460 steel cylinder gasket sealer?

[1953greg]

is there a sealer that is supposed to be used on/with the ms460 steel cylinder gasket? i cant find anything about it in tech manual or forum search. am i missing something or is it just metal on metal? this is my first one and i need all the info i can get. any pointers?

thanks in advance good day 1953greg

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

It's probably a crush seal. I've never had my 460's jug off, but any time you have a metal gasket, and it's metal on metal, it's supposed to deform and seal when tightened down, and isn't to be reused. Shouldn't need any sealant on it. Torque it to spec, which should be somewhere about 6-8 ft-lbs, if I remember correctly.

Andy?

Jeff

 

[SmithEC]

That 15 Nm converts to about 11 ft-lbs.

(that Nm value assumes that I correctly understand what it is you're doing)

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I got home and checked the manual, instead of guessing and going from memory. It is 11 ft-lbs exactly.

Jeff

 

[1953greg]

thanks guys im headed to the shop.

maybe play n the snow for a while. 4" yesterday. thats a major event dn here.

good day 1953greg

 

[Lakeside53]

It's probably a crush seal. I've never had my 460's jug off, but any time you have a metal gasket, and it's metal on metal, it's supposed to deform and seal when tightened down, and isn't to be reused. Shouldn't need any sealant on it. Torque it to spec, which should be somewhere about 6-8 ft-lbs, if I remember correctly.

Andy?

Jeff

Yes, its a crush type. Absolutely no sealer and very clean mating surfaces are required. Look carefully where the case gasket meets the cylinder surface, both front and back. If it's not perfectly flush, I put a tiny dab of Hylomar HPF or Dirko right on the gasket.

 

[THALL10326]

is there a sealer that is supposed to be used on/with the ms460 steel cylinder gasket? i cant find anything about it in tech manual or forum search. am i missing something or is it just metal on metal? this is my first one and i need all the info i can get. any pointers?

thanks in advance good day 1953greg

Hey Greg I see your getting into the bad boy, cool. Hopefully this Monday I will go by the post office and send ya those 2 parts ya asked me about. Before I do though is there anything else ya need? I got a bunch of stuff in the box that fit that saw so let me know.........................

 

[1953greg]

varooooooom!!!!!

i put a little bitty dab of permatex anaerobic (couldnt find hpf) on the case joints after cleaning up the big bore cylinder ports w/ 200 grit emery cloth and finished w/ crocus cloth. used plenty of 2 cycle assembly oil. put everything together and got a pop on the third pull!! i had turned the engine over w/ flywheel til i smelled gas. wasnt ready for the pop and jerked the rope out of my hand. choke off, 2 pulls and the 460 came to life!!!!!! wow!!!!! smoking machine!! looked like a diesel engine starting up.

i let it idle for 1/4 tank, maybe 30 minutes, occasionally fast idle to clear out.
stopped n started it 3 or 4 times. was tough to resisted the temptation to crack the throttle but i didnt. oil was dripping from the muffler. is that normal?

this is my first cylinder piston replacement (bought the saw from local lawn n garden center, bb kit fron baileys) and thanks to you guys a complete success. most difficult thing was making sure the rings met at the locating pin. checking top one is easy as one can put the break n the ring compressor over it. i finally wiggled the compressor up enough to see the bottom ring. another point, the wrist pin clips do not have near the tension of the oem clips. this kit arrived friday the 10th. i assume they were the "improved" ones. has anyone else noticed the lac of tension. i almost put the oem ones back in.

wil use it gently for a couple tanks then lay it to the wood.

anyhow, thanks again everyone for your comments. surely would not have had the perserverence w/o your help.

good day 1953greg :greenchainsaw:

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Lookin' like a diesel and oil out of the muffler sounds a bit rich to me. Check your rpms and go from there.

And I think I remember someone with a big bore kit which spit it's clips and it ate the saw. If they're loose, or not tight enough, use the OEM. You don't want those coming out!

Jeff

 

[1953greg]

Lookin' like a diesel and oil out of the muffler sounds a bit rich to me. Check your rpms and go from there.

And I think I remember someone with a big bore kit which spit it's clips and it ate the saw. If they're loose, or not tight enough, use the OEM. You don't want those coming out!

Jeff

Jeff,
the abundant smoke was the first 10-15 seconds! guess i left too much oil n the case. the muffler dripping was because of rich. i intentionally set it rich for bout 20 min. i checked the plug and looked inside cylinder after 30 min of idleing. was richer than i intended.

as for the clips, 10-4 on them coming out. they are snug but certainly not as much tension as the oem. maybe i need to bounce it off of grande dog.

good day 1953greg

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

as for the clips, 10-4 on them coming out. they are snug but certainly not as much tension as the oem. maybe i need to bounce it off of grande dog

Yep, better safe than sorry. You might also ask Dean at WA Hot Saws. If I'm not mistaken he's done a couple of mods with the bb kits.

Jeff

 

[Lakeside53]

I'm with Jeff... dump those Taiwan clips in the garbage. This also goes for ALL the piston kits supposedly from Germany showing up on the market... they also have the curly tail clip that fails.

It's not the Static tension so much, but the inertial forces generated on the clip as it move up and down... the tail is pulled down releasing the tension...