40:1, 50:1 does it matter?

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I prefer to mix using the 6.4oz containers of mix. 50:1 is with 2.5 gallons of gas and 40:1 is with 2 gallons of gas. Those are EASY numbers to remember.

What would be the difference in volume of gas if 50:1 = 2.6 oz.oil to 1 gal.gas
how much gas will you use to make 40:1 with 2.6 oz oil?
 
I could be wrong, but I think you guys are missing the boat. It is not necessary what the manual says, but on what type/brand oil you are using.

Yes, Stihl recommends a mix at 50:1, but using their oil.

Not all 2 stroke oils are created the same. I've seen differences from 20:1 to 100:1.

If Sthil says 50:1 using their oil, then use 50:1 with their oil.

If in doubt, always go richer. Sure the saw will smoke and carbon could be an issue (over the long term), but too lean and she'll seize rather quicker with expen$ive results.
 
What about Amsoil's 100:1 Saber?



Thats what I use!! To answer the thread topic question.....It doesnt matter what mix ratio you use, 40:1, 50:1, or 100:1.

this question always cracks me up......mix is mix!! I live close to an Ashland fuel refinery/storage facility, a buddy of mine works the R&D dept. I have talked to him about this & even had him check out the different mix ratios!!

Guess what........No difference!!! there are only a hand full of mix Manufacturers, MTD-makes(supplies) for about 50% or better of power equip., husky, echo, stihl, etc.... all use the same Mfg but have their name put on the bottle!!

The ratio is just a mathmatical unit of measure providing the user with information on the amount of mix to be introduced to the product......thats it!! you will use more 40:1 than 100:1 but will get the same results in the end...... ohh. the wonderful green, blue & other colors are Mfg tinting dies & dont mean anything!!

Im sure some will chime in & try to make this seem very technical, but if a Lab tech tells me theres no difference in the amsoil mix as opposed to echos power blend as compared to husky/stihls mix after being tested.....whats that tell you!! more $$$$$$ for a name!!!


LXT..............
 
One good point: As an old time 2 stroke mechanic, make sure you buy 2 stroke oil formulated for AIR-COOLED ENGINES . You realize, 2 stroke oil, is made for outboard motors. They are WATER-COOLED ENGINES.If you buy the wrong oil, your piston/cylinder & rings are trash. Always read your owners manual for proper oil/gas ratios. Octane ratings are not the big problem. Some ethanol additives can cause failures, depending on ratio. Above 10% may cause issues. Check the signs around those pumps before purchase.Happy stroking!!!!:greenchainsaw:
 
2 stroke oil?? my old boss i trimmed trees for never used the stuff. he would buy a non detergent 30w oil and mix till the gas just turned color and looked right in his eyes. saws ran like a champ, never burned one up or fouled them out. he taught me how to do this but i eventualy converted to the mix. he saved money doing this and been doing it along time. now in a pinch i do this as i run that oil for my bar in cold weather as regular bar oil turns to thick when its cold. im just wondering if anyone else out there has done this?:confused:
 
2 stroke oil?? my old boss i trimmed trees for never used the stuff. he would buy a non detergent 30w oil and mix till the gas just turned color and looked right in his eyes. saws ran like a champ, never burned one up or fouled them out. he taught me how to do this but i eventualy converted to the mix. he saved money doing this and been doing it along time. now in a pinch i do this as i run that oil for my bar in cold weather as regular bar oil turns to thick when its cold. im just wondering if anyone else out there has done this?:confused:

My old man runs 30w for bar oil all the time. He say if his Old Farmall M can run on 30w oil for over fifty years now so can his chain. He cut 15 cords a year.
Jared
 
Has nothing to do with the oil industry.

It has to do with the EPA, trying to lean the saws out as much as possible.

It has been proven that harder working saws such as the 066/084, etc have burnt up running the recommended 50:1 on milling saws and heavy use.

I run 40:1 in everything. That is what husky and others used to run before the epa got their hands in the mix.

That is EXACTLY my feeling on this couldn't agree more...........
Nothing more than Stihl and Huskajunk making the saws spew less crap out the exhaust.
Yes oil is better now but 40-1 is still better(my fav 020T still tachs 14,000) on your saw than 50-1......
50-1 = higher tach/chain speed,less torque, higher temps, more bearing wear
40-1 = lower tach/chain speed,more torque,lower temps, less bearing wear

The "shops" standard answer is "its made to run like that" and it is .......but they also know it wears out sooner and you are alot closer to burn out.

CHECK THIS OUT:
-You run your 020T/MS200T(piss on husky) at 50-1 and adjust the high jet to run around 15K unloaded.
-You are up a tree with a full tank limbing your way up.....little do you know that your tank vent is clogged(the increasing vacuum in the tank starts to lean out your high end).
-You probably would never notice the lean issue on the way up a conifer(fast short limb cuts)
-You burn up about half a tank on a large D fir or Pondo just on the way up.
-Your at the top, you make your face to top the tree(ambient saw temp just went way up)
-If your like me you tach the saw to max on the back cut lest the saw gag,stop,stutter,hang etc. while making the most critical cut.......In the heat of the moment(at this point I dont care how hard I'm being on the saw I just don't want my saw to quite in the back cut while my groundy is pulling the top)
-Recipe for seizure: Your saw tachs way to high due to the vac in the tank, the 50-1 mix, the already lean jet and the prolonged heavy load (back cut or blocking)
-The heat is REALLY high in a 020T doing a back cut in 14" wood.

NO THANKS I'll keep running 40-1


FYI: The unused gas/oil going out the exhaust actually helps pull heat out of the saw.
 
So even if your saw mfg recommends 50:1 you are still better off running 40:1 correct? It makes sense to me.
 
So even if your saw mfg recommends 50:1 you are still better off running 40:1 correct? It makes sense to me.

40:1 in the "modern" high end stuff anyway...........
Are their really any saws besides Stihl and husky?
 
That is EXACTLY my feeling on this couldn't agree more...........
Nothing more than Stihl and Huskajunk making the saws spew less crap out the exhaust.
Yes oil is better now but 40-1 is still better(my fav 020T still tachs 14,000) on your saw than 50-1......
50-1 = higher tach/chain speed,less torque, higher temps, more bearing wear
40-1 = lower tach/chain speed,more torque,lower temps, less bearing wear

The "shops" standard answer is "its made to run like that" and it is .......but they also know it wears out sooner and you are alot closer to burn out.

CHECK THIS OUT:
-You run your 020T/MS200T(piss on husky) at 50-1 and adjust the high jet to run around 15K unloaded.
-You are up a tree with a full tank limbing your way up.....little do you know that your tank vent is clogged(the increasing vacuum in the tank starts to lean out your high end).
-You probably would never notice the lean issue on the way up a conifer(fast short limb cuts)
-You burn up about half a tank on a large D fir or Pondo just on the way up.
-Your at the top, you make your face to top the tree(ambient saw temp just went way up)
-If your like me you tach the saw to max on the back cut lest the saw gag,stop,stutter,hang etc. while making the most critical cut.......In the heat of the moment(at this point I dont care how hard I'm being on the saw I just don't want my saw to quite in the back cut while my groundy is pulling the top)
-Recipe for seizure: Your saw tachs way to high due to the vac in the tank, the 50-1 mix, the already lean jet and the prolonged heavy load (back cut or blocking)
-The heat is REALLY high in a 020T doing a back cut in 14" wood.

NO THANKS I'll keep running 40-1


FYI: The unused gas/oil going out the exhaust actually helps pull heat out of the saw.



Not to be cruel....But this is the biggest bunch of :censored: crap Ive ever heard!!! I have an 020 & have ran just about every ratio on gods earth & that Tach reading is the same no matter what!!

ratio`s do not matter!!!! read my earlier post regarding Ashland oil`s R&D dept testing the various mix ratios.......They all tested the SAME!!!!


LXT..............
 
Thats what I use!! To answer the thread topic question.....It doesnt matter what mix ratio you use, 40:1, 50:1, or 100:1.



Guess what........No difference!!! there are only a hand full of mix Manufacturers, MTD-makes(supplies) for about 50% or better of power equip., husky, echo, stihl, etc.... all use the same Mfg but have their name put on the bottle!!

The ratio is just a mathmatical unit of measure providing the user with information on the amount of mix to be introduced to the product......thats it!! you will use more 40:1 than 100:1 but will get the same results in the end......


LXT..............

If that is true than go ahead and mix your saw gas at 100:1 and tell us how it goes!...........jack%^$!
 
Amsoil 100:1

A friend at work swears by this stuff. Amsoil 100:1 in any and all 2 stroke engine. He claims to have called Amsoil and talked to an engineer.

He used to race snowmobiles and claims with less oil he gets more gas(richer, cooler).
More gas= more power.
After every season he would tear down the engine and everything looks good as new.

I have no reason to doubt him as he is quite a motorhead, but my stuff gets 50:1. I dont want to prove him right or wrong with my engines.
 
If that is true than go ahead and mix your saw gas at 100:1 and tell us how it goes!...........jack%^$!


I do every day!! Amsoil 100:1 & have been doing so for the better part of my tree career.............guess what? NO PROBLEMS!!! Jack%^$! :dizzy:

I guess you have tested & know better than those who have? ...what a meat whistle!!


LXT...........
 
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