660 w/8 pin?

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Joesell

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I've seen some posts about changing to an 8 pin to increase the chain speed when cutting with a smaller bar.
Anyone tried a 660 with a 8 pin on a 25" bar?
 
Ported 660, 25"/8 and 36"/7 both 3/8, works well for me in real hard wood
 
The wood you're cutting and the tune of your saw determine your outcome. I used that bar with full comp chain and 8 in fir and it kept the rpm down below max power just a little. But I'm sure gas consumption would have been less.
 
The saw gets here monday. I have a DP muffler cover coming monday or tue. I ordered an 8 pin this morning to try it out.

I'm gonna do a MM as soon as it gets here. Does the DP muffler need to be opened up more? Or is it good like it is?
 
I run my 064 with an 8pin, full comp 3/8 .050 25" in red oak. It rips and always impresses the guys I cut with.
 
The saw gets here monday. I have a DP muffler cover coming monday or tue. I ordered an 8 pin this morning to try it out.

I'm gonna do a MM as soon as it gets here. Does the DP muffler need to be opened up more? Or is it good like it is?
Someone chime in on this please.

Also, what about a 28" with 8?
 
DP is fine in stock form for an unported saw.

If you're burying that 28 in big hardwood, it may bog a little, but if you let it fall through the cut on its own weight, without pushing, it should stay in the power band.
 
It doesn't hurt to try, rims are cheap, and the outcome depends on several different factors....
mine came stock with a 25" bar and 8t sprocket...in '92
I've tried it with a 32" bar/8t and it still cuts fine, full comp or full skip. Frankly, I didn't notice that much of a difference between the two sprockets with a 32. I prefer full skip for 32" or larger, however...easier/quicker to sharpen.
but...for cutting small stuff the 8t is the way to go...much, mush faster for taking a tree apart. I don't have the upper body strength anymore so use my ported 16" 346xp for the little stuff now.
 
mine came stock with a 25" bar and 8t sprocket...in '92
I've tried it with a 32" bar/8t and it still cuts fine, full comp or full skip. Frankly, I didn't notice that much of a difference between the two sprockets with a 32. I prefer full skip for 32" or larger, however...easier/quicker to sharpen.
but...for cutting small stuff the 8t is the way to go...much, mush faster for taking a tree apart. I don't have the upper body strength anymore so use my ported 16" 346xp for the little stuff now.


o_O That was an interesting statement - you have the strength to run an 066 with a 32", but not to run a 346xp with a 16"? :confused:

:givebeer:
 
Niko, I think you misinterpreted his typo.

"..... anymore so I use my........ "
 
Niko, I think you misinterpreted his typo.

"..... anymore so I use my........ "

Yes, he misinterpreted his statement. It is crystal clear to me what he was trying to say; and I agree totally. My 660 wears a 36" bar and nothing less. If I don't need a 36" bar I am grabbing a much lighter saw. The 660 is too heavy to buck up smaller stuff for any extended period of time (call me a weakling I guess). A 25" bar is ported 60cc or stock/ported 70cc territory IMO. I guess if your only saw is a 660 then you have no choice.
 
It's much easier on the saw with a 7 pin. Unless im running a 25" I always use a 7 and mines ported. I only use the 660 with bars over 28" and then I only use it when I have to. 441 with a 28 is much easier on the back.
 

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