Don't think anyone said everything like that, I simply made suggestions based on my experience. I'm out of here.
40:1 or 50:1 mix on 372XP
- Thread starter firewoodpanaca
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
Not directed at you. It's just what we do here, me included. We run fancy race-bike oil, mixed with super-gas. The fact that many (if not a majority) of pro users simply use what's cheapest, just doesn't matter to us.
Sorry this hasn't been my experience.
I don't run rev limiters and I run 'em on edge. The 372 takes the rev's and thats a big part as why I run it. I can offer a few things here;
Quality over quantity:
I was told in the fall of 92' when I can back from a thinning job and dropped my very new 262 off at Walker's saw shop and that the cause was cheap oil. Mr Walker wagged his finger at me and said "always stay away from the gas station brands"
I'll take Castrol or Stihl (Castrol) or Husqvarna XP at 50/1 in a ported 372 well over 32/1 in a stock 372 with less desirable brands any day simply because it worked for two decades. Having said that I've heard these "gas station brands have come a long way in 20 yrs??? Its not something I'm willing to experiment with.
I have seen a lot of internal breakdowns of 365's. A mechanic I knew would get all the Asplundh slasher saws in boxes. Some it was top ends and others clutch side bearings or big end on the crank. Ones that had good cranks he usually would have to find a good case. I don't know how many times he spent a full day cleaning, porting...then the crank would last a day in the customers hands.
I would contribute most of that due to new bearings but these slashers are out there right now killing these saws.
Its so much more than 40/1 vs 50/1 ect or "The 372 needs lots of oil"
Its general education and the "cans and can'ts"
A pattern I would see a lot was they were missing the nylon chain guide so then they would tighten the chain so tight contributing to botton end failure.
I have a couple bad chain throws and it starts to derail to often then I reach into the bag of them I have and replace it.
-Dirty filters
- Rips in the air filter from cleaning with bar wrenches
Top end carbon buildup taking out the top end. Likely tuned back negitive four-stroking to compensate for a manifold leak
I would be willing to bet my same bottom ends would go 4/1 on life against this level of operator and I kick the living $hit out of my saws.
Others peoples saws may last longer than mine would but for me with proper maintenance the bottom and top ends will FAR exceed the cheap little piece of $hit saw the rest if it is. I've got 20 production days on my new one and its been hit a few times, flipped, flung flopped droped and stoped. Bent full wrap on my clutch side and just installed my third trigger lock and second on/off switch.
So what was the reason I decided to go to
40/1 then???
Woo- well I didn't want to go against you guys.
its not like that man, i like listening to most all of you guy's knowledge. Mostly I cant give likes because its way over my head yeah 'Dumbass' thats me and now you have a name to go with the pretty face.
20yrs on the 372 thats all I got 25,000 pro hours thats it! Its all I got.
With all this talk about fuel and blends. We have husky. Great dealer, good support. I run the husky 50:1 with AV gas. Yes airplane fuel. We have done it for years. Idk why but the dealer swears it is designed to run in air cooled engines and the small amount of lead in it helps Idk if that's right or not. If it's the best or not. But we have been doing it for years in anything 2-stroke. Also a big big plus is it takes a long time for the fuel to go bad.
Going to run Amsoil tell something blows . On the butt dyno it makes more power
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
I didn't read that Article but having been involved with 125 & 250 air & liquid cooled 1 & 2 pot road racing 2 smoke motor bikes, from 1955 to the demise in favor of 4 stroke 5 valve singles. I have experienced the comings & goings of 2 smoke power things like factory kits, power valves,fancy computerized ignition systems, but over all of this time frame 1 thing remained constant, the more oil you poured in the mix (within reason) the harder, better the motor would (tuned mixture correctly) perform The track the race was being held at was also a factor, The longer the straight/s /time that throttle was held fully open was also a factor, for the oil/fuel ratio, more oil for the longer time the throttle remained fully open. Therefore as a saw has only 2 throttle positions,idle, & wide open following the proven findings it seems that a "richer" oil ratio would give (tuned correctly) a better performance although saws in general are less performance orientated than competition bikes the oil mix is still to my mind a factor during my time I have used all manner of brands/types of oil from mineral, R40, & all brews of semi/synth, 100% synth. Final brand /brew being Ipone Samouri. I in no way want to tell people what & how they should mix their fuel/oil, but posting something which goes against a lot of info by guys much more expert than I am as fact/way to go to my mind is not helpful for guys with less knowledge
50:1?
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
What would the best ratio be if all you do is sit on a stump and piss rev all day?
Straight gas...for a short outing
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
How many rpm can one expect, just before it chits the bed?
14K at least stock, 15-16K ported
Wasn't there a thread in the CSF awhile back on a Husky that was straight gassed for a couple minutes with no apparent damage?
80 : 1
