562xp Hesitation Question

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I took out my ported 2260 out yesterday afternoon to run it WOT in wood for 3-5 minutes to see if the AT would adjust. I'm not having as big of issues as some of the other guys on here, but it usually boggs a little coming of more than a 10 second idle. It was @30° out and after running for @4. minutes in wood wot it still would hesitate a little after it idles. Guess you can add my name to the list of people that got a new.pro saw with a sh-- carb.
 
I took out my ported 2260 out yesterday afternoon to run it WOT in wood for 3-5 minutes to see if the AT would adjust. I'm not having as big of issues as some of the other guys on here, but it usually boggs a little coming of more than a 10 second idle. It was @30° out and after running for @4. minutes in wood wot it still would hesitate a little after it idles. Guess you can add my name to the list of people that got a new.pro saw with a sh-- carb.

My 562 did that for about the first tank after that it worked itself out and has been fine since


Sent from my Autotune Carb
 
I'm not sure.if modding these at saws helps perpetuate the carb issues. At least the ones with Zama carb.
 
let off of the throttle and the saw went back to idle at what sounded like 4000-5000 rpm. Interesting. Lets see how long it'll do this. Took most of a minute before it went back to normal idle. Hit the throttle for the next cut and it stumbled BAD, just like the old one. In fact, every time that I hit the throttle after idling, it would have the same huge hesitation if it didn't die. On one occasion, I sat it down to move some brush and it was idling just fine, then it died for no apparent reason. Had to use full choke to get it restarted. I did notice a puff of black smoke from time to time when it would hesitate coming off of idle, that sounds a little rich to me but it acted lean when it died idling. Does anybody know why the switch from EL44 to EL46 carbs? I've heard from several different sources that Husky is working on a fix,.

4-5000 rpm the clutch would be engaged, so most likely it was not that high rather a bit over 3000 rpm, till it transitioned back down. Normal in cold temperatures as the saws run leaner. When restarting, setting high idle didn't work?
The change to the EL46 was mainly to integrated a separate service plug, when the Zama part numbers are released we will know more.
Do you have the serial number of your old saw still?
 
4-5000 rpm the clutch would be engaged, so most likely it was not that high rather a bit over 3000 rpm, till it transitioned back down. Normal in cold temperatures as the saws run leaner. When restarting, setting high idle didn't work?
The change to the EL46 was mainly to integrated a separate service plug, when the Zama part numbers are released we will know more.
Do you have the serial number of your old saw still?


The clutch was engaged, chain spinning like crazy . It done that quite a few times. No, high idle didn't work for restarting it after it died idling. 2012 1800064
 
The clutch was engaged, chain spinning like crazy . It done that quite a few times. No, high idle didn't work for restarting it after it died idling. 2012 1800064

Whats the build date on your replacement saw?
 
Junkfxr it looks like you have already posted it earlier, is this "ser.#2012 2200xxx" correct on what you have now? If so it looks like your first saw was 4weeks into the changeover to the EL46, your replacement was built 4 weeks after your first one. Both fairly early in EL46 switchover builds compared to today. The replacement may have been new off the shelf but its build date still over a year old.
Wondering if anyone like TK or Mitch has kept note of the build dates on the Saws they have been working on trying to fix, on the EL46 equipped saws? Maybe there was a bad batch in the beginning that the build #'s are close or is it just more random chance of happening?
 
As posted on the other site...
I do applaud all efforts going into figuring this thing out. I never meant to demonize the saw in the least bit as I like it very much. It was a bit disconcerting at first hearing and feeling the saw adjust on-the-fly, in the cut, but knowing what it's doing is pretty cool. I had heard of a few people having similar issues as mine but figured that having bought 12 saws in my life, and this being the first with an issue, my odds have been uncannily good, relative to my usual acquaintance with Murphy and his law(s). I have no where near the level of 2-stroke knowledge of TK, Randy, Terry, Brad, Stumpy, Mike lee, etc, but am a gear-head at heart, so I like having at least a rudimentary understanding of the internal workings of my equipment. The posts I have made in this thread and the one one, were to try to express my unique observances and see if it helped those, smarter than me, to do some Monday morning quarterbacking. I was a bit pissed for a while, but I understand that it's likely a simple problem. Without having access to a manual to guide my troubleshooting (absent experience) this seemed to be the second best alternative.

FWIW, I also had a 6.0 Powerstroke for a bit (knowing full good and well the potential issues thereof). What I did not know at the time of purchase however, was that the oil and egr coolers were BOTH blown (dealer has since been sued out of business, by others, for similar shady dealings). There were other minor issues, but coupled with the aforementioned, it was traded in on a Hyundai for the wife as a financial decision. Would I have anther 6.0? Sure, assuming the injectors/HPOP/VGT turbo were all healthy and that someone else had already sunk the $$$ into the studs, egr delete, external oil cooler and FICM upgrade. It's a lengthy list (much worse than a bad carb, air leak or A/T module) but that's what it takes to have a healthy truck from a realistic preventative maintenance perspective. I am NOT directly comparing the 562 directly to the 6.0, but comparisons can, (I think) fairly be drawn. Hell the S&W M&P autos had teething problems. I like the 1911 better, but it also had a 75+ year head-start in R&D and still isn't necessarily more reliable...

Thanks again to all and Terry, I will be in touch.
 
The change to the EL46 was mainly to integrated a separate service plug, when the Zama part numbers are released we will know more.
Do you have the serial number of your old saw still?

Mainly to integrate an easy access service plug but other changes definitely included a new main nozzle as well as throttle plate. Those are the obvious changes, who knows what else. Not sure why they made the extra changes..... But yes, the response from the top was to allow easier access to plugging in for diagnostics.
 
The 562 ain't the only saw that ever was equipped with a funky running carb. But the 562 does get the most exposure from it.
 
Yeah...well... how does one know if they have a NEW EL46? Just curious and purely showing ignorance here.

I think that a new carb would come in a Zama box....... lol

Every "old" carb ain't bad......if the saw runs good....no worries.
 
By new carb, we mean by a new one in the box on the shelf. Not new as in updated or changed. An EL46 is an EL46. Any carb in a box on the shelf is a new carb.
 
I started mine last night in the garage when I got home. Snappy throttle, no dying, beautiful idling, all while ice cold. I think it runs better than when I first got the saw with 2 tanks of fuel through it.Horray EL44!
 
my dealer has 562xp's with serial starting 2013xxxxxxxx as well as even fresher 526xp's arriving on a palette this week .... Is there any chance these 2013 and even newer 562's with EL46's are not the lemon carbs?
 
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