better than new after that
 

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