511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?

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Not sure if you were suggesting this, but you put an idea in my head: slice through the bushing so that it is a split ring, adaptable to slightly different arbor diameters.

I will give you the credit for inspiring this .

Philbert

Just was thinking the heat treating process could allow for the tolerance differences if they pre machine then heat treat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I just some chains in to sharpen today, no wonder they wouldn't cut, no hook angle on the side plate maybe a 10 degree reverse angle and the rakers too high. Those chains didn't have a chance of cutting even if sharp without using huge force. Steve
 
I just some chains in to sharpen today, no wonder they wouldn't cut, no hook angle on the side plate maybe a 10 degree reverse angle and the rakers too high. Those chains didn't have a chance of cutting even if sharp without using huge force. Steve
 
Bump!

Saw this in a video: interesting mounting option. This guy used the wall mount holes to bolt the grinder to a board, then clamps the board in a bench vise. This provides additional height (and maybe some height adjustment), versus just mounting a cleat to the bottom of the grinder. (happens to be a clone grinder, but same principle would work with a 511A).

Philbert

Screen shot 2020-03-19 at 11.11.09 AM.png
Screen shot 2020-03-19 at 11.10.53 AM.png
 
Bump!

Saw this in a video: interesting mounting option. This guy used the wall mount holes to bolt the grinder to a board, then clamps the board in a bench vise. This provides additional height (and maybe some height adjustment), versus just mounting a cleat to the bottom of the grinder. (happens to be a clone grinder, but same principle would work with a 511A).

Philbert

View attachment 808496
View attachment 808495
I did something similar with mine too. I lag bolted a 2x2 to the bottom mounting holes and clamp it in the bench vise
 
I wonder why he has multimeter leads/clips hooked up too the grinder? Any ideas...this is in the video Phil posted.
No idea. Just visible for a few seconds.
Someone posted that video somewhere (?) and I just scanned it quickly. The way he mounted the grinder was the most interesting part to me.
Due to the interest, I searched YouTube and found the original if folks want to view it (12:46 minutes); at least half is focused mostly on milling. He also discusses modifying a clone grinder and using a CBN wheel, but some things may be of interest.
.

And why is the grinder setup soCLEAN!!!!????
Maybe he cleaned it for the video?
Maybe he is related to @heimannm ?

Philbert
 
And why is the grinder setup soCLEAN!!!!????
I too had the exact same thought, brand new CBN wheel, brand new grinder without any evidence of actual use, its not exactly wisdom from experience here or 'look after grinding a few thousand chains'...I'll show you a few things I've learnt about these grinders. Its 'follow me on YouTube, I have a new grinder, $100 wheel & a GoPro'. Whether its filing vids or grinding vids, I've yet to view any really good ones that I can learn from. Most of the time in my head I'm just pointing out all the things they are flat out doing WRONG!
 
Keeping the Wrenches Together

This might fall into the only-matters-to-me type stuff, but a while back I mentioned keeping the Allen / hex keys for these grinders together so that they don't get lost I have done this on a bunch of grinders now, mostly using scraps of whatever tubing I could find. Rubber stuff is nice, 'cause it stretches to hold both the 4MM and 5MM. But hardware stores usually have the clear, vinyl stuff. Tried heating the tubing for the larger key, wrapping the smaller key in tape, etc., and even hot-melt glue (which mostly pushed to the center of the tubing - see bottom photo).

IMG_0458A.png
Finally found something that works good: the same sealant / adhesive I use for repairing chaps. Basically a 'Shoe-Goo' type material that spreads nice, fills in the gaps, and holds pretty well (middle photo) to the metal wrench and the vinyl tube.

IMG_0457.jpg

Philbert
 
Keeping the Wrenches Together

This might fall into the only-matters-to-me type stuff, but a while back I mentioned keeping the Allen / hex keys for these grinders together so that they don't get lost I have done this on a bunch of grinders now, mostly using scraps of whatever tubing I could find. Rubber stuff is nice, 'cause it stretches to hold both the 4MM and 5MM. But hardware stores usually have the clear, vinyl stuff. Tried heating the tubing for the larger key, wrapping the smaller key in tape, etc., and even hot-melt glue (which mostly pushed to the center of the tubing - see bottom photo).

View attachment 866531
Finally found something that works good: the same sealant / adhesive I use for repairing chaps. Basically a 'Shoe-Goo' type material that spreads nice, fills in the gaps, and holds pretty well (middle photo) to the metal wrench and the vinyl tube.

View attachment 866529

Philbert
Cool idea.
A small piece of wire twisted on the hose around the smaller one would work well too.
 
Northern Tool / Northern Hydraulic Grinder Reference

At the start of this thread I mentioned the NT / NH grinder tip threads. It was one of the first, popular clone grinders, which copied the Oregon / Tecomec style at a fraction of the price (and quality). Since then, I have occasionally had trouble finding the 'BIG' thread on those grinders (even though I posted in it), so I am adding it here for reference. Interesting to note that Northern Tool has cycled through several different versions of these 'clone' grinders since we first started seeing them 14 years ago! Some of the same issues, and tips may still apply to the current offerings.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fyi-northern-chainsaw-sharpener.39995/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/northern-hyd-grinder-making-it-work-pics.40844/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/attachments/tuning_chinese_chainsaw_sharpener-pdf.566900/

Philbert
 

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