660vs395

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I find on the old style stihl caps (including my ms660), if you never over tighten the cap(I just hand tighten almost as tight as I can get it with my fingers) they dont need a tool to loosen them. Once somebody overtightens one it seems the fit changes and they have to be tightened more and then you need the scrench. I"ve replaced overtightned gaskets and it seemed to retain the fit. The Huskies I've been around for awhile seem to start leaking around the fuel cap eventually then it takes an oversize o ring to get a seal and it makes it hard to tighten and remove the cap. Is the 395 differant then the 346?
 
I find on the old style stihl caps (including my ms660), if you never over tighten the cap(I just hand tighten almost as tight as I can get it with my fingers) they dont need a tool to loosen them. Once somebody overtightens one it seems the fit changes and they have to be tightened more and then you need the scrench. I"ve replaced overtightned gaskets and it seemed to retain the fit. The Huskies I've been around for awhile seem to start leaking around the fuel cap eventually then it takes an oversize o ring to get a seal and it makes it hard to tighten and remove the cap. Is the 395 differant then the 346?

Yep,,,, finger tight will do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:rockn:
 
I finger tighten them initially,but the oil cap on the 660 ends up getting so tight that I still have to break out the wrench.
 
I find on the old style stihl caps (including my ms660), if you never over tighten the cap(I just hand tighten almost as tight as I can get it with my fingers) they dont need a tool to loosen them. Once somebody overtightens one it seems the fit changes and they have to be tightened more and then you need the scrench. I"ve replaced overtightned gaskets and it seemed to retain the fit. The Huskies I've been around for awhile seem to start leaking around the fuel cap eventually then it takes an oversize o ring to get a seal and it makes it hard to tighten and remove the cap. Is the 395 differant then the 346?

Unfortuneately, my 359 leaks at the gas cap as well. I bought the newer style cap to see if it was any better and leaked almost as much over night. Did you just buy a thicker o-ring at the hardware store?
 
My 066 has had more of a problem seeping at the fuel cap than my 395. I never tighten with a wrench, because that really makes them leak.

My 066 has a little more midrange grunt, but during normal cutting my 395 and 066 cut about even. I prefer running the 395 because it is two worlds smoother, although it is much heavier for sure.

Both of mine are pretty thirsty, but they are usually pulling a long bar.
 
I use the wrenh; mine never leak... there is something between loose finger tight and wrench breaking tight... The washer is only 50 cents anyhow..
 
I use the wrenh; mine never leak... there is something between loose finger tight and wrench breaking tight... The washer is only 50 cents anyhow..


In the past I"ve asked dealers about a replacent washer for the fuel cap for my 066, and I have been told Stihl didn't make one. So everynow and then I buy a new $6. cap. Now that I know they make them, I'll add that to my list of things to get at a real dealer.
 
I finger tighten them initially,but the oil cap on the 660 ends up getting so tight that I still have to break out the wrench.

My 066 is not too bad that way, but my 7900's get so tight on their own that it is actually kind of annoying. I've had them get so tight that I've used a crescent wrench to save my thumbs. The cap on the 7900 looks like it is designed for a wrench of some sort, but for the life of me I can't see how to use one on it except to put a bar right in the middle slot, which would probably break the cap.

Burnt the carp out of my knuckle ONCE because the oil cap was so tight and so close to the muffler.
 
When I bought my 394 used, from orig. owner, it leaked a little oil & gas unless you really cranked down on the cap. Got the new caps, and you have to really crank down on them to get them to seal. I keep a scrench with me, but you have to use the flat screwdriver side; on non-stihl (thinner screwdriver blade) screnches, you can pretty easily mangle the groove.
My $.02
 
Just place the scrench into the slot. on the 7900

been doing it to mine since it was new. Everytime I remove the cap.It does not flex enough to even make me worry about breaking a tab off
 
I would rather deal with the screw on Stihl caps than the new twist-n-lock caps anyday....I hate those things...Are we really getting so lazy that we can't pull out a saw wrench to tighten or unscrew the gas cap...To mention if that thing breaks,and that's the only saw you brought with you....You're done for the day.
 
I keep a set of spares for the MS series in tha tool box!!!

I would rather deal with the screw on Stihl caps than the new twist-n-lock caps anyday....I hate those things...Are we really getting so lazy that we can't pull out a saw wrench to tighten or unscrew the gas cap...To mention if that thing breaks,and that's the only saw you brought with you....You're done for the day.

Yes sir, dont leave Home without them :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
 
he myth is out of the box the Stihl is slower than a Husky cc for cc. However the myth also claims the Husky doesn't gain much as it breaks in, its about as good as its ever gonna be out of the box. The myth also claims the Stihl does gain alot after its broke in. All that said after 5 full gallons of fuel have been run through those saws run em together again. I've been curious for years whether the myth is true or false. Do me a favor and find out, you have the saws to prove it one way or the other.
Sounds like bull shat to me. Both use Mahle cylinders and pistons so the break in times for each should be similar..
 
Both use Mahle cylinders and pistons so the break in times for each should be similar..

I can't explain it, but break in times for various saws really aren't all that consistant. Just looking at Husky, the 357 seems to really wake up after 5 to 10 tanks, while the 372's all just rip right out of the box.
 
So, it looks like we have a new "King"?, doesn't it?

Of the 395's I bought,one I have been using for lowering big stumps before we grind them,and the other has been has been designated as my "lucky" falling saw...I've only had that thing two months,and have made some miraculous drops with it....One included opening up a double gate on a chain link fence and dropping a 40 inch white pine through it....I was instantly attatched to the 395 when I first used it and so was one other guy that works for me.There is no doubt,there is more felt power from it.
 
Sounds like bull shat to me. Both use Mahle cylinders and pistons so the break in times for each should be similar..

Of course it does to you Ben, doesn't suprize me at all. Now are the tolerances the same in both Ben, hmmmmm. Other words in simple terms so you can understand more easily maybe one hole is tighter than the other,LOLOLOL
 

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