60cc chainsaw choice

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If echo is anything in your area like it is in mine, it's hard to find a dealer who wants to deal with the saws, let alone stocks much for them. Good saws, but heavy and lack power vs their competitors. I basically reccomened them to people I know want to save a buck and arnt concerned with power to weight ratios/speed of the cut. They are like 80's saw tech for the most part. Very reliable theough. My younger brother still has a little 30cc echo my grandfather bought new in the late 70's. Always starts and runs well. Neighbor has a 620p, I've never been impressed with its power vs weight, but it also give very little issues. Just starts and runs.
I agree with above, 90+ cc for milling. It's a miserable hard thing on a saw. Long passes at wot with (typically) very long bars. I have a 40" bar for the 394xp on a 36" Alaskan mill. It's real work for the saw and operator. If I picked it up again, I'd get a 084, 088/880 or a 3120xp, well anything over 100cc.
A Husqvarna 562xp power head weighs 13.4 lbs. The Echo CS620P weighs 13.7 lbs, or 5 ounces heavier. The 562xp makes 4.7hp, the CS620P 4.5hp. With a 24" bar the Husqvarna costs $850. The Echo is $610 with a 24" bar. A $tihl MS 362 goes for around $900 with similar specifications to the 562xp. Obviously there is a reason for most pros to be running Stihls. I believe a professional needing a 60cc saw every day could make the case. For the rest of us, are the Husqvarnas and Stihls worth the premium?
 
A Husqvarna 562xp power head weighs 13.4 lbs. The Echo CS620P weighs 13.7 lbs, or 5 ounces heavier. The 562xp makes 4.7hp, the CS620P 4.5hp. With a 24" bar the Husqvarna costs $850. The Echo is $610 with a 24" bar. A $tihl MS 362 goes for around $900 with similar specifications to the 562xp. Obviously there is a reason for most pros to be running Stihls. I believe a professional needing a 60cc saw every day could make the case. For the rest of us, are the Husqvarnas and Stihls worth the
Go run them side by side and you'll clearly see where the 562xp shines over either the 620p or the ms362. It's your money, spend it how you like. But don't compare specs on paper when you clearly haven't run all these saws. I ran a 562xp next to a 620p for almost 10 years in my neighbors woods. He doesn't own a 620p anymore, it got traded in for a 562xp.
 
Well, for cutting firewood, a nearly 40-year-old 266xp is a fun saw, and durable, in the 60 cc (sort of) range.
I am a big fan of husqvarna 266, I got about four and they never let me down. Ok they are old but so am I, they are easy to maintain and from what i see they hold their value.
 
Once again I am overwhelmed with the advice all of you have offered. Husky Man, that's an impressive system for cutting slabs. At first, I thought the bar was photoshopped because it was so long. I will set aside my milling aspirations for the moment to focus on the daily driver saw.

I have a 60v 16" saw for limbing and such, so a 60cc gas would be a good companion for my circumstances. I hear a lot of love for the 620p and 562. No real hate for the 362, but it has a small community of users it would seem. The 562 appears to be on the cusp of being replaced by the 562 mark II, and perhaps this is why I can't get a price on the 562 from my local retailer, Lowes (sigh). The 620 retails for $600 and change, and the 562 is at $850 or so, MSRP anyway. I'm sure the mark II will see a reduction in price LOL, so I'm probably looking at the Echo.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
Go run them side by side and you'll clearly see where the 562xp shines over either the 620p or the ms362. It's your money, spend it how you like. But don't compare specs on paper when you clearly haven't run all these saws. I ran a 562xp next to a 620p for almost 10 years in my neighbors woods. He doesn't own a 620p anymore, it got traded in for a 562xp.
Sean,
The point is value! Echo saws provide far better value, look at the specs & prices. Sure, there are better saws but why spend hundreds extra for a label and a little more performance on something that is rarely run more than 6-8 hours a week?
 
Once again I am overwhelmed with the advice all of you have offered. Husky Man, that's an impressive system for cutting slabs. At first, I thought the bar was photoshopped because it was so long. I will set aside my milling aspirations for the moment to focus on the daily driver saw.

I have a 60v 16" saw for limbing and such, so a 60cc gas would be a good companion for my circumstances. I hear a lot of love for the 620p and 562. No real hate for the 362, but it has a small community of users it would seem. The 562 appears to be on the cusp of being replaced by the 562 mark II, and perhaps this is why I can't get a price on the 562 from my local retailer, Lowes (sigh). The 620 retails for $600 and change, and the 562 is at $850 or so, MSRP anyway. I'm sure the mark II will see a reduction in price LOL, so I'm probably looking at the Echo.

Thanks again for all the help!
There is a dealer in my CR group that is running a 20% off sale using his 4th July code. Dealer is in WI and ships.


This is regular price $549.99 Powerhead Only - No Bar or Chain Included
20" $599.99 70dl
24"$609.99 81dl
27" really 28" $619.99 93dl
 
There is a dealer in my CR group that is running a 20% off sale using his 4th July code. Dealer is in WI and ships.


This is regular price $549.99 Powerhead Only - No Bar or Chain Included
20" $599.99 70dl
24"$609.99 81dl
27" really 28" $619.99 93dl
While I don't know what CR means I got such email. The sale ends today July 2 according to the email. It is for any order over $100, the discount with the code that is.
 
Sean,
The point is value! Echo saws provide far better value, look at the specs & prices. Sure, there are better saws but why spend hundreds extra for a label and a little more performance on something that is rarely run more than 6-8 hours a week?
I will give you a couple of examples of why to spend more, exactly how much more depends on where and when you buy.

A) vibration level

B) the ability to get into .325 chain and not run a 9 tooth like would be necessary with an 60cc Echo.

You did not put a location but if you go the Paul Bunyan show on the first day, early before they run out there have in the past been steep discounts on husqvarna models.
 
Sean,
The point is value! Echo saws provide far better value, look at the specs & prices. Sure, there are better saws but why spend hundreds extra for a label and a little more performance on something that is rarely run more than 6-8 hours a week?
The main one for me, I stated already. Any echo saw goes down your sitting waiting on parts. We have quite a few echo dealers, but they are more worried about your weedwhacker then the chainsaw they sold you. Which I don't blame them, they sell way more other equipment.
My second reason is quite simple, I don't like how they feel in hand, quite clunky, save for the smaller versions that I don't have use for. I don't care for their av or filtration, although some of the newer models seem to have improved in those aspects.
I don't knock echo, they are great saws, priced decently and of good quality.
 
The main one for me, I stated already. Any echo saw goes down your sitting waiting on parts. We have quite a few echo dealers, but they are more worried about your weedwhacker then the chainsaw they sold you. Which I don't blame them, they sell way more other equipment.
My second reason is quite simple, I don't like how they feel in hand, quite clunky, save for the smaller versions that I don't have use for. I don't care for their av or filtration, although some of the newer models seem to have improved in those aspects.
I don't knock echo, they are great saws, priced decently and of good quality.
But certain models have better air filtration than any Stihl or Husqy… better meaning, keeping the most fines out of intake. Namely the CS400, CS680, and the new 7310.

But some have very poor designs.
 
But certain models have better air filtration than any Stihl or Husqy… better meaning, keeping the most fines out of intake. Namely the CS400, CS680, and the new 7310.

But some have very poor designs.
they have comparable air filtration to current husqy and stihl, on some models. Husqy has had pretty good air filtration sinc the 3 series and continued to improve the filters. Really this last generation of filters has been very good. With stihls latest release of updated filters they have finally made a decent product. I've been very impressed with the filter on my ms400cm. Fortunately most current models have been getting updated as well. Although I'd hazard no saws ever died from fines getting through. Plenty of old saws with little more then wire mesh for fikters lived hard lives for years. Nice we can nit pick these days.
 
Echo vs Husqvarna vs Stihl - here's my take. I've never made a living with a chainsaw. I use them to cut firewood for my house and to maintain the property that I hunt and cut on. In recent years, I've started doing volunteer work for a local disaster relief organization as well. Having said that, I HAVE made a living with power tools and hand tools. I put myself through college working on construction crews. While in college, I did my work-study in the schools machine shop. Once I had enough hours and experience under my belt, I started working as a machinist instead of doing construction. After getting my engineering degree, I spent over a decade doing a LOT of equipment repair working for automotive suppliers. What I've learned is this. When it comes to tools, harbor freight tools will frequently do the job just fine, but the name brand stuff is SO much more comfortable and efficient to use that they make the job go a lot more smoothly. I've noticed the same thing on chainsaws. Regardless of your application, if you're only running a saw for one or two hours at a time, almost any saw will do just fine. Regardless of how frequently you run them, if you run them all day long, a "good" saw makes the day go a lot better. If you rarely use more than one tank of fuel at a time, it's perfectly fine to save money and buy a "home owner" grade. If you're running the saw all day long, spend the money and buy a "professional" grade saw of your favorite color combination. The saw should be sized correctly for the bulk of the work you're going to do, and you want something that has one of the best power to weight ratio's in its class, and good AV. As to which brand, its' largely irrelevant. You need an actual dealer near buy to get parts from over the years or do BASIC maintenance if you're not going to do it yourself. Other than that, its a draw. Accross the board, I would tend to stay away from "brand new" models because they are prone to have a few glitches when they hit the market.
 
Echo vs Husqvarna vs Stihl - here's my take. I've never made a living with a chainsaw. I use them to cut firewood for my house and to maintain the property that I hunt and cut on. In recent years, I've started doing volunteer work for a local disaster relief organization as well. Having said that, I HAVE made a living with power tools and hand tools. I put myself through college working on construction crews. While in college, I did my work-study in the schools machine shop. Once I had enough hours and experience under my belt, I started working as a machinist instead of doing construction. After getting my engineering degree, I spent over a decade doing a LOT of equipment repair working for automotive suppliers. What I've learned is this. When it comes to tools, harbor freight tools will frequently do the job just fine, but the name brand stuff is SO much more comfortable and efficient to use that they make the job go a lot more smoothly. I've noticed the same thing on chainsaws. Regardless of your application, if you're only running a saw for one or two hours at a time, almost any saw will do just fine. Regardless of how frequently you run them, if you run them all day long, a "good" saw makes the day go a lot better. If you rarely use more than one tank of fuel at a time, it's perfectly fine to save money and buy a "home owner" grade. If you're running the saw all day long, spend the money and buy a "professional" grade saw of your favorite color combination. The saw should be sized correctly for the bulk of the work you're going to do, and you want something that has one of the best power to weight ratio's in its class, and good AV. As to which brand, its' largely irrelevant. You need an actual dealer near buy to get parts from over the years or do BASIC maintenance if you're not going to do it yourself. Other than that, its a draw. Accross the board, I would tend to stay away from "brand new" models because they are prone to have a few glitches when they hit the market.
Well said!
 
You're in Iowa and want to mill slabs with a 28" (understanding the cut width loss of say an alaskan mill on that bar?).

Get a good 50cc and a 9x cc saw. 550xp and a 592xp, 395xp, 661, etc.
 
Hello, I am looking for a 60cc chainsaw, give or take. Or I think I am. I do everything, occassionally. I'd like to cut slabs when the wood is available, probably with a 28" bar, and firewood cutting and general life in the country with a 20" or so bar.

I don't need the most powerful saw, I need a saw that will start easily and last a decade or better with occassional use.

The Echo 620 is appealing, as i have a weed whip and blower from them that have been trouble free.

The husky 562 comes in at a 50% premium, is it worth it?

The stihl 362 looks to be the competitor in this class, priced with the husky. I had a 180 that died because of the choke lever issue, so im not feeling warmly towards stihl. Sure, that was a homeowner saw, but the mechanism of failure was off-putting.

What are your thoughts? And thanks for the help!

Jim, in Iowa
Husqvarna 460 the best choice ever
 
The Echo CS-620p has arrived. She's a beast, from my homeowner perspective. I've got 6 or 7 tanks through it, so it should be broken in. I bought a 28" and a 20" bar. I started with the 28" bar, and have enjoyed bucking while standing up. I experimented with slabbing. The biggest issue I had was with the tip wanting to kick back against the far side of the cut. I'll address this by angling the saw back a bit so that I'm making more of a ripping cut. I will try again with a skip tooth chain to see how that goes. It's definitely not the saw to slab with for large or routine projects, as has been suggested throughout the thread, but this will work for my limited project.

The manual suggested not touching the carb until after the 2nd tank. The saw had a different sound through the 2nd tank of gas, so I guess there's the break-in period. I still haven't touched the carb, mostly because I'd like the saw to continue to run.
 
Yeah; based on my experience... I had a 15amp electric that I milled some real small stuff with (<10" diameter)... and while it worked... it was BRUTALLY slow and the saw burned up pretty fast.

I've got a 60cc saw... and I definitely wouldn't want to try milling with it or putting a 28" bar on it... Think it's got a 20 on it, maybe a 22... and even that feels like all it should pull when I've got it buried in wood.

It's not the newest saw so a modern 60cc probably puts it to shame... but it's so far off feeling like a capable milling saw; I'd say a monster 72cc would be the bare minimum I'd ever consider for milling.... and frankly; 90cc is probably a more realistic minimum.

I mean if you're milling stuff under 12" diameter; sure it'll work (the electric saw was ~= to a 40cc in power)... but if you decide to keep milling after this small project you mention; gotta decide how much is your time, back, and sanity worth.


Google is saying 24" is max recommended bar for the saw you bought; though it officially supports up to 27"; just FYI.
 

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