511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?

[old guy]

I never stay on one cutter as long as he did in the video, just one quick touch then move on to the next one, if it needs more I go around again, this avoids hardening the cutters and keeps them all the same length.

 

[Majorpayne]

Are you asking how many or how often, and what condition are the chains?

Do you sharpen for other people or just your own?

 

[user 122190]

Others even more then my own. And some are in awful condition, abused and barely cut. I've had to pass abused chains thru the grinder 10 times or more. I'm not doing that anymore. For now on, a chain in such condition I will refuse to restore.

Do you sharpen for other people or just your own?

 

[Majorpayne]

Others even more then my own. And some are in awful condition, abused and barely cut. I've had to pass abused chains thru the grinder 10 times or more. I'm not doing that anymore. For now on, a chain in such condition I will refuse to restore.

You don't have to do that with cbn wheels.

 

[user 122190]

Do what?

You don't have to do that with cbn wheels.

 

[Majorpayne]

Do what?

Make 10 passes.

Sent from my SM-S903VL using Tapatalk

 

[Philbert]

Send dimensions and an address and I’ll get one in the mail.....
Let me know ID radius/champher allowed. Should be a little thinner than the wheel.

That is very generous of you - sending PM with address, etc.

I am not a machinist, and may be a bit clumsy with my dial caliper, but I checked a bunch of wheels (CBN, vitrified, and resinoid) and a few grinders, and this is what I got (maybe some other guys can verify?)

5-3/4 inch Oregon / Tecomec grinder wheels: 0.872" - 0.873" ID (7/8" nominal, * one was 0.878)

Oregon / Tecomec grinder shafts: 0.8705" OD

3/16 inch (nominal) wheel thickness: 0.187" - 0.202", plus thickness of 2 paper wheel blotters, Note that wheel flanges on grinders are also bell-shaped, so bushing does not have to fit flush with wheel. (FYI - CBN plate was 0.167, but bushing would not be used with this wheel)

8 inch Silvey grinder wheels: 1.005" - 1.013" ID (1" nominal, *surprised to see this much variance!)

Silvery RazurSharp II grinder shaft: 1.00" OD

So, I am guessing that a bushing with the following would fit?
0.872" ID
1.00" OD
0.200" width / thickness

Philbert

 

[Stihl 041S]

I’ll make a couple, tighter and looser, Incase something isnt round.

Your dimensions all make sense.

 

[Vtrombly]

If we really want to get fussy maybe repeat the wheel measurements with a micrometer. Calipers are ok for rough measurements but often are not good to within .005 they are decent for checking overall lengths such as cutter lengths. For best accuracy for thickness a micrometer verified with master gauge blocks would get you a very accurate measurement.

 

[Philbert]

I could do the grinder shaft OD with a micrometer, but don't know how to measure the ID of the grinder wheels with one.

Philbert

 

[old guy]

I have A couple of different sets of I D mics but is all this necessary, you can't hold that close when you pull the lever.
I did buy another 511a today.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

The vise on the 511A, 511AX, 520, or another branded grinder, etc.?

A number of different vise designs have been used. On the 511A, I developed a wear spot in one clamping plate from the cam, but the plate was drilled so that it could be shifted over to a new spot. If you count all of the positioning locations of both vise plates, you have multiple wear locations until the plates have to be replaced. Similar vises used on 510, and other grinders.

On the 511AX there were a few different wear issues:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511ax-vise.228345/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-511ax-vise-update.276361/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511ax-repair-mod-and-similar-units.263497/

The current 520 uses a cam clamp that applies pressure from both sides.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/BenchGrinder_520-120.htm

Philbert

The cam wears out. Plate is still fine.

 

[Philbert]

I did buy another 511a today.

Building a fleet?

Philbert

 

[Stihl 041S]

I have A couple of different sets of I D mics but is all this necessary, you can't hold that close when you pull the lever.
I did buy another 511a today.

Nice to have a grinder for each size isn’t it. Lol

 

[chipper1]

Nice to have a grinder for each size isn’t it. Lol

And one for the rakers .

 

[Stihl 041S]

And one for the rakers .

Lookin for a Silvey for that.......me and everyone else. Lol

 

[chipper1]

Lookin for a Silvey for that.......me and everyone else. Lol

You didn't find one yet.
I need to borrow one and just make a bunch of them.

 

[Stihl 041S]

You didn't find one yet.
I need to borrow one and just make a bunch of them.

I may make one out of an angle grinder. A tight fit and good stops......I’ve made specialty saws out of them before.......thanks for the push. I just don’t build things sometime. I’ve built lots of things from HT ovens to tensile testers. Dam.....

 

[chipper1]

I may make one out of an angle grinder. A tight fit and good stops......I’ve made specialty saws out of them before.......thanks for the push. I just don’t build things sometime. I’ve built lots of things from HT ovens to tensile testers. Dam.....

Seems to me it would be easy enough, can't imagine someone hasn't done it yet.
A good lower speed Dremel such device would be light weight enough. The other thing I've thought about is using a stop beside the we on one of these grinders that would be adjustable. You would still have to manually move the chain just as when you are sharpening, and you could adjust how much you want to take off.
Is it really hard to do, if I had a nice shop I think I would have done it already .

 

[Stihl 041S]

Seems to me it would be easy enough, can't imagine someone hasn't done it yet.
A good lower speed Dremel such device would be light weight enough. The other thing I've thought about is using a stop beside the we on one of these grinders that would be adjustable. You would still have to manually move the chain just as when you are sharpening, and you could adjust how much you want to take off.
Is it really hard to do, if I had a nice shop I think I would have done it already .

When I did the saw it was to cut subflooring to help my brother. Used a carbide tipped blade ad ground them to neutral and it ate flooring nails. Set it just above the joist. Cut almost to the wall.
With a grinder it could be a wider for strength. Adjustable speed and set the speed with a clip and have a switch for on/off. Slow so it doesn’t burn.....a fine pitch for adjustment.
PM an email or phone number and in a day or so I’ll send a sketch and you can post it and let folks tear it apart for faults.
Do that a couple of times and then build one.
We’ve been real busy at work. I still owe Philbert his shim. I’ve been doing big stuff but there is some smaller stuff coming up tomorrow so I’ll get it done.