55 Rancher

[monaco]

I have the opportunity to get this saw for free. I'm guessing it's a 1991 55 rancher.

The saw will run for a few minutes then die, but I'm not one to look a gift horse in the mouth.
I think it could be compression or a weak coil... Ideas?

Anything else I should know about this saw?

 

[cobey]

Rebuild the fuel system. ..
To start with
Check compression and do vac. And Pressure check

 

[Stihlbillie]

You suck

 

[monaco]

I know nothing about this saw except that it's old. Is there a way to tell it's age? on my other husky the label says "2000" but I think that's for the last time they revised the label. The saw is a lot newer than the label date.

Are these decent saws - is there like a desirable year or anything?

 

[cobey]

Most of the rancher saws were not
The favorites, but I don't know much
About earlier stuff. They all work
Well when running properly

 

[tpence2177]

I know nothing about this saw except that it's old. Is there a way to tell it's age? on my other husky the label says "2000" but I think that's for the last time they revised the label. The saw is a lot newer than the label date.

Are these decent saws - is there like a desirable year or anything?

I love my husqvarna 51 (it's non rancher little brother) I think the ranchers run 3/8 chains instead of the .325 like my 51. They are easy to work on, cheap to rebuild and have very abundant parts. Should serve you well. A lot better built than the 4 series husqvarna saws now a days. Had the 440 for a few weeks and took it back the build quality doesn't compare.

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[SliverPicker]

I bought one new in about 2002. It cut down, delimbed and cut into rounds 88 cords before it needed a new cylinder/piston. For 400 odd dollars I call that not bad. It's no power horse, but if you are a seasonal wood cutter it will work.

 

[tpence2177]

If you get it running fine I would bet that saw would be happier with a shorter bar too. I have a 18" on my 51 right now and it does fine, but the revs drop a little more than I would like sometimes. Thinking about swapping to a 16" on mine. Only like 2cc difference so I don't see that saw just loving a 20" bar

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[monaco]

If you get it running fine I would bet that saw would be happier with a shorter bar too. I have a 18" on my 51 right now and it does fine, but the revs drop a little more than I would like sometimes. Thinking about swapping to a 16" on mine. Only like 2cc difference so I don't see that saw just loving a 20" bar

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Thanks - I was wondering about that too.

 

[tpence2177]

Thanks - I was wondering about that too.

Yeah husqvarna gets a little optimistic on their bar sizes sometimes. They had an 18" on that 440 I had lol.

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[7sleeper]

Depending on your intention of the future of the saw, I would even consider, at that age, exchanging the crank shaft seal besides what has been mentioned above.

7

 

[monaco]

OK gents, I need a little help.
I bought a "tune-up kit" on ebay and installed everything. This included

• ignition coil
• spark plug
• fuel filter
• fuel line
• air filter

I put some gas in there and started it right up. I got a few strong revs out of it, then it died.

Things I checked:

• It has spark, I verified a visual spark with the plug pulled. I don't know if it's "weak" or strong" spark.
  
• it has gas (the line is clear and I can see it.) Pulling the plug verifies that gas is getting into the cylinder.
• The magneto is clean and holds up a screwdriver
• The muffler is clean and not clogged
• I checked the tank vent, and I can hear air hissing into the tank after a bunch of cranks.
• I've examined the chain brake (It's not installed on the power head) and I don't see electric contacts, so I'm assuming this old say has no electric brake.
• I don't have a compression gauge but it feels tight when cranking.

I crank and crank and cannot get it to fire even once. I'm baffled.

Any ideas?

 

[calebng15]

If it were mine, I take a look into the carb. Check your screen and inlet needle. Definitely wouldn't hurt to put a carb kit in, but you could probably check it out without one first.

Also, when you had the muffler off, did you take a look into the cylinder? What does the piston look like?

 

[monaco]

If it were mine, I take a look into the carb. Check your screen and inlet needle. Definitely wouldn't hurt to put a carb kit in, but you could probably check it out without one first.

Also, when you had the muffler off, did you take a look into the cylinder? What does the piston look like?

Thanks. Yes I looked at the piston from both the exhaust and carb side and everything looks really nice... like the saw was lightly used. At least I don't see lines - scoring... to my untrained eye.

Carb: I figure, what do I have to lose? I took it apart and looked at it, I saw no dirt or anything but shiny silver metal, but I'm not an expert. I wiped down the needle and got a touch of brown on the tissue I used. The fuel screen looked ok - at least I could see thru it. I sprayed it with engine degreaser for a bit.

No change though.

 

[RipRap]

I just went through a 55, it needed a piston and cylinder, went through the carb, reused the gaskets, it did need a new impulse line ($3+), located at the bottom of the cylinder beneath the carb intake boot.

Make sure you have a good spark. You can buy a spark tester for a couple dollars at Harbor Freight.

If you cranked and cranked and cranked, and it wouldn't fire, you may have flooded it. Take the plug out, turn the saw upside down to let out excess fuel, put the plug and wire back on, put the switch in the run position, hold the throttle wide open and pull until it starts. It may take 20+ pulls but it should start.

 

[procarbine2k1]

You can buy a new carburetor (aftermarket) for this saw, for not much more than a kit. I figure for a few extra bucks, you can't beat it.
I rebuilt a 55 not long ago, and used a farmertec carb with great results.

 

[calebng15]

Something else I would try, is see where your carb screws are sitting at. Just turn your screw till they are lightly seated, watching to see how much of a turn it takes. You will probably have to take off those limiter caps to do so.

If it is way off, I usually try it first at 1 turn out on each screw. Same for your idle LA screw, want to make sure it isn't screwed out and doing nothing.

Otherwise, I would pressure and vacuum test it next.

 

[calebng15]

I just went through a 55, it needed a piston and cylinder, went through the carb, reused the gaskets, it did need a new impulse line ($3+), located at the bottom of the cylinder beneath the carb intake boot.

Make sure you have a good spark. You can buy a spark tester for a couple dollars at Harbor Freight.

If you cranked and cranked and cranked, and it wouldn't fire, you may have flooded it. Take the plug out, turn the saw upside down to let out excess fuel, put the plug and wire back on, put the switch in the run position, hold the throttle wide open and pull until it starts. It may take 20+ pulls but it should start.

I'm not sayin that he didn't flood it, but if he took the carb off, it should be empty!

 

[monaco]

I'm not sayin that he didn't flood it, but if he took the carb off, it should be empty!

To that point - the carb was full of gas when I took it apart. I'm pretty sure it was flooded... but after I reassembled everything I should have gotten a fire, or so I'd think.

I didn't take out the plug and let it sit, turned over though. I'll do that.

 

[monaco]

I just went through a 55, it needed a piston and cylinder, went through the carb, reused the gaskets, it did need a new impulse line ($3+), located at the bottom of the cylinder beneath the carb intake boot.

Make sure you have a good spark. You can buy a spark tester for a couple dollars at Harbor Freight.

If you cranked and cranked and cranked, and it wouldn't fire, you may have flooded it. Take the plug out, turn the saw upside down to let out excess fuel, put the plug and wire back on, put the switch in the run position, hold the throttle wide open and pull until it starts. It may take 20+ pulls but it should start.

I took off the plastic piece between the carb and the cylinder, the rubber manifold and the little rubber gasket below it looked good. I didn't see any cracks in the plastic either. I'm pretty sure that's what you're referring to.