562XP needs repair, any recommendations NW Oregon?

[Clark10]

I thought I would ask on here as I don't have many great shops around me that will repair my saw. I'm looking for a recommendation for a person who can repair my 562XP with a damaged piston. Most likely it needs a new top end with gaskets and all. I have the saw torn down but hesitate to take all the time to learn what top end is best, order, and learn to repair given I don't have the software to check the tune to finish the job. Talk me into doing it myself with advice on where to get parts and software etc. Or, recommend someone local or that I can send it to to fix it. Both would be appreciated.

Location: Near Hillsboro, Oregon

Thanks!

 

[Andyshine77]

The saw looks hardly used. I see what looks like sealant holding the gasket to the cylinder, has the saw been ported or worked on before? You will also have to find out what caused the failure. Are all the bearings in tact and smooth? are both piston pin clips still in place? Almost looks like the ring snagged in the exhaust port. You won't need to mess with the software as long as you use the same coil and module that on the saw.

 

[sean donato]

Gonna give you a fair warning, you'll have half of what a new saw costs, between a oem top end, gasket set, bearings and seals. I just rebuilt my old 562xp and I have somewhere around $300.00 ish into it. With the case splitter, and bearing installer cost I was over half the cost of a new saw. (Tools dont count imo though) There are a few aftermarket top ends available. I cant comment on quality. The clutch side bearing does like to give up the ghost at times. Not a terribly hard saw to work on.

 

[Clark10]

The saw looks hardly used. I see what looks like sealant holding the gasket to the cylinder, has the saw been ported or worked on before? You will also have to find out what caused the failure. Are all the bearings in tact and smooth? are both piston pin clips still in place? Almost looks like the ring snagged in the exhaust port. You won't need to mess with the software as long as you use the same coil and module that on the saw.

Thanks for the thoughts about the software. Added a few more pictures and took out the one of the saw as it was of the replacement saw. Everything is stock. Can't answer the other two questions as I'm not that familiar with the parts. It was just the piston.

 

[Clark10]

Gonna give you a fair warning, you'll have half of what a new saw costs, between a oem top end, gasket set, bearings and seals. I just rebuilt my old 562xp and I have somewhere around $300.00 ish into it. With the case splitter, and bearing installer cost I was over half the cost of a new saw. (Tools dont count imo though) There are a few aftermarket top ends available. I cant comment on quality. The clutch side bearing does like to give up the ghost at times. Not a terribly hard saw to work on.

Thanks for sharing your experience and advice. I went ahead and bought a new 562XP a while back. I just hate to see this one sit on the bench as I enjoy the saws. Maybe I'll just give it up.

Thanks

 

[Andyshine77]

Looks like the piston ring pin came out and made it's way to the combustion chamber. Check the crank, rod and piston for radial play to make sure the bottom end is ok. If the bottom end is gone, repair is definitely not logical, unless you just want to learn how to rebuild these saws. From the little I can see the bottom end looks ok.

 

[John Lyngdal]

Almost looks like the ring snagged in the exhaust port.

I agree with that observation , as one end of the piston ring has been snapped off. Now the question is why.
At saw shop labor rates, this might not be worth the repair charges. However, it would be feasible as a home repair job as an OEM piston, cylinder, and gasket set can be purchased for about $150.
All this assuming that the bottom end hasn't been damaged.

 

[Clark10]

The bottom end is good as far as I can tell.

 

[sean donato]

If the bottom end is good, the top end and seals. Check over the intake boot for cracks and the like. Put it back together... I really like these saws as well. If I didnt rebuild mine, I would have bought another.

 

[Andyshine77]

A new top end is worth a shot. With any rebuild with a failure like this you wand to vac//pressure test the saw before you run it, that will save you from wasting the new cylinder.

 

[Ronie]

I have a new OEM 555 cylinder and piston, I think if you just put your transfer covers on it it would then be a 562 cylinder. $100 shipped

 

[Clark10]

I'm going to give fixing it on my own a try. I've ordered a kit from Simonion's Saw Service through eBay. Thanks for the tip on vac/pressure testing and the offer of parts buys. I have replaced a cylinder and piston on my old 55 so not my first rodeo but it might as well be for how much I remember. ;-)

I appreciate and tips and advice. Off to find out what I need to pressure test it.

Thanks!

 

[nwhunter]

You can also buy a complete oem crankcase for these for around $130. I rebuilt a one last year and went that route. Along with an oem piston and cylinder.

 

[vtfireman85]

Keep is posted, interested in the cause of the failure as i have one too.

 

[Clark10]

Keep is posted, interested in the cause of the failure as i have one too.

Roger that. I have work to do right now so this will probably be a winter project when I can't get into the woods, or prefer not to,. ;-)

 

[Clark10]

11/11/2020 Update:

Had some time to spend in the shop. So far I've replaced the cylinder and piston with new OEM. I have spent way to much time online researching how to do the job. I thought I had the perfect video of how to tear it down step by step but must have deleted the bookmark.:-(

I have a couple of questions if any of you have time to help.

1. I have the machine back together with the gasket only between top and bottom. Should I use Permatex red gasket seal in addition? Will the stock gasket between the top and bottom end be adequate? Operative concept is that I have already put it back to together.
   
2. I was looking at my other 562XP to help with making sure where things went. I noticed that there are three sets of nipples for or around the the fuel tank ventilation. I made a fuel line hack as I assumed I was missing a hose line between two exposed nipples. When I looked at the IPL Update from Husqvarna and saw the following (see parts diagram attached.) Do I have the option of leaving it open and I didn't loose a line somewhere?
3. I have two items left over after putting it all together. I was wondering if any of you know if I missed something? I have looked over the parts diagrams and don't really seem to see them. It may be that they got swept up into my tray and come from somewhere else. See attached images.
4. I never did get the compression or bottom end seals checked beyond a wiggle and visual inspection. If I hold the saw (no bar) by pull cord handle it will drop slowly down and not hang by the pull cord (I was told that this tells me the compression is bad). Does this on both saws though so maybe they are both poor on compression? Should take it into a shop to have this checked before running it?

I'll wait until I have responses before I start it up. Thanks for the encouragement and support.

 

[Sprinter]

The early models (mine) had the fuel tank vent run up into the filter housing. I believe it was deleted on later models.
That allen-head screw and sleeve look like upper muffler mount fasteners.
Silicone is not recommended for use with gasoline. I use their Moto-Seal product (yours).
As for compression, mine slowly lower to the floor also, as does my MD250.
Plus, I can't get a good reading on my compression tester due to having to use a 10mm adapter.

 

[Clark10]

The early models (mine) had the fuel tank vent run up into the filter housing. I believe it was deleted on later models.
That allen-head screw and sleeve look like upper muffler mount fasteners.
Silicone is not recommended for use with gasoline. I use their Moto-Seal product (yours).
As for compression, mine slowly lower to the floor also, as does my MD250.
Plus, I can't get a good reading on my compression tester due to having to use a 10mm adapter.

Thanks for the reply. I think that it might be that there never was a third hose. I'll take it off again and look closely to see if there are actually holes on the connector points.

I'm going to give it a whirl this week and see if the stock gasket and the new top end work.

Thanks