49cc: Bar, chain, pitch, gauge, sprockets, oh my

[bheggeseth]

I have spent the last few days reading everything I could find on best/ideal/preferred bar size and nose type, chain style, chain pitch and gauge, and sprocket size. The general conclusion is to go with what is commonly sold at your local shop, with some general guidelines. It also seems that some of the guidelines are split at the 50cc line. I have listed my thoughts below and would apreciate any comments, note my saw is an older 49cc saw which has more torque than speed and will only see occasional use but is my only saw.

• Bar length – 16”: can’t think of any time I came up against a tree by myself any larger than 16”
• Bar nose – sprocket or hardnose: I am on the fence on this one, comes down to likelihood of locking up a nose sprocket vs chain wear & increased power consumption, or is all of this a non-point
• Chain: thinking some kind of semi-chisel
• Chain pitch – 3/8” or .325: this one seems to have no clear answer, suggestions?
• Chain gauge - .050 or .063: would going with the larger gauge have any drawbacks other that potential availability, or is there another aspect to factor in?
• Sprocket – 7 or 8 tooth: probably go with a 7 tooth rim sprocket

 

[Duane(Pa)]

16" 3/8x .050 is about as vanilla as you can get. About the only variable left is 59 or 60 drive links. My .02 DW

 

[Hedgerow]

I have spent the last few days reading everything I could find on best/ideal/preferred bar size and nose type, chain style, chain pitch and gauge, and sprocket size. The general conclusion is to go with what is commonly sold at your local shop, with some general guidelines. It also seems that some of the guidelines are split at the 50cc line. I have listed my thoughts below and would apreciate any comments, note my saw is an older 49cc saw which has more torque than speed and will only see occasional use but is my only saw.

• Bar length – 16”: can’t think of any time I came up against a tree by myself any larger than 16”
• Bar nose – sprocket or hardnose: I am on the fence on this one, comes down to likelihood of locking up a nose sprocket vs chain wear & increased power consumption, or is all of this a non-point
• Chain: thinking some kind of semi-chisel
• Chain pitch – 3/8” or .325: this one seems to have no clear answer, suggestions?
• Chain gauge - .050 or .063: would going with the larger gauge have any drawbacks other that potential availability, or is there another aspect to factor in?
• Sprocket – 7 or 8 tooth: probably go with a 7 tooth rim sprocket

3/8 and a 7 pin...
Sprocket on bar.
Hardnose bars are bad juju
16" bar in whatever driver thickness as is common at your local watering hole.

My personal preference is 3/8 .050 on a 16" bar. 60DL / 7 pin rim.
But I got a couple bars that prefer a 59DL chain.
If you opt for semi-chisel chain, go the Stihl RMC route.
But I prefer Stihl RSC or Oregon LGX chisel chain.

 

[ROWDY]

I have spent the last few days reading everything I could find on best/ideal/preferred bar size and nose type, chain style, chain pitch and gauge, and sprocket size. The general conclusion is to go with what is commonly sold at your local shop, with some general guidelines. It also seems that some of the guidelines are split at the 50cc line. I have listed my thoughts below and would apreciate any comments, note my saw is an older 49cc saw which has more torque than speed and will only see occasional use but is my only saw.

• Bar length – 16”: can’t think of any time I came up against a tree by myself any larger than 16”
• Bar nose – sprocket or hardnose: I am on the fence on this one, comes down to likelihood of locking up a nose sprocket vs chain wear & increased power consumption, or is all of this a non-point
• Chain: thinking some kind of semi-chisel
• Chain pitch – 3/8” or .325: this one seems to have no clear answer, suggestions?
• Chain gauge - .050 or .063: would going with the larger gauge have any drawbacks other that potential availability, or is there another aspect to factor in?
• Sprocket – 7 or 8 tooth: probably go with a 7 tooth rim sprocket

Bar length- I myself lik 20" for less back bending but that would be max.

Bar Nose- Sprocket simply for less issues.

Chain- Semi-chisel is perfect for an occasional use one saw plan.

Chain Pitch- 3/8" simply stronger and available every where.

Chain gauge- 50.

sprocket- 7

That's my 2 cents if can suggest for only having one older saw at 49cc and oc

Your quote:
note my saw is an older 49cc saw which has more torque than speed casional use.

If that is an old Mac....An Oergon Combo would be a good thought.

 

[fossil]

What kind of saw is it?

I have mostly 3/8 on my saws but run .325 on an Stihl 026 and a 46 cc Poulan 285.
Both are 7 pin, the Stihl is .063, the Poulan is .058 (popular in Canada)
Chains are Oregon chisel on the Poulan and Oregon semi BPX on the Stihl
Both cut very well.

If you don't need a new sprocket, why not stick with the pitch you have now?

 

[Philbert]

. . . note my saw is an older 49cc saw which has more torque than speed and will only see occasional use but is my only saw.

Welcome to A.S.! (won't be your only saw for long . . . )

Some of it can depend on the specific saw brand and model, which you did not share (cardinal error, along with no pics!)

A 50 cc saw with a 16 inch bar is as Ford Taurus/Toyota Camry/Honda Accord as you can get. Make sure to wear khakis and a blue oxford shirt with it.

Staying mainstream: a sprocket nose bar, a 7 tooth sprocket, and a semi-chisel chain - the 'all season radials' of chainsaw chain.

I dsagree with the herd on chain pitch. In my mind, 3/8 chain is better suited to larger saws that have more power to pull it. Just because a smaller powerhead can pull it does not mean that it is optimized. Powerhead, chain, and bar should be thought of as a 'system'. I would go with .325 pitch, .050 gauge (easy to find).

Don't be embarrassed by having the ultimate middle class saw. There is a reason why these specs are so popular. I would not deviate (e.g. go to a hard nosed bar or some exotic chain, unless you have a solid reason to justify it.

Rim sprockets are an advantage when you replace them: for only 'occasional use', I would not sweat it. Some saws are only sold with spur sprockets and a rim set up can be hard to find. I find it easier to change chains on a spur sprocket.

Philbert

 

[PJF1313]

What kind of saw is it?

I have mostly 3/8 on my saws but run .325 on an Stihl 026 and a 46 cc Poulan 285.
Both are 7 pin, the Stihl is .063, the Poulan is .058 (popular in Canada)
Chains are Oregon chisel on the Poulan and Oregon semi BPX on the Stihl
Both cut very well.

If you don't need a new sprocket, why not stick with the pitch you have now?

And that's the $1.98 question...

Some like .325 better than 3/8, others like 3/8 L.P. better than .325.

 

[bheggeseth]

The saw is a jonsered 52e with a 15" bar, the bar tip is stamped 3/8P, no idea what the bar gauge is. The sprocket is a 7 tooth rim sprocket but is worn and needs to be replaced, the chain has no identifiable markings, I can only hope/guess that the bar, chain, and sprocket that the saw was wearing were matched correctly.

 

[mattinky]

3/8p usually denotes "picco" or 3/8 low profile chain, which is very common on smaller saws. It's not the same as regular 3/8 chain... I'm with Philbert on this, I'd go with 16" .325 x .050, personally I like .325 much better than 3/8LP and a 16" bar is perfect on a 49cc saw.

 

[PJF1313]

3/8p usually denotes "picco" or 3/8 low profile chain, which is very common on smaller saws. It's not the same as regular 3/8 chain... I'm with Philbert on this, I'd go with 16" .325 x .050, personally I like .325 much better than 3/8LP and a 16" bar is perfect on a 49cc saw.

+1



BUT, if you don't want to change the drive sprocket, and spend more $$ on a .325 set-up, I'd just go with what ever 3/8 LP/Picco is common in your area. Here, on Wrong Island, it's .050 gauge.

I would also keep in the 15-16" range.

As far as the sprocket, I'd keep it stock @7. 8 may be too much for the saw to handle, buried.

Sprocket nose bar does run better in cleaner woods, but needs to be matched to the chain pitch.
A solid noise will be better in dirty/sand/soil impregnated wood, but doesn't care what pitch chain it runs on, as long as the gauge is correct.

 

[fossil]

The saw is a jonsered 52e with a 15" bar, the bar tip is stamped 3/8P, no idea what the bar gauge is. The sprocket is a 7 tooth rim sprocket but is worn and needs to be replaced, the chain has no identifiable markings, I can only hope/guess that the bar, chain, and sprocket that the saw was wearing were matched correctly.

It looks to me like the chain may be a regular 3/8 pitch chain but the photo is a little fuzzy. It also looks like it's on backwards.
Have a look and see. Look at the depth gauges ahead of the cutters and see if there is a .375 or .325 stamped on them.

 

[fearofpavement]

The chain is definitely on backwards in the photo. If you tried cutting with it this way it didn't work very well, eh?

Anyways, what is wrong with the bar and chain you already have on the saw? The saw looks lightly used and with as much paint as there is on the bar it is unlikely to be worn out. Might need a bit of "dressing".

The sprocket may be worn if it was running the drivers backwards but try turning the chain around, sharpen it up and see what you have. You may not need much to be back in business.

As far as replacement gear, my suggestion is to get more of what you already have. Saw manufacturers usually set up a saw with a bar/chain combo suited for that saw. Sure it can be altered but not likely much improvement other than maybe go with a more aggressive chain if you're comfortable dealing with it.

Welcome to AS.

 

[fossil]

The chain is definitely on backwards in the photo. If you tried cutting with it this way it didn't work very well, eh?

Welcome to AS.

Like, have you been hanging around with my countrymen, eh?

 

[PJF1313]

It looks to me like the chain may be a regular 3/8 pitch chain but the photo is a little fuzzy. It also looks like it's on backwards.
Have a look and see. Look at the depth gauges ahead of the cutters and see if there is a .375 or .325 stamped on them.

The chain is definitely on backwards in the photo. If you tried cutting with it this way it didn't work very well, eh?

Anyways, what is wrong with the bar and chain you already have on the saw? The saw looks lightly used and with as much paint as there is on the bar it is unlikely to be worn out. Might need a bit of "dressing".

The sprocket may be worn if it was running the drivers backwards but try turning the chain around, sharpen it up and see what you have. You may not need much to be back in business.

As far as replacement gear, my suggestion is to get more of what you already have. Saw manufacturers usually set up a saw with a bar/chain combo suited for that saw. Sure it can be altered but not likely much improvement other than maybe go with a more aggressive chain if you're comfortable dealing with it.

Welcome to AS.

I didn't see the pic before, but I agree with the above posters - the chain looks backwards to me also.

 

[Cantdog]

Very standard 52/52E setup would be 16" bar...3/8" pitch.... .058" gauge... 7 pin rim....normal as butter on bread.....this is a heavy duty pro built saw...though only 49cc..... .325 is better on the semi pro 49sp.....

 

[bheggeseth]

I was headed out of town for the weekend and wanted to quickly snap a few pics to post before I left; yes as I look at the other pics I took I can clearly see the chain is on backwards, not the the best way to make a first impression. I have yet to run the saw since it was purchased, it is safe to say the sprocket wear is not from misuse, or at least not mine. I have added some better pictures of the bar, and yes there is probably no reason if the bar is in good shape not to keep using it. Using a dial caliper the bar gauge measures approx .070", would this suggest the bar started its life as a .063" bar? As for chain markings the only marking is the brand.

On a lighter note and in the spirit of backwards chain picture: the first time I borrowed my buddy's ms170 about halfway into the morning I went to restart the saw, it would start but as hard as I could rev up the saw it would not turn the chain. I tried to adjust the chain tension but it would not help. After some more tinkering I somehow discovered the chain brake was on, after that the saw worked just fine. Up until this point in my life the only other chainsaw I had ever used was my dad's jonsered 70e which was made in a time before fancy cosmetic features like chain brakes...

Thanks again for everyone's comments.

 

[Philbert]

Using a dial caliper the bar gauge measures approx .070", would this suggest the bar started its life as a .063" bar?

The chain gauge might be stamped on the lower part of the bar. The Oregon manual has lots of good information on bar, chain, sprocket wear etc. Here is one part on checking to see if the groove is too far worn.

Philbert

OREGON Maintenance and Safety Manual

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=287974&d=1360547586

 

[bheggeseth]

Philbert,

Looking at your attached picture my bar may fit the right drawing on the picture. My caliper was only able to measure the very top of the rails which appears to not be the best way to determine the original gauge. I will have to try and look up the numbers on the bar for more information. If someone has the info at hand the bar has the following stamping.

bar tip: SRA-222-A11 3/8P
bar body: A98x, 3164, and 5838-56

 

[ROWDY]

I think your bar is fine. You want some room for the oil to flow throughout the bar. I would wory about your sprocket right now.

 

[fossil]

Philbert,

Looking at your attached picture my bar may fit the right drawing on the picture. My caliper was only able to measure the very top of the rails which appears to not be the best way to determine the original gauge. I will have to try and look up the numbers on the bar for more information. If someone has the info at hand the bar has the following stamping.

bar tip: SRA-222-A11 3/8P
bar body: A98x, 3164, and 5838-56

It's a Windsor 3/8 bar. Their markings are hard to decipher if it was made specdifically for a saw manufacturer.
I would suspect it is 56 drive links.

Clean up the bar and make sure you file off any burrs on the rail edges, file the rails so the rails are parallel ( same height ), sharpen the chain and give it a go. If it cuts straight, keep it and use it.
They are well made bars.
Carlton stamps the chain gauge on the drive links on the part buried in the bar rails. I think A1 is 0,050. A2 would be 0.058. It may be worn off.

Nice saw!